Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

I have taken my cluster and dash accessories ouut and have not used the car in a few days. Using a multimeter:

  • My battery is sitting on about 11.92v turned off.
  • I cannot start the car, it just makes a ticking sound under the bonnet.
  • If I connect my car to another car running the battery sits on about 13.8v.
  • It will start properly but when I disconnect the other battery the car dies??

Any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402448-has-my-alternator-died/
Share on other sites

Could be battery or alternator. But Im leaning towards battery. If you can use a charger on your battery and retest. Also try testing voltage not running then turn on headlights and see If it drops right down

  On 13/06/2012 at 7:56 AM, jjman said:

wouldnt the easiest way to test this be to turn off the car that your jumping it from?

that way if it keeps running its the battery. If it stops its ur alternator?

He already did this and it died. It should keep running if it's the alternator until the battery is depleted so sounds like a battery to me
  On 13/06/2012 at 8:27 AM, t_revz said:

He already did this and it died. It should keep running if it's the alternator until the battery is depleted so sounds like a battery to me

No. From his post he hasn't checked the cranking voltage of the car, only the static voltage

Checking the cranking voltage tells alot of the story.

My last post wasn't directed at yours Cal. I agree with your suggestion however a starter that Is clicking can be hard to get a reading as the multimeter usually won't keep up with the varying voltage. Plus if the battery is flat it will read low even though the battery might be fine. But more things Op tests the better:)

  On 13/06/2012 at 9:38 AM, t_revz said:

My last post wasn't directed at yours Cal. I agree with your suggestion however a starter that Is clicking can be hard to get a reading as the multimeter usually won't keep up with the varying voltage. Plus if the battery is flat it will read low even though the battery might be fine. But more things Op tests the better:)

Haha wow sorry man. Thought you quoted me for some reason.

No idea what happened there :S

  On 13/06/2012 at 12:50 PM, Tai1or Made said:

Check the terminals for cracks.

+1 when you try and start it do the terminals get really hot.

take the terminals off the battery, you will probably find they are corroded on the inside if so clean them or get new ones.

I've flattened my battery so many times (sealed lead acid type) by leaving my lights on while parked, I always keep a charger in my boot. I've found I need at least 12.4V (12.6V ideally) at the battery terminals for the car to start, anything lower and there is no chance of the starter to even turn once. 11.92V there is absolutely no chance, even my motorbike wouldn't start with that much voltage.

  On 14/06/2012 at 6:02 AM, Moodles2 said:

I've flattened my battery so many times (sealed lead acid type) by leaving my lights on while parked, I always keep a charger in my boot. I've found I need at least 12.4V (12.6V ideally) at the battery terminals for the car to start, anything lower and there is no chance of the starter to even turn once. 11.92V there is absolutely no chance, even my motorbike wouldn't start with that much voltage.

For the last yr before pulling mine off the road the battery had a dead cell and sat at 10v started every time. About 9v was the absolute limit. However I run 0 gauge battery cables everywhere.

Usually when a battery has been completely flattened a few times, you won't be able to pull as many amps through it even if it has 12 or so volts. my old battery which was rooted wouldn't start the car at 12 volts the new one will start it at 10.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are several aftermarket options available, from not-too-painful moneyhttps://justjap.com/collections/driveshafts-bearings/products/d-max-reinforced-replacement-rear-driveshaft-set-fits-nissan-s13-s14-s15-r32-r33-r34-c35 and  https://justjap.com/products/crank-motorsport-billet-rear-axles-fits-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-r34-gt-t?srsltid=AfmBOorQk4xkGUa98kO7v2ePLUiNt-HRrM2AwWNw9mbSIVE1ujBVwY__, all the way up to The Driveshaft Shop https://driveshaftshop.com/skyline-cv-axles/
    • Yeah based on old XRC5964S specs, it looks to be roughly GTX3576R sized? But this 5964S compressor will flow 90lb airflow somewhat similar to the compressors in both the GTX3584RS or G35-1050.. I fully expected the 0.64 rear A/R to choke up top - seems way too small from typical convention - but these are seemingly beneficial over the prior 0.82 results.. Be interesting to see if he comments on the EFR question in that thread - he mentioned in a prior video that BW EFR's were the "cats pajamas 10 years ago", but by the sounds of things all his kits have been using Xona for quite a while now.
    • Yeah it’s still got the oem manual gearbox and clutch, only kinda mods are a blow off valve, coil overs, and a aftermarket intercooler. Also had it for about 2 months now with a lovely midnight purple paint on it.
    • Yeeeppp, been following a lot of the testing on the latest Xona stuff and there are some mental results.  He also went over 1000hp @ 4 hubs on his Mainline with a XRE6364S (63mm) which was also well into the 20psi range before 4000rpm on a 2.5. Crazy stuff. Fwiw the XRE5964S is basically the modern equivalent of their old HTA3582 - would drive nicely enough on an RB25 or 26, but proven capable of a huge amount of power if you want to spicy with rpm tho even at sane boost levels will make stout numbers 
    • The axels in my R33 seem tired, and have a bit of play in them. I cannot find any new of course, not interested in buying used, but I am looking to see if anyone can identify some cross compatible axles. In the states I have seen suggested for S chassis the J30 axles, however for the skyline (as best I can tell) the lengths are about an inch off (2.5cm) on both sides. R33 my measure L 22" R 24.5" GPT L 22.5" 24.25" J30 L 23.5" 25.5"  so shaft length is probably an inch wider. Not sure if someone has another still remanufactured option besides the J30. I figured worst case I can buy a pair tear them down and swap the center shaft. My other option was reaching out to GSP to see if they cannot piece together a set, since the axle stubs are still manufactured, I wouldn't think it be that hard to find a shaft or make a shaft work. 
×
×
  • Create New...