Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

In the last couple of weeks and mainly since our cold Melbourne mornings I'm getting the hand brake dash light staying on in my R33.

Sometimes the light will turn off immediately after the hand brake is released then will turn on again after several seconds, but mostly it will remain on until the engine has been running for 10-15 minutes. For the rest of the day it will continue indicating correctly.

Now i'm wondering if this light might be used to indicate any other car related issues? I do have a power fc but as far as im aware it only uses the engine light for sensor maxing and the rest of the warning lights should act as they did with the OEM ECU.

The car doesn't appear to be driving any different than normal, and it may very well be just a faulting switch on the hand brake. But this starts to seem unlikely when as mentioned early sometimes it does go off as it should then turns on again (without touching the hand brake)

Any help would be very appreciated.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402319-hand-brake-light-staying-on/
Share on other sites

it also indicates low brake fluid, which can also be an indication that your brake pads are low. check the brake fluid level. if it's low then also check your brake pads, because the lower the pads get, the more fluid is in the calipers and less in the reseviour. if the pads are low then only put a small amount of brake fluid in to get the light to go away, otherwise when you put new pads in you may end up with brake fluid overflowing when you force the pistons back into the caliper

it also indicates low brake fluid, which can also be an indication that your brake pads are low. check the brake fluid level. if it's low then also check your brake pads, because the lower the pads get, the more fluid is in the calipers and less in the reseviour. if the pads are low then only put a small amount of brake fluid in to get the light to go away, otherwise when you put new pads in you may end up with brake fluid overflowing when you force the pistons back into the caliper

Yeah check this

I got caught out searching for a dodgy wire, ripped my seat out and started pulling the floor carpet up and checking the wiring. Then checked the fluid and it was low. Topped it up and light went away. I found my light went out under braking sometimes

Thanks guys, I did wonder when I was in the car the other day if it might also relate to the main braking system.

I tried pumping the brake to see if more pressure made any difference to the warning, but no dice.

The reservoir is below max but still within the indicated min mark. Will give a little bit of a top up and check out how the brake pads are fairing tomorrow. Certainly still have a firm pedal feel so hopefully its just being over sensitive to the reservoir level.

Thanks again and hopefully I'll have good news to report soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's the thing. Cam is smaller than before.. though the old cam was +6 degrees advanced. We're talking huge changes here, the narrowbands want to trim out 20% of fuel and pull the (wideband) idle to like 16.0 AFR or such. One side is a little more trimmy than the other. Think along the lines of ~20% to ~15-18%. Unfortunately my scouring of the internet hasn't really found anyone with this issue. People either just disable NB's or have them wildly different, where one is -20% and the other is +20 or 0 (i.e a sensor is just dead/wiring is just busted). Turning them off and relying on the base map only results in the wideband reporting at about 14.0 with the Varex closed. It'd be a little leaner (closer to 14.7ish) with the Varex open. I know I can just change the switch points so that the narrowbands agree with the wideband, but it's still odd. Both of them are reading voltage, it's just that they're reading quite high mv, in the ~800 region. It's just odd. This was with the IAT fudged to report it was about ~22 degrees which is my guesstimation of the temperature in the room. I have an OEM sensor ready to try tonight, which is slow and crap - but .. worked last time I used it. Sadly I am aware that idle tuning with the big TB is going to be a PITA and I look 'forward' to many hours spent stalling or stumbling idle or delving into drivability things.
    • The GTR strut brace clears the new manifold.. by about 0.5mm. So this means I need to buy an OEM GTT Strut brace (again), which will clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. I guess I can sell the GTR Strut brace with the bonnet with the vents as a package deal as someone will need this one day. So my choices are vented bonnet but no strut brace, or GTR Bonnet with OEM brace (which I have to buy) but is bright red instead of the same colour as the rest of the car, which means the entire front end of the car will just be red until it goes back to paint jail. In other news the engine starts and doesn't leak. Why both O2 narrowband sensors think the tune is rich AF I do not know. The idle is also pretty shitty and my expensive IAT sensor from the USA is dead. The car sounds awful. But I assume or at least hope this is due to the many exhaust leaks, and the concrete garage it is in, sitting there with 0 intake bolted to it, and no bonnet or panels or anything to stop the induction/intake sound which is about 200db.
    • C'mon! At least come kicking and screaming into the 2000s. BA XR8 bulge.
    • No such thing as E30 in Sydney servos As stated above, flex fuel is your only viable,  and "safe" option I believe
×
×
  • Create New...