Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for a new clutch, i already have a jim berry full monty and i hate it, i have already worn the pucks out trying to drive it normally on the street, i want something that drives like the exedy hd i use to have, i was thinking a hd button or hd cushion button or sports organic, i need one early this week so npc is also out of the question, max power will probably be about 300rwkw, doubt i will be doing in drift but i will be doing a track day or 2.

so what do you have that drives normal and holds around 300rwkw?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402176-what-clutch-do-you-have/
Share on other sites

i have a NPC Bigmouth clutch with 3800-3900 lbs clamp im at 350kws so far and handles 3rd gear clutch kick no problem. cost me $740 and took 2 days to get to me. drives like a stocker pretty much, lighter then stock pedal feel.

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/ thats the website

Edited by nick81xd

i have a NPC Bigmouth clutch with 3800-3900 lbs clamp im at 350kws so far and handles 3rd gear clutch kick no problem. cost me $740 and took 2 days to get to me. drives like a stocker pretty much, lighter then stock pedal feel.

http://www.npcperformance.com.au/ thats the website

So it slips like a stocker when taking off in traffic? the jim berry i have now has 4000lbs of clamping force and is an absolute prick to get off the line unless you dump it, the one thing that might be differnt is that the jim berry only has 6mm (i think thats what was written on it) of travel, makes it very hard to slip.

So it slips like a stocker when taking off in traffic? the jim berry i have now has 4000lbs of clamping force and is an absolute prick to get off the line unless you dump it, the one thing that might be differnt is that the jim berry only has 6mm (i think thats what was written on it) of travel, makes it very hard to slip.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

+1

A few days of practice and you can drive them great off the line. Good to see so many happy NPC customers here

I have the 10" Sprung button NPC Clutch + Lightweight billet flywheel. Would never consider anything else now. Been a faultless performer for over 2 years

i have a bastardised JB Full Monty. Got a stock flywheel, 300zx plate and cover and 5500 clamp, jim was saying its slightly larger than the stock plate and cover. It shudders like a bitch when its cold, but as soon as its 5 minutes in on the drive its like a normal clutch. It can catch a few people off guard but only took me 25 mins max to sort it out.

i have a bastardised JB Full Monty. Got a stock flywheel, 300zx plate and cover and 5500 clamp, jim was saying its slightly larger than the stock plate and cover. It shudders like a bitch when its cold, but as soon as its 5 minutes in on the drive its like a normal clutch. It can catch a few people off guard but only took me 25 mins max to sort it out.

mine shudders all the time, its just not traffic friendly, was actually nice when i first put it in but once it bed in it was a prick.

Yeah, you can slip it like a stock clutch to get it off the line, My last clutch you had to build up revs and dump to not stall.

Brett i got one of these 10" carbotics fitted too, can be a little bitey off the line, but you get used to it pretty quick and seems to be getting better the more I drive it..only has 3-400kms on it...the rest of the time its extremely civilized with heaps of bite...

Also, while JB recomends the stock flywheel , I belive NPC recommend there lightened one as it has cooling channels in it..this stops it getting hot when stop starting in traffic which could be part of your problem....This will cost you another 400 or so tho..

I send you a pM bud :thumbsup:

I have a jb full Monty carbotic and I have absolutely no trouble driving it on a daily basis. It was pretty close to the floor initially, but Dvs Jez adjusted the freeplay on the clutch when I was getting a tune and it was heaps better to drive after that.

I have a JB Full monty carbotic with 4100 lbs of clamping force for my RB25/30DET + GT3076R.

Its drivable, but DEFINATELY not slippable off the line like a few other clutches I have driven. It also shudders like crazy if you do slip it. After all the hype about them on here, I have to say I was disappointed with the end result. Makes the car far less of a street friendly car.

I was contemplating going a Nismo Coppermix twin plate or an NPC 10". But at 700-1900 dollar expense, it's something I dont want to do just now considering I need a new diff aswell.

Edited by R32Abuser

I have a KB Clutch Engineering clutch, 6 puck ceramic sprung button centre (exedy) and a 1300kg pressure plate, I forget what material it's made of, but not organic. It was $420 including delivery. Been through 3 drift days so far, feels fantastic and very light on the foot. Never slipped, had many series of 3-4 clutch dumps from high 3rd gear rpm (stock rb30) and never changed the feel, hasn't heated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...