Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Woo Monday morning I have a meeting to discuss the transfer to my new job!!!!!

Yayayayayay I got it :D!!!!

Congratz man,

Ok so once again i need some parts help lol, so its time for a set of slotted rotors and some new pads, im going with QFM street pads as they are awesome (used on my last car) but the rotors im stuck between the DBA T2 and T3 (club spec) the T3 are like $450 a set for fronts and $380 for rears, and the T2 are like $500 for all 4. Is it worth the coin to get the T3?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SLOTTED-Nissan-Skyline-R33-R34-GTR-Inc-VSPEC-Front-Disc-Brake-Rotors-NEW-PAIR-/121034783187?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c2e3c39d3

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DBA-4000-T3-Slotted-FRONT-Rotors-324mm-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-GTR-V-SPEC-/150894583670?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2322049f76

Congratz man,

Ok so once again i need some parts help lol, so its time for a set of slotted rotors and some new pads, im going with QFM street pads as they are awesome (used on my last car) but the rotors im stuck between the DBA T2 and T3 (club spec) the T3 are like $450 a set for fronts and $380 for rears, and the T2 are like $500 for all 4. Is it worth the coin to get the T3?

http://www.ebay.com....=item1c2e3c39d3

http://www.ebay.com....=item2322049f76

I went the T3 as i didnt want them cracking on the track, although my POS didnt let me go quick enough to worry anyway lol

But yeah go the T3, dont cheap out on brakes man!

Yeh i was looking at the T3 is anyone able to explain the difference for me? im guess its something to do with heat from what u said Matt?

Compare these mate -

http://www.dba.com.au/products/street/t2-slot/

http://www.dba.com.au/products/clubspec-t/4000-t3/

also there is a T3 5000 and a T3 4000 whats the diff in thoes?

Lube or no lube haha

I went to go the 5000 until i realised they were about $500-600 per rotor, just still with the 4000 mate!

hmmm, well cheers for the help man, have some decisions to make now, i also need to replace the clutch and coilovers as clutch is slipping and coilovers are leaking, i think they are like 10 years old or more since they came with the car from Japan.

Yeah well just look at what you want to use the car for and purchase based on that! Shortcuts will get you breakdowns like my car lol, i spent so much in all the right places but skimped on the fuel system :P No more probs now!

And clutch, once again weigh up what you are using it for! Skids hopefully!

Yeah well just look at what you want to use the car for and purchase based on that! Shortcuts will get you breakdowns like my car lol, i spent so much in all the right places but skimped on the fuel system :P No more probs now!

And clutch, once again weigh up what you are using it for! Skids hopefully!

Yeh well my end goal atm is 300-320KW at the wheels, and a street setup on the brakes and suspension as i dont do track work, i will run it at the drags when Sushi wants to have a crack but its going to be a pavement pounder so handleing is at the top of my list, 300KW on the street i think is more then enough. I want to be able to get the power to the ground and keep it there, so suspension and brakes is high on my list but idk if i need the T3 as its not going to see much track maybe once a year if that. I have been looking for a 2nd hand OS clutch twin plate if i can find one, if not ill call JB and get a single plate customer built for the street. Coilovers im looking at another set of Zeal Function X or a high end set of BC.

Well maybe the T2 will suffice or the RDA etc..... Did you check with GSL Rallysport?

As for clutch there is NO need for a twin plate or triple plate etc..... Its up to you what you choose but a single can take 500kw+ of done right....

Well maybe the T2 will suffice or the RDA etc..... Did you check with GSL Rallysport?

As for clutch there is NO need for a twin plate or triple plate etc..... Its up to you what you choose but a single can take 500kw+ of done right....

Thats good info Matt, i was thinking of getting the Twin plate because in a few years im planing to do a big single conversion and turn it into a track car when i buy a daily, but thats when its all paid off and shiz, so for now its 300KW on probs a power FC with some injectors and a fuel pump.

Thats good info Matt, i was thinking of getting the Twin plate because in a few years im planing to do a big single conversion and turn it into a track car when i buy a daily, but thats when its all paid off and shiz, so for now its 300KW on probs a power FC with some injectors and a fuel pump.

twin plate clutch puts a lot of stress on the driveline.

if you dont upgrade the necessary supporting components you can get cracking in the firewall as well.

The nismo twin for the 34r is very well regarded as one of the best out of the box all round performers.

Not cheap, but handles heaps of power, and drives similar to stock.

It's what I will be putting in when I do the next stage of engine mods...

twin plate clutch puts a lot of stress on the driveline.

if you dont upgrade the necessary supporting components you can get cracking in the firewall as well.

You clown Benji!!! The only crack in the firewall will be when you don't torque the flywheel and the clutch goes through it and the bonnet lol...

My single plate has 4600lb clamp which is more than most twin plates and the pedal feel is lighter than a lot of cars...

Ant - yes they are a good all rounder but big $

twin plate clutch puts a lot of stress on the driveline.

if you dont upgrade the necessary supporting components you can get cracking in the firewall as well.

Totally incorrect benji. No extra stress is put on the driveline at all - what your getting confused with is that a clutch is designed to fail before the driveline parts approach there operational limit...so to much power and a good clutch can cause issues for diffs etc.

The r34 Gtr drive line can take 1000hp with little modification, so Adam should be right no matter what he chooses.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...