Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day everyone

I have been looking around trying to find out information about Shockers for my newly purchased

R33 Series 1 GTS-T 4 Wheel Steer AKA HICAS.

Im pretty certain the shockers are stuffed, but im not sure what i can replace them with

I have read different information Saying that it will need Similar Shockers to a GT-R in the rear.

Can anyone confirm what Shock's i can replace mine with (fingers crossed just a Standard 2WS GTS-T will be fine)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/402971-r33-hicas-shockers-replacements/
Share on other sites

good but economical replacement is BC coilovers.

MSG 'boostn Imports' in the business trader section and he will know what you need for that car im sure

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/292008-bc-racing-suspension-kits-for-almost-every-model/

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'm hoping i can just get standard shocks, doing a fixer up on a budget, So will be more after second hand shocks that are compatible from someone who has upgraded to coil-overs

Kyb do new shocks to suit

Check part no.s on kyb website

Front something like 341287 rears 341222

The 4ws doesn't change anything in regards to shocks

Fronts are about 160 to 180 each. Rears about 140 each

Kyb excel g.

If you buy 2nd hand shocks they won't be much better than what you have. R33 are almost 15 years old now and most still running original shocks unless upgraded

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...