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Hey, im wrecking this s2 r33 minus motor and box - all parts available otherwise.

All parts located near hornsby NSW

Ring/Text tim on 0404925522

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Note: the shell is gone but pretty much everything was kept..

3.5inch Exhaust Cat back 300$ mild steel, have engineer cert' supposedly measured 86dB but it was pretty quite.

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Front hubs new no castor rods 200$ ( i dunno what these are worth so offer.)

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R33 doors with door cards Can split 100$ each Immaculate paint and door card. has hks sticker on it though..

GTR boot lid 300$ ONO

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Veilside Side skirts + rear pod things 250$ or offer good nic, pain its cracking in places

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2x 18x8 +30-40 offset rims multi 5 stud PCD brand new maxxis tyres 235/30something. 300$ pair.

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33 Silver fuel door 20$

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Door trims, all really good nic (door seals rubbers etc.) 70$ for the whole lot.

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Front seats drivers side is shabby 120$

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Rear 50$

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33 door lock set 100$

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Parting out whole interior

Dash surrounds 30$, Centreconsole + gear surround 50$

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Map light20$, roof light thingo 30$

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sun visors 20$

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s2 Dash immaculate 80$

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Dash Cluster 80$

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Manual Pedal set 60$

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Manual Clutch master 40$

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Clear indicators sold orange indicators 20$, GT badges 50$

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Airbag stuff 80$ for the lot

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Washerbottle 30$, Coolant bottle 30$

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Brake ABS unit 60$

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Brake Master Cylinder 120$

Booster 50$

Rear thing that says skyline 30$

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Make offers on everything, least i can do is say no.

If there is anything not there that you want just ask as ive probably missed a bunch of stuff.

Thanks

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  • Latest Posts

    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
    • Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.
    • What ECU is on your car @silviaz? You can just change the idle target table yourself and the IACV duty cycle. Noting that if you play around with the screw you'll also need to revisit the idle base duty table as you will end up offsetting the lot. Another reason why DBW is superior, there's less mucking about.
    • Yep. Saw that on the image above but, wonder if it makes more sense to clean out the iacv because let's say in theory mine is dirty and if I clean it the rpm will drop. If I first go to my tuner to drop the rpm and then go to clean my iacv won't it drop further or is the rpm a fixed number?
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