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Ok, so I'm about to throw on some cam gears so I began step one - check base timing so when I put it all back together I can set it correctly. Hooked up the timing light and something doesn't look right... Looks like its at around 27deg? (Should be 20)

2012_06_16_0953_web.jpg

Is this likely? Car runs ok (except is running out of injector hence the current work ready for new injectors and a trip to the tuner)

Is it possible that the harmonic balancer could be indicating the wrong timing?

My power FC shows 20deg at idle and advances as I increase the revs; should the base timing there match the timing shown on the harmonic balancer?

2012_06_16_0957_web.jpg

The CAS appears to be in about the right spot, not even sure what the range of adjustment is, but it appears roughly in the middle...

2012_06_16_0958_web.jpg

Engine manual guide for those playing at home...

2012_06_16_0959_web.jpg

Any ideas? Do I need to put the dial caliper down the spark plug hole to double check TDC/timing?

Cheers!

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The 20 degree figure you see is the ECU assuming the base timing is 20degrees, it has no way of knowing mechanically what the timing is set to.

If it's a cheap timing light you may actually be seeing double taking the reading from the wire loop, confirm with coil #1.

The 20 degree figure you see is the ECU assuming the base timing is 20degrees, it has no way of knowing mechanically what the timing is set to.

If it's a cheap timing light you may actually be seeing double taking the reading from the wire loop, confirm with coil #1.

Cool, that's what I thought - mechanical/electronic base timing is independent.

I used the blue loop at the back of the engine; I'll have to test it again using coil #1 I guess. I figured if it was the wrong coil/signal it would be ~60 degrees out though meaning it would either be right or way wrong. Is this the wrong assumption?

Definately use coil 1, heaps more accurate reading, dont know if u csn lock the timing on a power fc, but if u can u should do that when setting ur timing

Locking the timing isnt really required, just be sure to match ur base timing with what ever the ecu is outputting at idle at the time of setting

+1 for high tension lead between plug and coilpack

nah just zip tie the mouth of the timing light open and hold it against the front of No1 coil, works fine, as Jez said the "timing loop" can show upto a 15deg change in actual timing

I know if I check the timing on my two GTRs before they are full temp they can read up to 27deg adv at idle, depending on how cold they are, so full op temp before you check it

having said that if the car was/has been tuned like it is then put it back how you found it and ask the tuner next time its tuned

^^ good advice. Just as a follow up, I did check it off no.1 coil and found no difference, but I'm in the process of fitting cam gears and new injectors so it will need a tune once done. Will put it back as it was and get the tuner to check it.

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