Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You want to re-thread the tank? It is just the screws that strip I think, just get some off a v35 wreck or something? I have a few here if you get stuck.

I have to look at redesigning my fuel system, specifically inside the tank. I need an in-tank surge assembly using another pump to feed the twins in some kind of container, hopefully that will allow me to run the tank to a lower level without running lean around corners.

  • 1 year later...
  • Replies 65
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Dose anyone else s pump have 3 positive wires and 3 negatives all joined up like this? also sounds like the pump ramps up and down according to throttle position?

snBEm1h.jpg

this is what i ended up doing have a few things i want to run in the back so figured id put a bigger cable in.

XmpsPmd.jpg

You want to re-thread the tank? It is just the screws that strip I think, just get some off a v35 wreck or something? I have a few here if you get stuck.

I have to look at redesigning my fuel system, specifically inside the tank. I need an in-tank surge assembly using another pump to feed the twins in some kind of container, hopefully that will allow me to run the tank to a lower level without running lean around corners.

You shouldn't need another pump if you can make something to contain your pumps that has one way gates on it (to let fuel in but not out - similar to the one way system on some sumps)

i was going to use it to turn the pump on and off with the old power cables

Looks good Dale, the stock pump does indeed drop voltage at idle and cruise to limit the flow, so the fuel doesn't overheat. Unfortunately the new pumps require more voltage, hence the need for the rewire. Are you mounting the relay under the seat there? What happens if a big bloke sits there, does the seat touch the relay?

Did you use the DW300?

Dose anyone else s pump have 3 positive wires and 3 negatives all joined up like this? also sounds like the pump ramps up and down according to throttle position?

this is what i ended up doing have a few things i want to run in the back so figured id put a bigger cable in.

Is that the stock pump you are running?

If so, be careful putting it on full 12V power. I know others have & not had a problem, but that was how I popped my motor. The pump would intermittently make a noise (sort of a buzz) & I suspect when that was happening it wasn't pumping right. I found out by going wot & the rest is smoky, rattly history.

Looks good Dale, the stock pump does indeed drop voltage at idle and cruise to limit the flow, so the fuel doesn't overheat. Unfortunately the new pumps require more voltage, hence the need for the rewire. Are you mounting the relay under the seat there? What happens if a big bloke sits there, does the seat touch the relay?

Did you use the DW300?

yep i used the DW300, went in easily enough. so you reckon i can just pop the relay on and energize it off the old feed then the pump will run full ball all the time when the car is on, this is ok for the car/pump? atm its just running off the stock cables. yep it touches the seat a little it lines up with one of the box sections under the seat tho. if i sit on it i cant feel anything and im a 100 odd kgs or so haha

Is that the stock pump you are running?

If so, be careful putting it on full 12V power. I know others have & not had a problem, but that was how I popped my motor. The pump would intermittently make a noise (sort of a buzz) & I suspect when that was happening it wasn't pumping right. I found out by going wot & the rest is smoky, rattly history.

nup its the DW300 been in a few days running off the stock power cables seems all good so far

^ OK, all good. Do you notice it running richer at all?

yep its running quite rich atm but its always been like that i haven't noticed it change much so far with the new pump. needs a tune and a ecu for that matter lol! still searching for a fcon harness

^ OK, all good. Do you notice it running richer at all?

Why would it run richer? Surely the stock fuel pressure reg can keep up...

Definitely something you want to do before a tune, I have seen so many people fail on the dyno due to fuel supply issues and not having the pump hardwired, such a waste of time and money.

Good luck with the harness! What if I was to say there is a better alternative out there.

Better option? I wouldn't go that far yet... I am still learning the myriad of options the Fcon has to suit our cars, if only there was HKS factory support, like they have in NZ...

Better option? I wouldn't go that far yet... I am still learning the myriad of options the Fcon has to suit our cars, if only there was HKS factory support, like they have in NZ...

Yea scotty!!!

Better option? I wouldn't go that far yet... I am still learning the myriad of options the Fcon has to suit our cars, if only there was HKS factory support, like they have in NZ...

maybe talk to Stupidious!.....sorry Sidious!

I'll use my local support. :P

Why would it run richer? Surely the stock fuel pressure reg can keep up...

Definitely something you want to do before a tune, I have seen so many people fail on the dyno due to fuel supply issues and not having the pump hardwired, such a waste of time and money.

Dunno, but I noticed mine was a little richer when I put the stock pump on full 12V (at least when it wasn't buzzing).

Better option? I wouldn't go that far yet... I am still learning the myriad of options the Fcon has to suit our cars, if only there was HKS factory support, like they have in NZ...

What is this factory support you speak of haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of your suspension bushes/bolts etc, should also only ever be tightened when the car is sitting with full weight too.   IE, jack it back up, shove a heap of stuff down so you can lower the wheels onto so the car is "on the ground" but you have room to get under it.   It's why when properly done, you should be able to remove the shock and spring, but the arms won't go to 100% droop. If you don't do the above, you'll destroy your bushes.
    • We have some more genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates in stock 🙂, as well as the plain white 40mm hole cover: Tama 400 No 12-41: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-no-1241 Morioka 300 Te 43-58: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-te-4358 Plain White 40mm Hole Cover: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-40mm-hole-cover-white There's also a yellow plate for Kei cars with the corresponding yellow 40mm hole cover sold as a set: Tsukuba 581 Ii 64-66: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-single-number-plate-ii-6466 Also some Skyline 1/43 scale models: 1989 BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R (Silver): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/rare-ebbro-oldies-2006-release-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gtr-silver 1989 HCR32 Nissan Skyline GTS-t Type M (Red): https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/kyosho-original-1-43-hcr32-nissan-skyline-gts-t-type-m-red
    • These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.
    • MZ11 Toyota Soarer in Iwata, Higashi Osaka
×
×
  • Create New...