Jump to content
SAU Community

New To Forum! Would Love Some Advice!

Spooger
 Share

Recommended Posts

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

New to the forum and I apologies if I have posted in the wrong section. This forum is quite large. I hope to get my feet here and chat with some great people.

As my first post I feel rude for asking, however I am about to buy my first skyline R33 GTS-T I'm a complete noob with cars. Been into super sport bikes mostly. Wouldgreatly appreciate any advice/assistance on the car I'm buying. Here is the link to the car sales ad. Thanks heaps in advance for any advice or knowledge on this.

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/nissan-skyline-1996-12761797?postcode=3844&Range=Price:Min,Max~1&eapi=2&silo=Stock&base=1216&cr=0&sort=default&__N=4294739749%204294950381%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294963846%204294963593%201216&vertical=Car&distance=25

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401938-new-to-forum-would-love-some-advice/
Share on other sites
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

5k is cheap, but if it is making that much power and he's only asking 5k for it then it will have problems. plus it has a home made front facing plenum out of the stock plenum. that's a good way to lean out the rear cyclinders

iwanta34gtr Grand Master

iwanta34gtr

Posted
Posted

It may be a good idea to look for something closer to stock and build it up yourself.

Normally, the cars which have not been heavily modified would have had an easier life. And if you do the mods yourself - you know they will be done properly.

Just my 2 cents, hope it helps.

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks for the advice. Very sound. Appreciate it. Just seemed like a really good buy. Wasn't overly concerned if it wasn't 100% was just keen to jump into something cheap as a starter. If you guys think it will be a clapper, I'd say I'll have to get it checked over first more closely. The guy who owns it works on oil rigs and from what I have seen, seems he has more money than what he knows to do with. He has about 8 cars, 2 of those are Silvia's. Figured he just wanted to get rid of it :-(

Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

that car looks battered man. hence the price tag.. save up a little more and get a nice clean one

One thing i will say mate get it RACQ checked (QLD Inspection), when i bought my V35 i got the mastercheck which was pricey but it gave me 7 pages of information right from it's origin and very detailed every component inside and outside of the car. But if your just looking to jump into something and don't mind, go for it.

But i know if you buy it, and it's a piece of shit, your going to be spewing you lost $5,000.

Goodluck with the purchase man :)

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lol RACV check*

I went to check it out, I had a look over it. Seemed fine. He took me on a test driven it. When he took drove it he gave it some curry for me and it went sideways at a T intersection at about (I think) 140kph. Engine peaked and successful drift right upto 4th. The only negative (other than cosmetics on bumper) was the battery died after leaving the interior light on for 30 minutes. He had to roll start it and he cringed, he said never to roll start them because they don't like it and not good for them,is this true or a massive warning sign something is seriously wrong?

Spooger Explorer

Spooger

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The other thing that had me raise eyebrows at was he swears it had work don't to the engine at boost worx QUEENSLAND, however I can't locate a boost worx in qld but I could in SA. I called them and showed them the car sales advertisement. They say they don't know the car (or the Vic reg) but the engine looked familiar/something they would have done. They also told me going by the sticker on the rear window the work would have been performed at minimum 3-4 years ago. I know the guy who is selling it has owned it for less than 12 months. He said the engine was sent to get the work done not the car (this was said BEFORE I rang boost worx SA) so the 2 storys add up but says he didn't do it, a previous owner to him did. Vicroads confirmed it has been owned in a few different states so that made a more viable story than what I was told. I think the only wrong he told me, or rather implied is HE got the work done to it. Boost worx couldn't locate it by its current reg (as they save it in the database by reg not engine.... Um that's a bit silly but ok)

So my conclusion -

He didn't Get the work by boost worx done

Boost worx THINK it's had work by them (engine only)

Vicroads confirm its been registered by owners in other states

Car has a bloody LOT of power

Owner was quite educated on engine capabilities (and modifications)

Another issue (minor) I tried entering the vin into car history.com and it couldn't located the vin, which seems like it hasn't been registered in (I think) Nsw or qld (I'm pretty sure that's all car history/revs is linked too)

Nikki-33 Contributor

Nikki-33

Posted
Posted

that car looks battered man. hence the price tag.. save up a little more and get a nice clean one

Agreed! There are so many on the market, spend another few k and get one in good nick! Why buy one for $5k, which may be cheap, to then have to spend another 5k fixing it? Just my opinion, I spent not a huge amount more on mine and its clean and I know the history.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • thomasLait
      New Stegea Owner

      By thomasLait · Posted

      Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • drifter17a
      R34 gtt rb25det neo timing belt kit

      By drifter17a · Posted

      I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • TurboTapin
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Another little story of weird shit happening

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...