Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my wifes 2002 V35 CVT-8 sedan has been doing this problem since the day i bought it for over a year now.

it only goes into limp mode BEFORE you start the car. Then the car doesn't go over 2000 - 2500 revs but reaches any speed you want (slowly) and VDC, SLIP etc. lights are on.

If you switch the car off and on sometimes it goes back to normal but its just pot-luck. Sometimes, switching off the car, banging the steering wheel (and avoiding triggering the airbag :P) and banging the dash around the aircon cluster then trying to start it seems to work but i reckon its all luck.

When it does go into limp mode it does it while you turn the key to accessories so all the lights come on but not start the car. If it enters this mode before you start it then it will stay in it when you continue turning the key to start and stay like that unless you turn the key off and on again in the hope that it dissapears.

Also a point i have to make is that when it does go into limp mode, there is a buzzing noise from the engine bay much like a relay struggling to open or close. If it does not do this noise before you start the car (while the key is on accessories) then the car will not go into limp mode.

OK, so here are error codes from Nissan:

9 CODES WERE RETRIEVED FROM ECU.

-BRAKE LAMP - LOW VOLTAGE

-BATTERY LOW VOLTAGE

-ECT THROTTLE MOTOR

-TRANSMISSION VOLTAGE X 3 FAULTS

-START VOLTAGE LOW

ALL CODES ARE DIRECTLY LINKED TO BATTER FAULT, POWER FAULT.

SOME CODES FOUND COULD HAVE BEEN EARLY CODES NOT CLEARED.

ok that was word-for-word from Nissan (but the bastards wouldn't give me the numbers of the codes)

as can be see, they are mostly "low voltage" errors so I did the first thing and that was to change to a new batter to make sure the old one wasn't causing the problem (you never know).

It still does it and its stumped me because its not like any other cars that i've read about online that go into limp mode while driving...it does it sometimes BEFORE you even start the car and also when it does do it theres a buzzing noise from the engine like i mentioned above which leads me to think that because of this "low-voltage" problem, there is a relay that is getting stuck and causing this car to go into limp mode.

any ideas?

Also apparantly theres a guy here in melbourne called Nuwan (excuse spelling) that knows these cars real well... anyone have his details?

thanks in advance, any info would be great so i can resolve this issue coz my wife driving around like that with no power can be dangerous in the event she needs to "step-on-it"

cheers,

Nas

Edited by TOOBO

Sorry to tell you, but these extensive issues with the CVT gearbox are seldom able to be completely fixed, and is the exact reason people stay away from GT8s like the plague. Everything you will fix, a new error will come up. Before I realised what a disaster GT8s are I looked at buying one. Luckily before I made full payment the gearbox developed errors, and after about 6 weeks and 3 different lots of sensors and relays ex-Japan, the seller gave up and parted the car out.

Good luck with it, but I am sorry to tell you no matter how much money you spend, you will probably never fix it.

Found this thread which may be helpful - I know he is in Bris, but that is a better option than parting out your car. At least if he has experience with them you may be lucky and he can help you.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/344504-v35-gt-8-cvt-transmission/

i don't think my issue is quite the same as yours because mine happens before the car starts. (i read your thread on that car you almost bought, lucky you got away from that one)

Parting out the car because of error codes is ridiculous. It will be fixed.

Thanks for your input nightcrawler

With that many voltage related issues with different components, I would be checking the factory grounding points for corrosion or damaged cables.

thats a good point, i will check that just in case. now to find the grounding points :P

That sort of buzzing sounds like a faulty relay, perhaps you could check the relay box behind the battery for corrosion or damage? You will need to remove the battery again to get to it.

I know Nuwan is in Bayswater, someone here should know his details. I will try and get in touch with him for you.

I had similar problem with my v35 coupe.

Had it diagnosed with a reputable electrician

They found out the problem immediately and it was in this case the csm sensor.

Si take it to a known auto elect. and get them to diagnose it.

If u r in Sydney I can recommend ione to you.

Good luck.

Im not sure what a csm sensor is.... if you meant cam sensor then that would trigger a cam sensor fault code and it hasnt. cant diagnose cars on previous history unless its a commodore. get someone to clear the codes, then drive it untill limp mode. scan again and you should only see relevent codes.

That sort of buzzing sounds like a faulty relay, perhaps you could check the relay box behind the battery for corrosion or damage? You will need to remove the battery again to get to it.

I know Nuwan is in Bayswater, someone here should know his details. I will try and get in touch with him for you.

Also check that your drainage hole is not full of leaves etc. These can get filled up which can cause water to drain via alternate routes... usually over wiring lol.

Out of curiosity, what sized battery do you have and how much extra electronics (ICE, Immobiliser, Alarm etc) do you have in the car?

Also check that your drainage hole is not full of leaves etc. These can get filled up which can cause water to drain via alternate routes... usually over wiring lol.

Out of curiosity, what sized battery do you have and how much extra electronics (ICE, Immobiliser, Alarm etc) do you have in the car?

Hey what drainage hole are you talking about? On the base of the battery?

I have a 500 - 550cca battery in it. Vantage remember exactly. It might even be a 450cca. Gotta check to make sure.

The only aftermarket stuff installed is one of those touch screen DVD/gps/mp3 head units running off the factory amp.

im with scotty on this one. sounds like a ground wire or relay.

buy a wire brush and start removing ground terminals. make sure the battery terminals are clean too. every body point should be removed and cleaned.

Also apparantly theres a guy here in melbourne called Nuwan (excuse spelling) that knows these cars real well... anyone have his details?

See below for Nuwan's details.

He should be able to sort you out.

Cheers,

Keith

Import Revolution

3/23 Scoresby Road

Bayswater, Victoria 3153

Australia

P/F |+61 3 9729 0669

M | +61 422 807 393

E | nuwan@irev.com.au

Edited by thinktea

im with scotty on this one. sounds like a ground wire or relay.

buy a wire brush and start removing ground terminals. make sure the battery terminals are clean too. every body point should be removed and cleaned.

ok cool will do that definately....you say that "every" ground point...how many are there? the main one is from the battery isn't it?

See below for Nuwan's details.

He should be able to sort you out.

Cheers,

Keith

Import Revolution

3/23 Scoresby Road

Bayswater, Victoria 3153

Australia

P/F |+61 3 9729 0669

M | +61 422 807 393

E | nuwan@irev.com.au

hey thanks a lot man, i had his number and lost it...i'll just take it to him and get it fixed

theres one from the battery -ve terminal to the chassis, plus all the other ones that run to the engine and gearbox. there are point on the top of the motor, under the plastic cover. check them all. the transmission one i cant remember, the CVT boxes are different from the RE5s ive seen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
    • It's a place for non car talk. There's whoretown which is general shit talking. But also other threads coving all sorts of stuff(a lot still semi car related)
×
×
  • Create New...