Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...

Hey people,

The R33 GTS-T / GTR rear strut brace is a perfect item to fit M35 Stagea front chassis.

Remove the end brackets and throw out.

Remove both centre back nuts and throw out.

The tubes and centre bolt are a tad long so I cut 10mm off one tube section and 10mm off one end of the centre bolt.

775 centre to centre is the magic number.

I used 50mm x 12mm hex bolts to connect to the under carriage. Spares holes illustred by screw driver. No need to unbolt anything :)

You'll need to drill out the holes in the braces to 12mm, existing is 10mm

Done for $50 in 20 mins and strong as buggery.

DSC02976.JPG

DSC02978.JPG

DSC02979.JPG

  • Like 1

Tried fitting it two ways, over and under the brace.

Over is better, sits a bit low under.

Great front end stiffening.

Use a reamer to increase holes from 10mm to 12mm.

Plenty of these braces available all the time :)

I

DSC02989.JPG

DSC02995.JPG

DSC02988.JPG

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
    • Just be warned that that turbo will not be a direct re-fit to the car. The exhaust housing is, of course, in the same place. It has to be - it's bolted to the exhaust manifold. So the dump will fit up. But the centre housing is not as long, so the comp housing will move backwards. This will affect both the turbo inlet and the outlet. There is fab work that needs to be done. Yes. it has one, it should have one. Paper gasket.
×
×
  • Create New...