Madgts Go Boom

[Zane]

Ok, so after 16 years, 192,912 kms and it's fair share of abuse, MADGTS has finally spat the standard turbo. Not just the exhaust wheel (fantastic diving catch by the Cat) but it also shreaded the impeller. I may have contributed slightly by winding in a tad too much boost - 8psi to about 15psi on the std CPU - but that's all history now. What I do have is a few questions.

When the turbo went bang the car died. It did the normal puff of smoke out the exhaust but basically died straight away. After doing a quick plumbing check under the bonnet for any hoses or connectors that may have come loose (it did sound like a hose had let go) and under the car for any fluid loss, I cranked it over intending to limp it home. The car would not hold idle, in fact the only way to keep it running was to rapidly pump the accelerator but even then the revs would only just make 1500rpm - not enough power to move the car. So I rolled it into the gutter and walked back home (luckily only 300m) to ask the wife for a tow. Once home I gave everything the once over again but could not find a reason why the car would not idle. The turbo has now been removed but I fear that something else may have been damaged as I expected the car to still run minus boost.

What do you think? Could I have done more damage than just the turbo?

Also the turbo will need a steel wheel rebuild/highflow. Is there anyone able to do this in Sydney (Seven Hills/Blacktown/Castle Hill area prefered)? Or should I just send it to Hypergear in VIC as they seem to have the best price and get very good reviews?

Z

[The Mafia]

Compression and leak down test ASAP. Hopefully parts of the exhaust wheel didnt get sucked back into the engine.

Good luck anyway mate. Let us know how you went.

[34GeeTeeTee]

no good.... Probably pull the cooler piping off etc and check for metal pieces or shavings before starting it again? Just to be safe...... Pics of the turbo? (Not that it helps, i just want to see what it looks like )

[DVS JEZ]

Check that the intake from afm to turbo and the afm itself is ok

[Zane]

Will pull the FMIC before going much further and empty anything that may have been blown through. Already checked the piping and connectors for the rest of the inlet. No pictures of the turbo but I have a shot somewhere of the crap I emptied out of the cat. The AFM appears to be ok but I will give it a clean when I have everything ready to be bolted back on. Unfortunately I don't think I can run a compression test until the turbo is back as any cranking of the engine is likely to spew oil (and whatever is left of the coolant) everywhere.

So is there a reputable turbo place based in Sydney that can highflow my turbo? I'd rather save the transport cost of sending it to Victoria.

Z

[KiwiRS4T]

GCG is reputable but get a quote - you may end up sending it to Hypergear!

Do a compression test - just block off the oil supply line.

[KiwiRS4T]

GCG:117 Eldridge Rd

Condell Park NSW 2200, Australia

They Hi flowed a gtst turbo for me about 3 or 4 years ago - was $1850 then!

[Mitcho_7]

It's like $20 to post to hypergear and $20 or so back and $900 odd for the highflow compared to $1800 or so from gcg.

[34GeeTeeTee]

The high flow that was on my car came with a hefty $1900 bill, so the HG option sure sounds prefereable in terms of cost and judging by their thread the results posted in the dyno section etc......

[Mitcho_7]

I wouldn't expect quite as good of a result as the dynosheets in the hypergear thread as his test car has a fresh engine and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.

Having said that they will produce good numbers for the cost!

I would worry about making sure the engine is all good before thinking about buying a new turbo to stick on it.

[Manuel Kasko]

Keep in mind as well its not a simple chuck a highflow on it.

[Zane]

Will be sending the turbo to Hypergear in the next day or two. Seems that for the cost you can't go wrong.

I'm not chasing horsepower, to date it's been running std CPU, 8psi, around 165rwkw with FMIC, exhaust and suspension mods so any increase will be noticable.

I have a decent GTR fuel pump and an SAFC in a box somewhere so should be able to get somewhere around the 210-220rwkw before the std injectors max out.

All assuming there is nothing major wrong with the engine.

Z

[KiwiRS4T]

If your motor is ok sell the SAFC and get an ecu that will accept a Nistune chip and then tune to the limit of your afm and injectors.

[hypergear]

I wouldn't expect quite as good of a result as the dynosheets in the hypergear thread as his test car has a fresh engine and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.

The results I've posted from standard high flows are actually received from other customers. All the turbos are exactly the same how ever the results are bit of a mixed bag depending on various of factors.

After high flowing, contact Toshi for a ECU remap and get the best out of factory AFM and injectors, or just leave it on 10psi, which still makes a gain compare to a factory turbo.

[Mitcho_7]

The results I've posted from standard high flows are actually received from other customers. All the turbos are exactly the same how ever the results are bit of a mixed bag depending on various of factors.

I wasn't bagging your stuff stao, I'm happy with my turbo.

What I meant was don't look in the Hypergear thread at the dyno sheets and see that someone made 260+rwkw on standard highflow and expect the same number because it's all dependent upon individual setups.

[DaveO74]

I'm in the hills and have my old HG highflow in the shed if your interested, only done about 8000 k's

Made 235 kw on my old setup

[Zane]

Wish you would have posted this earlier today. I posted mine off about two hours ago.

Z

[Zane]

Just going through some old threads and noticed that I never posted an update. Better late than never.

Went with the HG rebuild/highflow option. Stao's service was A1 and the turbo was back in my hands in about a week (Syd-->Melb-->Syd).

The FMIC and plumbing was removed, cleaned, checked for damage, and reassembled. Throttle body also checked and cleaned. All good so far.

Engine was checked for any damage, plugs removed, visual inspection all ok. Looks like the FMIC caught all the busted compressor wheel bits.

Installation of the turbo and oil lines went as expected, left the heatshields off in case I had to go back in later. Removed the standard boost valve and replace the wastegate actuator with an R32 10psi unit.

Also stayed with the factory dump for now. Front pipe back is 3" - 3.25" - 3.5" and I have a 3" bell mouth dump/front to install later if required.

Inspected and cleaned the AFM - this would have been the reason for not being able to maintain idle.

Rechecked all fittings, filled coolant, replaced oil/filter. Rechecked all fittings again - to be sure.

Finished beer, crossed fingers, primed fuel pump and fired it up.

Kicked first go and ran a smooth idle.

That's pretty much it. I've been too busy/lazy to sort out the SAFC so the factory CPU is running 10psi on the standard pump and injectors. Feels stronger all through the rev range but there is a noticable lag (about 500rpm) before boost comes on strong. This was expected due to the highflow and would improve slightly if I install the bellmouth dump, install/tune the SAFC, and adjusted the timing a bit. It's nothing I can't live with.

MADGTS has returned to it's daily duties of getting the kids to school and me to work every day. Still as reliable as I could ever want.

Just kicked over 208,000kms and it's still the best car I've ever owned.

Cheers,

Z

[KiwiRS4T]

Good to hear!