Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol... didn't think of bending the roll. I shoved the two large stainless washers in there to clear the roll, and tightened it up. Seems OK. I'll have a look tomorrow and re-adjust if needed. Felt that the bolt had come through level to the nylock, plus a bit of locktite on it.

Thoughts Dale?

Alex, I think it's better if the bar end is in direct contact with the bracket.

A washer in between will allow the surfaces to fret against each other; rather than the bar biting hard into the chassis bracket for the maximum benefit.

You shouldn't need Loctite due to the Nyloc nut.

Dale, I'll be interested in one front brace please mate... for the V35. Will fit them perfectly so maybe also post this in the V section if you haven't already done so.

Also, I have some additional bracing on my car - front brace on there already - not OX though, OX mid brace and a couple of other braces that I will send you the dimensions and pics of so you can have a look at possibly making them up also ;)

Coupled with the Bilsteins explains why my car corners so well although I'm still interested in the rear brace you are drawing up.

Dale, I'll be interested in one front brace please mate... for the V35. Will fit them perfectly so maybe also post this in the V section if you haven't already done so.

Also, I have some additional bracing on my car - front brace on there already - not OX though, OX mid brace and a couple of other braces that I will send you the dimensions and pics of so you can have a look at possibly making them up also ;)

Coupled with the Bilsteins explains why my car corners so well although I'm still interested in the rear brace you are drawing up.

Got your PM mate; I'm going to have to look at those...

These will go on a sedan yeah, got BC's on the hardest setting possible and need more stiffness.

You boys wouldn't know where to get a front strut brace that fits over the top of coiloverss

These will go on a sedan yeah, got BC's on the hardest setting possible and need more stiffness.

You boys wouldn't know where to get a front strut brace that fits over the top of coiloverss

Do you have the V1 or BR coilovers? im guessing the V1s as the BR on most firm setting will probably break your back and crack the chassis lol

These will go on a sedan yeah, got BC's on the hardest setting possible and need more stiffness.

You boys wouldn't know where to get a front strut brace that fits over the top of coiloverss

Yes, the front one will fit a V35 sedan as will the mid OX brace (look for the group buy).

These will go on a sedan yeah, got BC's on the hardest setting possible and need more stiffness.

You boys wouldn't know where to get a front strut brace that fits over the top of coiloverss

check US ebay, there are lots of them

Installed mine this morning and all I can say is WOW!! my nm35 only has nismo s-tune and this chassis brace so far but the way the car turns into corners and the amount of flex that has gone is unbelieveable. Great mod. I didnt have any issues with that roll people are talking about. Dale you are the chassis god... No offence scotty.... For those who are humming and harring over this get on it and get some stiffness!!!!

Installed mine this morning and all I can say is WOW!! my nm35 only has nismo s-tune and this chassis brace so far but the way the car turns into corners and the amount of flex that has gone is unbelieveable. Great mod. I didnt have any issues with that roll people are talking about. Dale you are the chassis god... No offence scotty.... For those who are humming and harring over this get on it and get some stiffness!!!!

No offence taken, we knew this would work just not how well. I didn't have the time to put into manufacturing them so Dale picked up the sales. OX had already done the hard work. :)

I agree, best bang for buck mod you can do atm.

Great Mod. After trying out the handling "extensively" cost for benefit this is pretty much right up there with sway bars, if not a little better.

The ability to put it into some corners that I would have thought it would wash out into understeer, but then for it to stick and stay flat - outstanding.

Bravo Dale.

ps. Dale, your car handles. By the look in the mirror, I wasn't going to shake it!

Installed mine this morning and all I can say is WOW!! my nm35 only has nismo s-tune and this chassis brace so far but the way the car turns into corners and the amount of flex that has gone is unbelieveable. Great mod. I didnt have any issues with that roll people are talking about. Dale you are the chassis god... No offence scotty.... For those who are humming and harring over this get on it and get some stiffness!!!!

Hey Josh, Glad you like it mate; I must say I was pretty surprised when I fitted it to my car too. As people are finding out; it's amazing what you can get the car to do.

As Scotty says; I can't take credit for the design, all I did was glue some metal together. :P

Great Mod. After trying out the handling "extensively" cost for benefit this is pretty much right up there with sway bars, if not a little better.

The ability to put it into some corners that I would have thought it would wash out into understeer, but then for it to stick and stay flat - outstanding.

Bravo Dale.

ps. Dale, your car handles. By the look in the mirror, I wasn't going to shake it!

We definitely had a nice run through to the lighthouse; and our suspension set ups are very similar, so it was definitely an even match. :thumbsup:

It was pretty cool watching you get the punch off the corner; even though I was already on the throttle, waiting for it to dig in, then closing the gap to you.

I credit the extra degree of timing... I think I'd like a little bit more power though. ;)

I'm organising material this week for the next run of bars. :whistling:

Just remind me to take that timing out before you decide to go for a tune, once that stage happens. Was defiantly good fun punching through corners. Need more torques though, and I'd love it to be linear right to the redline. At the moment it comes off hard at 6k. Got to remove some fuel I think from the top of the map.

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok guys; material for the next round of braces has arrived and I'm looking to start producing again next week. :banana:

I have a few PM's from people who wanted in for the next run, so if you're still interested; could you please confirm with me; and I can send payment details out to you. ;)

Thanks for your patience guys. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...