Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After forking out $1000 over the last few years for intercooler piping dump pipes exhaust systems to be fabricated i finially decided it was time to learn to tig and start saving my self some money(Not to mention a heap more tinker time, we all love tinker time).

I looked around at all the TIG options for the last month and decided a simple little 180amp DC TIG would do the job.

Headed down to WeldSmart in Perth's southern suburbs to buy my new toy. I must say the sales guy was good, I ended up walking out with a 200amp AD/DC Tig for a very discounted price.

http://www.weldsmart.com.au/welding-australia/tig-welders-gtaw/tig200acdc-pulse-200-amp-tig-pulse-mma-inverter-welder-new-euro-design

post-28286-0-60397300-1339920239_thumb.jpg

This is the same welder BOC sell for over $2000

The welder came with a tig tourch, ARC Lead and foot pedal.

Had a bit of a play with it the next night, using the left over MIG gas my mate had.

Here are our not very pretty extreme amature results:

post-28286-0-32701000-1339920760_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-75140800-1339920779_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-05607700-1339920793_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-81120100-1339920811_thumb.jpg

As well as the crappy welding I got some nice UV burns on my arms and slight warming up on the face. Lesson learned long sleve shirt is a must.

Spend the next night watching youtube videos and researching how to properly setup the TIG and learned the importance of working with clean materials. A simple wirebrushing is not enough.

So today armed with a bit more knowledge i managed to do a little better:

post-28286-0-82362100-1339921196_thumb.jpg

We also started modifying an old trolley that used to have a wodden top to be our new welding bench.

Here are some pics of a new steel plate being welded to the top of the bench:

post-28286-0-29427400-1339921339_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-72473900-1339921357_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-43906600-1339921374_thumb.jpg

Here is a pic of a longer weld ground down flush, You can see the weld penetrated pretty well:

post-28286-0-06154700-1339921391_thumb.jpg

I will update this thread in the next few days with the finished bench, as well as any other work I do.

Edited by Crans
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402764-the-start-of-my-welding-adventure/
Share on other sites

Welding finished on the table.

post-28286-0-80216500-1340031002_thumb.jpg

We didnt tack it down enough so the top warped quite a bit, not to worry its just a dodgy welding surface, atlease 1 half if fairly straight

A few more practive welds. Need to get better at moving faster and feeding filler without stopping all the time.

post-28286-0-55572300-1340031081_thumb.jpg

Havn't started using the foot pedal yet. Getting used to using the thing first. I suspect the foot pedal will weld with the slight holes at the end of some of the welds.

Basically it will just let you adjust amps on the fly, ATM i am just adjusting it on the machine

Connect up the foot pedal if your bench welding.

You actually want to slow down looking at some of those welds.

Slow down and allow the weld to pool properly before adding rod

Use the foot pedal and try to run a consistent pool along 3mm without filler rod. Once you can control the pool then start adding rod

Thanks for the tips I though i was going too slow?? That probably means im running too high amperage??

More practive thursday, can't wait for my 15amp socket to go in so i can bring the welder home.

Great to see you having a good cracking.

First thing before considering anything else, make sure the materials you are welding, as well as the tungsten and gas cup are clean. Doesn't matter what you do, if these aren't clean you will just frustrate yourself in trying to improve.

From there on, throw the filler to one side and just learn to run welds with no filler.....and go from there.

Cheers,

Ariel

There not looking too bad at all. What welder did you get?

Did a trial run today on modifying a turbine housing and connecting a waste gate to it.

We did not pre heat or slow cool the cast housing on this trial, but we will be doing it properly when my new t67 arrives this week.

post-28286-0-15295700-1340516889_thumb.jpg

post-28286-0-63273000-1340516913_thumb.jpg

There are a few cracks, but mistly after griding it down i can see it welded ok, will be better with the proper pre heating. the the test pipe was quite thin and was very easy to blow through it.

Here is an internal pic showing the hole cit in the housing, we didnt cut it as big as we should have after all it was just a test.

The mill used is old and wiggled too much so we ended up using a die grinder. Will probably take me 4 hours to properly grid out a 44mm hole, had to constantly wait for the aircompressor to catch up.

post-28286-0-26092500-1340516931_thumb.jpg

Hopefully will have a finished product by the end of the week.

There not looking too bad at all. What welder did you get?

Just got a basic ebay one http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rossi-3-1-Inverter-Welder-TIG-Cuts-Welds-S06-/230786697998?pt=AU_Welding&hash=item35bbf58b0e#ht_2788wt_1044. Seems to work alright just only downside is its not AC so cant weld alluminium.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My R33 never ran more than stock boost but it was unclear whether the turbos would last. Maybe OP's car is less of a question mark but for my stock turbos had over 175k km on them + 25 years of use. That's a very long time to hope nobody has ever accidentally put physical shock through them, no debris in the exhaust gas stream, no boost leaks that could cause the compressor to spin faster than it otherwise should, no oil coking in the journals, no wear scars for any reason, etc. You could pull the turbos and disassemble to inspect/overhaul as needed but for that kind of effort you may as well replace the ceramic turbine with something that can take a bit more abuse no matter what you find in there. Stock boost ceramic turbos really don't make that much power either.
    • A Pillar forward?   The part above I was just looking at was the reo bar, I'd replace it, UNLESS the panel beater is GOOD. From your early photos, it did look like the chassis might be tweaked, or at the very least there was tweaks in radiator support. I'd personally do a new / second hand unmolested reo bar, and drill it, only so I know underneath the pretty painted front bar, there's not a mess of other metal that's been hit and smacked.
    • Yes no yes. Pineapple rings do do a certain amount of subframe "locking up", in that they do add some resistance to lateral movements. But the primary reason they exist is to alter the driveline angle. Depending on how you install them you can either increase or decrease rear traction __ a little bit __ by changing the angle of the lower control arms relative to the car/pinion angle. The thing is, given what they are, how and where they are installed, their lack of engagement with anything in particular, there's a limit to how much benefit they can offer. The GKTech collars put metal into the space in the stock format bushes, thereby limiting how much give they have. The rubber is still there to take up some force, albeit perhaps preloaded a little by having some extra metal jammed up into it, but the increase in stiffness comes from making it so that the stock format bush can't deflect that large bit of rubber over into the space adjacent to it, in any direction. Top AND bottom. Which the pineapples certainly do not do. As I said in my other thread - I'm convinced.
    • Also, if you're into customizing your ride, you might want to check out tesla accessories model y for inspiration on screen integrations and functionality.
×
×
  • Create New...