Jump to content
SAU Community

Tarzan's G-Sensor


Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Quick question regarding mounting the digital sensors...

Do they need to be mounted in the exact centre of the car - or at least in the exact same spot as the original sensor?

Also curious about this.

anyone else had experiences with these units?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...

You will have to do some research for current info

I understand both brands do a standard and a higher tweaked unit. (they are likely the same unit/technology if you see pictures of both side by side, maybe a different colour casing)

Also look at the capabilities of the ETS Pro? before rushing out and buying a unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep I'd hold off.

I bought the Midori one and - though it's been back to Midori for testing - found it to at least be reporting a fake signal to my V-Spec's digital G display.

Nissan G-Sensor:
http://youtu.be/Ct5od-3hSXA

Midori Spec Digital G Sensor
http://youtu.be/RHpTvkDVq8s

Although they aren't driven the same route - you can see that with the Midori unit in place the G display is shunted to the left whenever the vehicle is in motion.

I'd love some advice on this issue if anyone has any!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

What you see is how they work. I make the Skylab Fusion digital torque split controllers in the UK.

All these units so is tweek the voltage coming out of the G Sensor. Well, thats a simplified version.

What you see on the screen related directly to the voltage output from the G sensor. When the dot is in the middle, the G sensor is outputting 2.5 volts. 1.2G is 0.5 or 4.5v depending on direction. The usual ratio is linear. What my controller does , and all the others is alter the relationship between actual G and what the ATTESA sees.

This is why you cannot use them accurately with the R34 Display.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just doing a price round up as I previously mentioned my attessa unit is busted and I need a new one:

Tarzan G Box - $ 648.65 - http://www.nengun.com/do-luck/tarzan-g-box

Midori Digital - $ 560.48 - http://www.nengun.com/midori-seibi/midori-spec-digital-g-sensor

ETS Pro - $599 - http://www.full-race.com/store/r14-awd-skyline/ets-pro-center-diff-torque-split-controller-for-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gt-r-1.html

Am I missing any? Haven't found any more info on Ruzic's G Sensor replacement. Is there any difference between these three?

These are all 100% OEM replacements?

Skylab Fusion $420

[url=http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/175702-skylab-fusion-e-ts-controller.html[/url]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you see is how they work. I make the Skylab Fusion digital torque split controllers in the UK.

All these units so is tweek the voltage coming out of the G Sensor. Well, thats a simplified version.

What you see on the screen related directly to the voltage output from the G sensor. When the dot is in the middle, the G sensor is outputting 2.5 volts. 1.2G is 0.5 or 4.5v depending on direction. The usual ratio is linear. What my controller does , and all the others is alter the relationship between actual G and what the ATTESA sees.

This is why you cannot use them accurately with the R34 Display.

Firstly - THANK YOU.

You've been the only person (including Midori Seibi) whose been able to answer my question!

So, to confirm, the jump to the left is purely a miscommunication between the G-Sensor and the MFD, caused by an increase in voltage by the Digital Sensor and not a fault.

If that's the case you've made this old man very happy and very relieved!

THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Firstly - THANK YOU.

You've been the only person (including Midori Seibi) whose been able to answer my question!

So, to confirm, the jump to the left is purely a miscommunication between the G-Sensor and the MFD, caused by an increase in voltage by the Digital Sensor and not a fault.

If that's the case you've made this old man very happy and very relieved!

THANK YOU AGAIN!!!!!!

Yes, there is no error, its just the way it works. What you have experienced with Midori Seibi is an unwillingness to be co-operate with the seller. They know exactly what their controllers do and what their short comings are. All controllers that work this way will have this effect. What you can do it leave the original G-Sensor wired just to the MFD. That way the G you see is accurate and the controller can still work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

A quick update to this thread, I ended up getting a Do-Luck DTMII and blew it up trying to wire in the throttle cable :cheers:

Now I'm the market again for a g sensor. Is there any new products on the market? The Skylab looks interesting, anyone got one?

Is it PnP?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Er huh?

Don't get it? I replaced my one with the Tarzan G-Sensor and the display is now working A-OK
No extra wiring needed...

Yes, there is no error, its just the way it works. What you have experienced with Midori Seibi is an unwillingness to be co-operate with the seller. They know exactly what their controllers do and what their short comings are. All controllers that work this way will have this effect. What you can do it leave the original G-Sensor wired just to the MFD. That way the G you see is accurate and the controller can still work.

Maybe it's an update but the new unit I have works fine with the display.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Out of interest, how did you wire it for it to fry itself?

A quick update to this thread, I ended up getting a Do-Luck DTMII and blew it up trying to wire in the throttle cable :cheers:

Now I'm the market again for a g sensor. Is there any new products on the market? The Skylab looks interesting, anyone got one?

Is it PnP?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
    • Is the RB26 actually that far off the mark? Honestly from where I'm sitting a VR38DETT is not actually that much more advanced than the RB26. Yes, there is a scavenge pump on the VR38, it's smarter in a number of ways but it's not actually jumping out to me as alien technology. Something like a B58 or V35A-FTS on the other hand has so many surprising little design features that add up to be something that just isn't comparable. 
×
×
  • Create New...