Jump to content
SAU Community

Tarzan's G-Sensor


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 4 months later...

i recently purchased the tarzan g box off jesse streeter, will be here early april hopefully. Il try write up some feedback after instalation

Dragging this up. By any chance have you fitted and tested the Tarzan G sensor as yet. Keen to hear of your personal experience.

Read all there is on the net. Mostly PR stuff. But stumbled across 1 good rave by a GTR owner.

The new ETS Pro appears to replace the Gsensor with a similar MEM ?

In 2 minds :wacko::wacko:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm no expert but gave a quick run down on my blog. If you get the chance have a read. I definitely feel the difference in the way power is put down

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've had a Tarzan box in my car since mid last year.

The car has a LOT more traction coming off the corner, where I had to feed in the power before I can now be very aggressive with the throttle and the car just tracks out of the corner like its on rails (I know, hackneyed cliché but that is the best way to describe it). There is maybe a small difference to braking performance but I can't say its huge. ATESSA definitely responds faster and in a more decisive way.

Highly recommended.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for real world experience.

Tarzan G arrives next week for me.

As I own a 93 GTR I have an expectation any improvement will be a little greater than I have now, maybe closer to the later model GTR's (33/34).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll see a big difference.

The big thing about the Tarzan Box and the other replacement G-Sensors out there, (Midori & Do-Luck) is that the pendulum in oil OEM sensor will have degraded over the life of the car and will certainly not be working correctly. So any replacement will make the AWD work properly because it most certainly won't be if you have the original sensor installed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I Tested the Tarzan G Sensor out this morning. (Seat of the pants testing). No track and no times.

A definite improvement and worth while :yes: even for the normal to spirited driving that I do :yes:. Doing track work then I believe the benefits would be even greater.

(I suppose so would a cheap Torque controller set to 7 on the dial?)

Cabin torque dial actually moving under acceleration off the lights :) and up through the gears. You feel it and you see it - Win!

It's progressive and reflects what your doing - depressing accelerator and it's shifting power to the front.

- rather than heavy acceleration and 4WD coming on late (unsettling car). I used to do this just to see if the Attessa is working.

Tested it out on a corner I take every day turning right on the large roundabout and then halfway round a quick left to get off it.

Normally I fight the car on the left turn from spearing off to the right. Not today :D went exactly where I pointed her.

My GTR feels more sure footed off the mark and around corners, especially accelerating out the other side. There is no just on or off it's more progressive / linear.

It's definitely more responsive making it feel like it has more power/grunt under acceleration from the getgo. Attessa (4wd) is definitely on ALOT quicker.

I am impatient and waiting, even a second or two longer, gives me the shits. (hence -7's)

Experiences may be different but for me a big improvement.

Before I am asked - YES my OEM G Sensor works as it was designed too - This G works ALOT better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's where I started too. Couldn't decide as there was no local/SAU feedback on the ETS Pro.

I went and bought the Tarzan G for now. and I'm very happy.

Post up if you go the ETS Pro - I'd be keen to hear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just doing a price round up as I previously mentioned my attessa unit is busted and I need a new one:

Tarzan G Box - $ 648.65 - http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/tarzan-g-box

Midori Digital - $ 560.48 - http://www.nengun.com/midori-seibi/midori-spec-digital-g-sensor

ETS Pro - $599 - http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-1.html

Am I missing any? Haven't found any more info on Ruzic's G Sensor replacement. Is there any difference between these three?

These are all 100% OEM replacements?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Attessa is busted or G sensor broken?

PM me if you want to just replace your G with another OEM G.

---------------

The Midori and Do Luck unit still appear pretty much the same to me with different outer casings and likely "tuned" slightly differently. (even the external wiring is the same)

ETS Pro, although programmable and can be auto or manual (the other 2 aren't). It is not 'plug n play' and does not interface directly with the ABS.

Although from what I read can be spliced in. ETS pro appears the goods for very serious track drivers.

Hence I took the easy out and went PnP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I know it isn't listed under compatible vehicles, but the Tarzan G-box should work on a C34 Stagea too shouldn't it? This one has piqued my curiosity...

Edited by Marshstag
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Much less twat-tastic. CF wheels are too garish for civilised use.
    • From there, as the manual says....assembly is the reverse of disassembly, no tricks worth mentioning Much better (for me)
    • In my case, the standard wheel I had was in good condition but the buttons had more wear, so I swapped them across from the original wheel from the car. The plastic rear cover is held on by 4 tabs, and once the wiring is removed you can get access to 2 screws on each side the hold the buttons in From there I just swapped the wiring over. What was interesting is the standard style wheel is 2.0kg but the carbon fibre one is 50% heavier at 2.9kg. It even has a weight inside the wheel at the top to make up for some sort of imbalance in the design. weird
    • Once the airbag is off, to remove the steering wheel.... Undo the 2 plugs into the clock spring, and the horn connector from it's clip. Hit the 19mm nut with a rattle gun (preferably) or if you don't' have one, you probably want an assistant to hold the wheel in place while you use a breaker bar to undo the nut Then, screw the nut back on 3 turns, and pull the wheel sharply towards you. If that doesn't work hit it medium force with a rubber mallet on either side, or possible behind if you can get there. If that all fails (it shouldn't!) you might need a steering wheel puller
    • So, to next task....the carbon fibre steering wheel was either an expensive factory option or a chinesium special. Either way, I don't like either the flat bottom or thick ring style, so it had to go So...to remove the steering wheel.... First, disconnect battery negative and stomp on the brake pedal for a few seconds. Then, remove the small circular covers on each side of the wheel's rear surround to uncover the airbag clips. You need to push something like a flat bladed screw driver through, to push the steel clip inwards and pull the side of the airbag forward. Once you've done the easy side, same on the centre console side. You can see the tab you are shooting for circled in red Then, disconnect the horn spade connector and for the yellow airbag plug you need to get something small under the black locking tab to pop it out, then the connector releases......airbag is off  
×
×
  • Create New...