Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right for starters I currently have my 2 door GTS25 R33 without a spoiler so the boot is sitting low. Im really not a huge fan of spoilers allthough I understand the benefits they can give. What I do want to do its essentially slope the sides of the boot lid so that they come up to reach the side of the rear quarters. The photo I have added is of a WRX Boot lid and is essentially what I want my boot lid to look like so the sides slant up. What I am looking for however is tips on how people think they would do this themselves? looking for some sound advice because as much as I have access to spare r33 bootlids I'd be happy to get it right first time.

My original thought was stagger duck tape to get the right slant and height then bondo the shape and sand it in, So you may see why I need help.

auto-part-impreza-wrx-9th-truck-cover-boot-lid.jpg

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402428-custom-r33-boot-help/
Share on other sites

why not just get a flush boot lid, soo much less hassle.

in my opinion what you are trying to do will look like ass. You could also just get a drift lip and have it all moulded in, would be far easier and cheaper and i think it would look a whole lot better

I'll admit I hadn't thought about welding in metal but wont that weigh several tonnes? Would be easier to get accurate though.

Ha I may be hard to please but the straight flush boot just looks . . . odd to me. So I thought I'd have my hand at something a little different, I considered getting a Drift lip and chopping out the middle and moulding that in but I didnt want to ruin a perfectly good spoiler.

I may at the moment be able to get me a cheapo boot lid though so dependant on that I may mock it up and see how it looks, I reckon itd be good to have something different

  • 4 weeks later...

Touche, I'm currently searching around for a a welder I can borrow for said jobby, but if it gets to hard then Drift lip may have to be the basis of my work. Sketched it up with light cardboard a while ago but forgot to take photos, But when the weather shines up I'll do it again so people can see what I'm aiming for more clearly.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...