Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I want to do an oil and oil filter change, but i haven't dont it before. I want to learn how to do it, and i've watched a few videos and it doesn't seem too hard at all. I have a 98' r34 GTT.

A few questions I do have is:

1. WHERE exactly is the filter located? Would i need to jack the car up or is it somewhere in the engine bay that I can easily locate? A photo of where it is in a r34 GTT would be great (I've searched around in the forum and google but couldnt find an answer)

2. WHAT is the best type of oil I could use? I went on the section in the forum reading "the goods on oils" but i dont really understand it. Also, one that isn't too expensive.

3. What type of oil filter do i need? One that I can readily get from a store like autobarn or supercheap auto or something, and not have to wait for delivery online, but also one that won't kill my engine lol.

Anyways, sorry for the noob questions, but I want to learn how to work on my car and everything. Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402597-r34-gtt-oil-change/
Share on other sites

Go to Supercheap, get Nulon 10W-40 fully synthetic (6L bottle) and a Ryco Z442 oil filter.

And if you havent already done it, I'd suggest you change your fuel filter too. Use a Ryco Z201 for this.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

thanks for the quick reply.

Just wondering where both the oil and fuel filters are located?

I think I know where the fuel filter is, but not 100% sure. I've attached a photo, is this the fuel filter?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/aznspec/filter.jpg

Edited by suwidji

Get yourself an good oil filter removal tool, I can't recommend a type (there are many different tools, hammering a screwdriver into the oil filter should always be a last resort) as I've never had to change a filter in the standard position on a skyline (I have a filter relocator).

Ryco Z442 oil filter

As for oil, any semi-synthetic that is rated 5w-40, 10w40 that costs more than $25 that also isn't Magnatec. Try Gulf Western SynX 3000 ($20-$30ish, Repco is supposed to be cheapest). If you're willing to pay more, check Penrite HPR 10, Motul Turbolight 4100 (these 3 people have alot of success with and have positive feedback). Castrol Edge (just not magnatec!) is worth a mention too, Nulon not so much (my opinion is it's overpriced for a "full synthetic" which it actually isn't)

oh ok thanks, yeh i went to supercheap and it was pretty pricey for the Nulon one.

just a question regarding the fuel filter change, where is the fuel cap? I read that if i undo the cap, the pressure when removing the old filter will be a lot less and less fuel will come out.

Also, which one is the fuel pump fuse? I can't find the location in the fuse box.

This is what my fuse box looks like, not sure what to look for, but i didnt see anything that says fuel pump or similar.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/aznspec/fusebox.jpg

OH sorry, disregard the fuel cap question. I'm assuming its the cap you undo when filling petrol lol.

But which fuse is the one for the fuel pump?

I'm correct in needing to depressurize the fuel line first before replacing the filter right?

Edited by suwidji

Go to Supercheap, get Nulon 10W-40 fully synthetic (6L bottle) and a Ryco Z442 oil filter.

And if you havent already done it, I'd suggest you change your fuel filter too. Use a Ryco Z201 for this.

worst oil advise ever!

i ran nulon for 1 oil change and it was shit

changed to gulf western sougi (now discontinued) which was awesome (ran about 30,000 kms on it)

now running GW synx 3000 (done maybe 20,000kms on that)

will change to GW synx 6000 when it needs changing next

so all in all, don't get nulon, go to Repco (apparently they stock it) and get Gulf Western Synx 6000/3000 (which ever one they have, the 6000 is the best but 3000 is still really really good)

oh, the Synx 3000 is only like $30 too so if you don't like how it feels, just change it out

autobarn does ususally

pretty sure someone in the oil thread said they got theirs really cheap from repco

and Birds said he stopped distributing GW because repco was under-cutting him

so sounds like either your repco is really small, or they are feeding you bs

google Gulf western distributers (your area) and grab it from them

I've tried finding the fuse in the fuse box, but im not sure which one it is- there's no "fuel pump" written on it.

Sorry I'm reall bad at finding out where things are in my car, but I'm trying to learn where everything is to better understand.

worst oil advise ever!

i ran nulon for 1 oil change and it was shit

changed to gulf western sougi (now discontinued) which was awesome (ran about 30,000 kms on it)

I've owned 7 GT-T's previously and used Nulon in literally all of them. Never experienced an issue. Although, never did track days.

For my own understanding - could you please elaborate as to what made Nulon a poor experience for you?

I have since started using Royal Purple in my GTR / S15's, however am still curious.

Thanks.

Mainly the fact that they charge $60 for a group 3 synthetic (which is what the synx 3000 is)

but the main things i noticed what that the top end was quite noisy after about 5000kms, sougi which was the same price lasted till 10,000kms until there were any hints of noise/rattle

i was a bit worried about the noise (wasn't mega loud like the lifters/tappets on my r31) but after changing the oil it was a lot better

i guess nulon is ok but its overpriced for what it was

i'd also be a bit careful as some people have been reporting sludge issues with RP (mainly the yanks)

  • 3 months later...

^ there's a few tricks depending on what you have available. do you have any removal tools at home?

I had one of the ones where it has a rubber strap & handle which worked fine when I had my GTt (long time ago now)

anything that can wrap around the filter & create leverage should do the trick.

as an eg. the same tool I had for my GTtwouldn't fit in my v36 due to the tight (ie non-existent) work-space, real pita & almost impossible to loosen by hand alone so I improvised using an old metal bar & strap that was lying around the garage

gallery_29425_4430_588156.jpg

I would then loop the strap over the filter & wrap it up until the metal bar was tight against the filter using the ratchet wrench in the above pic. Once it was all tight against the filter the wrench acted like a lever bar to let me loosen the filter

gallery_29425_4430_685823.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
    • Holy hell! That is absolutely stunning! Great work!!!
×
×
  • Create New...