Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had an issue where when I was cruising for some distance my tune was running rich and fouling plugs. Around town was fine but any highway use it was playing up next day on cold start. I backed the map off only slightly on that fuel cell and it has fixed the problem. Just thought i would mention that sounds it could be the same

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Definitely a possibility, if I was to pull the plugs after a failed idle when I start it how could I tell if they are fouled easily?

Actually the only times the car idled well was when we first put the injectors in, then it went to shit, and then I changed the plugs before the tune and it was shit after that, then came good for a week then went shit again.

Maybe they have just fouled up badly.

Edited by Rolls

Is ur fuel pressure stable? Ie has the pump been rewired to battery voltage?

Is 02 feedback enabled?

If u have the software or consult keep a close eye on inj duty when idle is good and when idle is playing up. Let me know the readings

Fuel pump is new and rewired to battery voltage, O2 feedback is enabled as well, just need to borrow a laptop so I can run consult again.

Does anyone know what the "Fuel Dumper" is? as I did not get this part when I bought my fuel rail, is it a dampener of some sort? Perhaps this could be my issue.

70105224.png

Seems like a misfire when cold, cannot figure out why though, really need to get a wideband in the exhaust to see if it is going lean/rich or if it is super rich at idle fouling the plugs.

Bummer because I have neither a wideband, nor a nistune license.

Hey, that's awesome. The country I am in cannot be typed in spelled correctly, because it gets replaced with what you see in my post above. Just for the fun of it, the country I am in is bordered by Greece, Albania, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Armenia, with coasts on the Black, Adriatic and Agean Seas.

And in some respects it is the sphinter of the universe!! Although I don't mind it. Sphincters are not all bad.

Am trying to make the kiln burner here work properly. I designed it last year, installed in February, and it hasn't worked properly since. Has in fact made the whole plant worse. It's my fault and it's not my fault. Bloody plant has huge issues. Given the huge issues I should have called the whole thing off instead of proceding. But I let optimism strike me, went ahead with it, optimism bailed on the deal and left me with a handful of poo. The goat lovers are also not very able to handle the subtleties of a carefully written performance guarantee, and refuse to accept that given that the plant is poo, it is not entirely my fault that my burner made it smell worse.

Rolls my idle sounds very similar to yours.

I idle at around 1400-1500 when cold and it hunts randomly and sits there missing until warm.

Once warm idle drops to around 700 and them every now and then hunts but does not miss.

If you take it for a drive when cold

As you take your foot off and coast you can feel it missing.

All goes away when warm

Hmm this morning it was much much better, I didn't drive the car yesterday at all so it must have been completely stone cold, still did a slight miss for 3 seconds then come good for 3 seconds but it didn't want to stall, just went from 1300rpm to 1000-1100rpm.

Tonight it was back shit again wanting to stall from 1300 to 400rpm.

I have my laptop back so I will plug in consult and do a dump of injectors/afm etc vs rpm when its cold see if it is an ECU or mechanical problem, I personally think it is fouling the plugs up from possibly too rich an idle.

Is ur fuel pressure stable? Ie has the pump been rewired to battery voltage?

Is 02 feedback enabled?

If u have the software or consult keep a close eye on inj duty when idle is good and when idle is playing up. Let me know the readings

Ok did a log when cold, when at 1200rpm the duty cycle is 1-2 and pulse width is 2.2ms, when it stumbles duty is 1 and pulse width grows to 2.5ms all the way to 3ms when it starts missing badly, timing changes from 30 to 34 when stumbling, acc duty increases slightly.

Stab the throttle and it goes back to 1200 and duty at 2, pulse at 2.2ms, starts to stumble and go up to 2.8ms etc.

Would this be as simple as just changing the cold start enrichment at 20-30c so it is slightly less rich? I'm going to buy a license next month so will have a fiddle then.

So I am guessing the cold start is just simply too rich

Edited by Rolls

Its possible. Bust never assume its too rich without having a wideband to tell u afr.

The timing doesn't seem right. It should not be at 30 degree's at idle. That tells me ur tps may not be setup correctly. Try dropping the tps back a tad ie: if its at .5 try .46

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...