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A/c Belt Issues M35 Stagea


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Hi there,

I have a 2002 Stagea, VQ25(DD) engine and the other day the a/c belt started breaking apart. It actually cut a hole in one of the a/c hoses.

The belt is still on but its now only half as wide as it should be :wacko:

Should I cut it off so it doesn't do any more damage? Since its the middle of winter I don't care if I have to go without a/c for a little while.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. If you need any more info or pics let me know.

Thanks

Justin

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Replace both the belts mate. Its only a small job, and I think you can get them commonly at autoshops- just ask for 350z drive belts.

Did mine- Think I payed $30 or something for the belts- no much.

I'd be more worried about the AC pipe- do you still have AC or has all the gas gone?

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So you mean replace the cam belt or is there another smaller one that I'm not seeing?.

Do you have to take the pulleys off or do you just slip the new belts on?

A/C has gone, Alot of fluid got squirted up onto the bottom of the air filter box, the hole is on top of the rubber hose that is directly below the air box.

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there no cam belt, its the accessory belts youre talking about.

there are adjustments on the tension pully for each belt. you undo the locking bolt, then unscrew the pully to put plenty of slack on the belt to remove it. then do the reverse to put it back on. dont do them up too tight or too loose. do both belts.

the AC pipe will need to be repaired and regassed. go to an automotive AC specialist for that.

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no camshaft belts on our M35's. engine belt and AC belt only. If you are in Sydney, I can recommend a mobile AC guy, I was very happy with the job he did on my car, beit he was little expensive. I had the hose that connected to the compressor to the chassis mounted AC plumbing replaced, as well as both belts and a re-gas/ condensor clean.

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the two drive belts on the front of the engine. drives the alternator, power steering, AC. You won't have to take the Pulleys off, just loosen the nut in the centre of the idler pulleys, and then use the tensioners (the really long bolts) to back off the tension, remove belt, slip new belts on in right order, and in the right route, tension, and tighten up the idler pulleys again.

Then take it to an AC place, and get them to make up a new line, and fill the AC system again. And let it be a lesson to you to check your belts for signs of cracking!

Car doesn't have a timing belt, it has a chain. If in doubt take it to a mechanic who knows what they are doing.

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Thanks for your help....... I should know its chain driven, bit of a noob moment.

Its a new import and I haven't serviced it yet, its getting a service in the next few days.

I think I will have a crack at replacing the belts myself. How do I make sure I get the right tension? I can understand what would happen if they were too tight or too loose.

Thanks again.

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I'm sure that there is a real complicated way of doing it in the FSM, but rule of thumb that I go off, is that you find the longest length of belt, and if you can depress it by hand about 1cm or so, then it'll be ok. If its loose you'll hear it "screech" on start up or quick rev, its its too tight, it'll flog out the bearings in the ancillaries.

Other people have different ways?

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Snip that belt off if your going to drive it. Just remove it altogether.

You don't want it taking out your more important belt that drives the waterpump, electrics and steering. :)

Good choice.

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  • 4 years later...

I just replaced my Ac belt on my nm35 now it wont pick up untill around 3000rpm it's alright if Ur going but when u stop at lights or stop sign  Then it takes off ....any ideas what i have done wrong.....im not a car guy i just like driving them not working on them :)))

Edited by Smokie86
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