Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there people, im hoping someone can help me here. I have recently purchased (been ripped ?) an R32 skyline 4 door. The car is a 1998 (yes thats what the nissan motor company plate has as the build date) R32 Impul-R skyline. Now i know the vehicle is an Impul special model, this included a whole bunch of "Factory" upgrades and such. My problem is that some stupid dick before me changed the original 4 spot front calipers to single spot sliders that i didnt know came out on any particular r32 skyline. The rear are still the factory sumitomo (i think) 2 spot calipers with 280mm (i measured) vented discs. I have a set of sumitomo 4 spot calipers to go on front but cant work out what size disc i need. Ive been told i need 32mm thick disc and one on front is 22mm and i think 275mm diametre (i did say it was some dick that changed them). Going by the dust? shield dia. it seems i could go a bit bigger. The mounting holes on both calipers are same width apart but it appears the 4 spot would sit further out due to mounting arms. Any help any one could give that might lead me in the right direction would be of the most help as ive been researching and sending emails to nissan and imul and have had no help. cheers.

If You are looking at the blue plate in the engine bay that says 1998 that is how big your engine is, ie 1998cc or 2l ie RB20. I don't think there is any date on the car. well there isn't on mine.. just grab some callipers and rotors from a 33

R32 GTS-t front rotor is 280mm x 30 (28 min).

R32 GT-R is 296mm x 32

Mount the caliper with a pad installed, and measure the distance centre of hub to top edge of pad. Double to get diameter. Should give you an idea of the required rotor diameter.

OK! OK! Im the Dick ! Lol. Yes i read the plate wrong and it does say 1998 for the engine capacity. People make mistakes and i guess i can sometimes be classed as people! :)

R32 GTS-t front rotor is 280mm x 30 (28 min).

R32 GT-R is 296mm x 32

Mount the caliper with a pad installed, and measure the distance centre of hub to top edge of pad. Double to get diameter. Should give you an idea of the required rotor diameter.

Cheers man, ill give it a try and post results.

Also, if anyone knows if there is a physical difference between the 2 door blinker/ corner lights and the 4 door ones ? are the mounting holes the same ? and pins on plug the same configuration ?

Another question, The factory plate has E-HCR32, i have seen many a mention of hcr32 but not e-hcr32. Any ideas ? or is this what all plates say on imports ?

If i am asking questions in wrong section than please let me know. I have owned turbos before this one, but i am a newbie to this forum so still learning protocol and such.

Cheers to all for thier advice.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...