Jump to content
SAU Community

Can't Find My Vacuum Leak, Help? (Pics)

Jo33

By Jo33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jo33 Rookie

Jo33

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, I've had a vacuum leak problem or what I think is a vacuum leak problem for quite some time. My engine sometimes hunts, mostly when I take the key out and the turbo timer kicks in. One time I drove out the carwash and my engine was hunting real bad almost cutting the engine and when I put the foot down it just went CHUG CHUG CHUG and struggled to get up to speed with ALOT of fuel spitting out the back. I've ziptied alot of the small hoses coming out of the intake manifold(A 4mm or 6mm line on the back of the manifold allowing my gauge to read something and all hoses that size out of the manifold). I've only worked on marine diesel engines so I have no clue what to look for or what i'm even looking at too be honest haha.

Here's what my gauge reads normally and I would think its meant to be right down on the -7? I'm not 100%

cKrHw.jpg

Also i've found these stains on this hose coming near the front of the manifold, the side closest to the rocker cover but I never realised fluid even went into the intake manifold but there is a tiny coolant leak around this area somewhere too I can see a few drops on the block underneath it.

lMDmt.jpg

And this screw here(Pipe leads into my radiator) is damaged and not tight but again I don't know if it's even a problem

ZoxQD.jpg

If anyone could help me i'd be extremely thankful as I have a feeling i'm losing boost pressure due to this aswell and my fuel consumption is effected.

Thanks!

-Joe

EDIT:

Edited by Jo33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402576-cant-find-my-vacuum-leak-help-pics/
Share on other sites
StevenCJR31 Veteran

StevenCJR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

sounds like a few problems you have there! the car wash misfire sounds like water on the ignition system, have a look at your coils and plugs and check if water is / has gotten in there

Edited by StevenCJR31
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

That earth wire is the main ECU earth. VERY important

Also clamp off the big tube that goes to idle air control. The engine should stall. If it doesn't, you've got a vacuum leak at the charcoal canister. Delete it to diagnose

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Lookin gat your vacuum/boost guage......that is a completely normal idle vacuum. You will never see -700mmHg. Usually halfwayish between 350 and 700.

The coolant is normal. There is a coolant blled screw right there (I think it's the 10mm one on the edge of your circle. Open it to bleed, coolant drops out. Normal.

Jo33 Rookie

Jo33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Lookin gat your vacuum/boost guage......that is a completely normal idle vacuum. You will never see -700mmHg. Usually halfwayish between 350 and 700.

The coolant is normal. There is a coolant blled screw right there (I think it's the 10mm one on the edge of your circle. Open it to bleed, coolant drops out. Normal.

Thanks for clearing that up, I've never seen boost pressure measured in mmHg always psi or bar so I didn't know what to expect.

Thanks for all the tips guys once I get home tonight i'll pick up all the gear I need on the way home and hopefully the hissing noise and hunting stops :D

gotRICE? Veteran

gotRICE?

Posted
Posted (edited)

It may have something to do with the turbo timer. Try leaving it idle without the timer on. Just leave key on. If it doesnt happen then its the timer

Id agree with that too. The turbo timer in mine used to make the car revs dip every time it beeped as it counted down. Never figured out why and couldnt be bothered unwirng it so just turned it off and hid it haha.

Edited by gotRICE?
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

Id agree with that too. The turbo timer in mine used to make the car revs dip every time it beeped as it counted down. Never figured out why and couldnt be bothered unwirng it so just turned it off and hid it haha.

It's called cheap install

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • TurboTapin
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • TurboTapin
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • GTSBoy
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...