Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I finally got around to fitting my Deatschwerks DW301 fuel pump today. Very happy with how it went.

I followed Dunc's plagerised how to guide: http://www.m35stagea.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=259

Not fitting a Walbro, I wasn't sure what differences there would be. Physically, the DW301 looks the same size as the standard pump, just slightly longer in the body. You can follow the guide as Dunc describes, but a couple of notes:

  • Even though the DW301 looks the same size as the stock, you still have to shave the tabs on the bottom of the pump. You don't need to shave it completely, I think you can get away with cutting them half way.
  • You also still have to notch the base.
  • Highly recommend you replace the filter while you've got it all apart. I think mine was ~$30 trade from Main North Nissan.
  • I probably don't need to mention this, but obviously our fuel system has a return, so slightly different to that in the Walbro tutorial.

Very easy job in the end, and took less than an hour.

It is also not necessary to rewire the fuel pump to get the car to run, however I've run all the wires now so that's my next job (now that I know the pump works!).

I don't suppose anyone (Scotty?) knows which wires are which coming out of the fuel pump plug? I'm guessing fuel pump pos/neg and fuel level sender pos/neg, but which colour is which? Saves me fishing the multimeter out...

I'm just going to splice the new wires into the top , and run the standard little wires for 10cm out the top of the fuel pump assembly.

Hope that helps someone in the future!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402133-m35-deatschwerks-fuel-pump-install/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I will look for the colors later mate.

The base for the pump will clip in fine if the tabs are trimmed right off. I just put the assembly in the vice and tighten it slowly. I have never had to modify the base. The DW300 is exactly the same as a Walbro on the outside.

That return line is a pain in the arse too. Did you replace the tank o ring?

Nope, didn't change any o rings. Seems to be fine?

Why did you put the assembly in the vice?

Never seen a Walbro - looks slightly different but I've never had both in my hands.

If you can get those colours that'd help heaps with the rewire.

With the extra flow of this pump, does it bump up line pressure at all?

What are you paying for one of these, and where's the best source?

Fuel pressure is the reg's department as Slippy said.

I can get these through my wholesaler if you want me to get a price. I think they were around $160 (the Walbro's sell for under $100). Just like the Walbro it will require new wires to be run to the battery through a relay and fuse.

Nope, didn't change any o rings. Seems to be fine?

Why did you put the assembly in the vice?

Never seen a Walbro - looks slightly different but I've never had both in my hands.

If you can get those colours that'd help heaps with the rewire.

The main o ring stretches with fuel contact which makes it hard to get back into the slot properly. I usually get a new one as I am replacing the oem filter anyway.

I put the pump housing in the vice to gently squeeze it back together. Don't modify the housing at all, there is no need, just ditch the rubber underneath.

The Walbro is just a different color, non anodised.

Wiring:

Black with a yellow line is Positive (black with a red line inside the tank)

Green with a red line is Negative (black inside the tank)

Yep pressure should be the same, but I've got a Turbosmart adjustable FPR on its way now.

I think I paid ~$160-180 for the DW on ebay delivered. Wasn't too bad. I was tossing up the Aeromotive too, I think it's the same size but flows an extra 40lph: http://aeromotiveinc...p-offset-inlet/

Checking the DW site they now rate the DW301 for 320lph, don't know if they've updated it.

Didn't realise the Walbros were so cheap now?

I ended up softing out and getting the DW hardwire kit too (http://www.deatschwe...mp-hardwire-kit) very nice and neat, and just easier.

Scotty, didn't have any problems getting the main o ring back in/on. All seems fine for now? I'll have another look later. Any value in replacing the in tank power connector with the Deatschwerks one? Seems to have heavier gauge wire, but you still have that crappy thin wire out the top of the tank.

Yep pressure should be the same, but I've got a Turbosmart adjustable FPR on its way now.

Scotty, didn't have any problems getting the main o ring back in/on. All seems fine for now? I'll have another look later. Any value in replacing the in tank power connector with the Deatschwerks one? Seems to have heavier gauge wire, but you still have that crappy thin wire out the top of the tank.

I wouldn't worry about the FPR, it just makes it an illegal setup for no benefit unless you want to lower the pressures for high boost applications. (30psi or more)

If the cap clipped back in then you are fine, it just makes life easier for the extra $5 at Nissan and you usually have to go there for the filter anyway. I don't bother replacing the power connector, I think the DW one was thinner gauge...

Why would you lower base fuel pressure? I haven't heard of anyone ever lowering it, only upping it to stretch the injectors a tad.

On my SR I've unfortunately had to go a/market fpr as gone top feed instead of the side feeds. I think I got a bargain, turbosmart fpr800 with free gauge for $199 delivered.

Why would you lower base fuel pressure? I haven't heard of anyone ever lowering it, only upping it to stretch the injectors a tad.

On my SR I've unfortunately had to go a/market fpr as gone top feed instead of the side feeds. I think I got a bargain, turbosmart fpr800 with free gauge for $199 delivered.

Raising pressure lowers the pump's output flow, why would you want to do that? Seems to me you would be going backwards. Just get larger injectors, Aaron is getting ID2000's for his orangemobile btw.

I picked up the same one Paul, but managed to get it slightly cheaper.

Not sure they're illegal in SA, but having the gauge will be helpful. Then it just needs intake pipe and she's all ready to get the Fcon tuned!

Raising pressure lowers the pump's output flow, why would you want to do that? Seems to me you would be going backwards. Just get larger injectors, Aaron is getting ID2000's for his orangemobile btw.

but depending on the pump it can still out put more than enough at a higher pressure. Wont you run into injector flow problems if you lower it? The Bosch 1000cc is rated 1015cc at 43.5psi and a bit more at higher pressures, with a higher pressure of 7ba allowable, so you can run a stock base of 43.5 and still bang in up to 70psi of boost assuming your turbo can do that. if you lower your base pressure id imagine your also dropping the flow rate of the injector, why do that. I'm going to use the walbro 400+lph E85 approved pump and that will still flow 355lph at 70psi, more than enough supply.

I did consider 2000cc but if I decide to go back to 98 pump fuel it will need more work to get the afrs spot on as the injector will run at a really low duty cycle. I think my 1000s will get me to 300-320rwkw and seeing as the injector can run with more base pressure to a total of 7bar, I still have a little up my sleeve if needed. The SR block doesn't like too much more than low 300rwkw without starting to distort.

Edited by slippylotion

I picked up the same one Paul, but managed to get it slightly cheaper.

Not sure they're illegal in SA, but having the gauge will be helpful. Then it just needs intake pipe and she's all ready to get the Fcon tuned!

Dang, where and how much?

I just need to sort out the fittings needed to hook it up.

Dang, where and how much?

I just need to sort out the fittings needed to hook it up.

ISC Performance looked like they were doing an eBay clearance this week. One as an auction, the rest as "Buy it now" for $199. Ended up getting FPR and gauge for $166. Figured it was dodgy at that price until I saw who the seller was.

Seems like Craig and I think it was Alex? Worked out that the ECU didn't like large injectors running at low duty? Figure adjustable FPR lets me see what pressures I'm getting, and tune them if I need to, until I get to a point where I need the ID1000s. Seems to be working for Leon.

Yeah that's an awesome score at that price. I always think about bidding but most of the time they end going for the same. Nice work!

It does look like a clearance sale on some of the fear he is having. I wonder if now that most people have jumped ship to BC coilovers if he sells many of his ISC coils as I've seen them going out cheap also.

ISC Performance looked like they were doing an eBay clearance this week. One as an auction, the rest as "Buy it now" for $199. Ended up getting FPR and gauge for $166. Figured it was dodgy at that price until I saw who the seller was.

Seems like Craig and I think it was Alex? Worked out that the ECU didn't like large injectors running at low duty? Figure adjustable FPR lets me see what pressures I'm getting, and tune them if I need to, until I get to a point where I need the ID1000s. Seems to be working for Leon.

I am still very much of that opinion on injectors! Get what you really need IMO..... I'd love to drop back to about a 440 with mine....I recon it would drive heaps better in relation to the gearbox.

If you can't use the FCon to change the line pressure that the ECU tells the Trans to run (there is a table for it)- Get some injectors that you'll run somewhere between 75-90% duty cycle where you reach your goal.

To test what It would be like if you stuff it up, use really light throttle and change up a gear in manual, and see how long it takes to change.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...