Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I want to do an oil and oil filter change, but i haven't dont it before. I want to learn how to do it, and i've watched a few videos and it doesn't seem too hard at all. I have a 98' r34 GTT.

A few questions I do have is:

1. WHERE exactly is the filter located? Would i need to jack the car up or is it somewhere in the engine bay that I can easily locate? A photo of where it is in a r34 GTT would be great (I've searched around in the forum and google but couldnt find an answer)

2. WHAT is the best type of oil I could use? I went on the section in the forum reading "the goods on oils" but i dont really understand it. Also, one that isn't too expensive.

3. What type of oil filter do i need? One that I can readily get from a store like autobarn or supercheap auto or something, and not have to wait for delivery online, but also one that won't kill my engine lol.

Anyways, sorry for the noob questions, but I want to learn how to work on my car and everything. Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402597-r34-gtt-oil-change/
Share on other sites

Go to Supercheap, get Nulon 10W-40 fully synthetic (6L bottle) and a Ryco Z442 oil filter.

And if you havent already done it, I'd suggest you change your fuel filter too. Use a Ryco Z201 for this.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

thanks for the quick reply.

Just wondering where both the oil and fuel filters are located?

I think I know where the fuel filter is, but not 100% sure. I've attached a photo, is this the fuel filter?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/aznspec/filter.jpg

Edited by suwidji

Get yourself an good oil filter removal tool, I can't recommend a type (there are many different tools, hammering a screwdriver into the oil filter should always be a last resort) as I've never had to change a filter in the standard position on a skyline (I have a filter relocator).

Ryco Z442 oil filter

As for oil, any semi-synthetic that is rated 5w-40, 10w40 that costs more than $25 that also isn't Magnatec. Try Gulf Western SynX 3000 ($20-$30ish, Repco is supposed to be cheapest). If you're willing to pay more, check Penrite HPR 10, Motul Turbolight 4100 (these 3 people have alot of success with and have positive feedback). Castrol Edge (just not magnatec!) is worth a mention too, Nulon not so much (my opinion is it's overpriced for a "full synthetic" which it actually isn't)

oh ok thanks, yeh i went to supercheap and it was pretty pricey for the Nulon one.

just a question regarding the fuel filter change, where is the fuel cap? I read that if i undo the cap, the pressure when removing the old filter will be a lot less and less fuel will come out.

Also, which one is the fuel pump fuse? I can't find the location in the fuse box.

This is what my fuse box looks like, not sure what to look for, but i didnt see anything that says fuel pump or similar.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/aznspec/fusebox.jpg

OH sorry, disregard the fuel cap question. I'm assuming its the cap you undo when filling petrol lol.

But which fuse is the one for the fuel pump?

I'm correct in needing to depressurize the fuel line first before replacing the filter right?

Edited by suwidji

Go to Supercheap, get Nulon 10W-40 fully synthetic (6L bottle) and a Ryco Z442 oil filter.

And if you havent already done it, I'd suggest you change your fuel filter too. Use a Ryco Z201 for this.

worst oil advise ever!

i ran nulon for 1 oil change and it was shit

changed to gulf western sougi (now discontinued) which was awesome (ran about 30,000 kms on it)

now running GW synx 3000 (done maybe 20,000kms on that)

will change to GW synx 6000 when it needs changing next

so all in all, don't get nulon, go to Repco (apparently they stock it) and get Gulf Western Synx 6000/3000 (which ever one they have, the 6000 is the best but 3000 is still really really good)

oh, the Synx 3000 is only like $30 too so if you don't like how it feels, just change it out

autobarn does ususally

pretty sure someone in the oil thread said they got theirs really cheap from repco

and Birds said he stopped distributing GW because repco was under-cutting him

so sounds like either your repco is really small, or they are feeding you bs

google Gulf western distributers (your area) and grab it from them

I've tried finding the fuse in the fuse box, but im not sure which one it is- there's no "fuel pump" written on it.

Sorry I'm reall bad at finding out where things are in my car, but I'm trying to learn where everything is to better understand.

worst oil advise ever!

i ran nulon for 1 oil change and it was shit

changed to gulf western sougi (now discontinued) which was awesome (ran about 30,000 kms on it)

I've owned 7 GT-T's previously and used Nulon in literally all of them. Never experienced an issue. Although, never did track days.

For my own understanding - could you please elaborate as to what made Nulon a poor experience for you?

I have since started using Royal Purple in my GTR / S15's, however am still curious.

Thanks.

Mainly the fact that they charge $60 for a group 3 synthetic (which is what the synx 3000 is)

but the main things i noticed what that the top end was quite noisy after about 5000kms, sougi which was the same price lasted till 10,000kms until there were any hints of noise/rattle

i was a bit worried about the noise (wasn't mega loud like the lifters/tappets on my r31) but after changing the oil it was a lot better

i guess nulon is ok but its overpriced for what it was

i'd also be a bit careful as some people have been reporting sludge issues with RP (mainly the yanks)

  • 3 months later...

^ there's a few tricks depending on what you have available. do you have any removal tools at home?

I had one of the ones where it has a rubber strap & handle which worked fine when I had my GTt (long time ago now)

anything that can wrap around the filter & create leverage should do the trick.

as an eg. the same tool I had for my GTtwouldn't fit in my v36 due to the tight (ie non-existent) work-space, real pita & almost impossible to loosen by hand alone so I improvised using an old metal bar & strap that was lying around the garage

gallery_29425_4430_588156.jpg

I would then loop the strap over the filter & wrap it up until the metal bar was tight against the filter using the ratchet wrench in the above pic. Once it was all tight against the filter the wrench acted like a lever bar to let me loosen the filter

gallery_29425_4430_685823.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No......not yet Minister for War and Finances has stated that the Commodore has to go first Not that I am going to modify the NC any more than what it is already modified now.....
    • Thanks again, really helpful chap from alpha omega wanted to speak to me, little concerned if this is meant to he aero alloy/ airospace quality and car sitting on drive has caused this.  Airplane are subject to much more changing temp and conditions than road salts! My caliper, many other components much older have surface rust but never eating part of the metal   Had I not seen it , could have been a disaster! specifically on rear part of bracket coming off like biscuit will update on what they say, helpful people so far
    • January or Feb is it booked in for turbo fitment?
    • The MX5 has had some annoying rattles in both front doors over bumps So I installed fancy pants door bushings, which stopped all of the rattles with the windows up, but........with the windows down there was still rattles, so after some googling,  and a chat with MX5 Mania, I got some new door to glass weather seals, all the rattles, windows up, or down, are gone now Shout out to MX5 Mania, the weather seals were on sale, and when I head to Dural to pick the up they even fitted them for me for free I did see a "really" nice Blue NA sitting out front   and this Black NC PRHT that looked like it has sat in the sun for its whole life and never had a wash, the clear coat was non-existent, an it looked horrible, really horrible, but, it had a nice turbo kit with over 200kw, the thing went like a cut snake, bagging the rears through the gears and dosing like a champ 😍 But, as I've always stated, I am keeping my NC na, I'm happy with the current power the car makes In other news: MX5 Mania do a drive in drive out turbo kit, the only minor additional part recommended for boosting my car, as it sits now, is a oil cooler, and that bonnet vents are definitely required for track use Aftermarket version look a bit to "racecar" spec I wonder how Focus RS bonnet vents would look?????
    • Paint is only structural when applied to the outside of Chinese and Indian cars. Otherwise it should never be present between mechanical joints that were intended to be metal to metal. Pain slips, slides, cracks, compresses, and add thickness that wasn't intended to be there. It comes firmly under the category of "just no".
×
×
  • Create New...