Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine:

•Bigport 4age lifted from ae82, rwd converted. Still has redtop covers.

•JDM 96kW ecu & JDM wiring harness. Neat wiring. Check engine light works. No error codes.

•JDM airbox (missing snorkel) & washer bottles.

•New rwd water piping.

•New rwd water pump.

•New rwd alternator bracket

•Alternator reconditioned last week.

•New silicon radiator hoses.

•New spigot bearing.

•Kaizen Garage extractors.

•Custom 2.5” underdiff exhaust, mandrel bent.Flex pipe, Hi flow CAT, resonator, sports silencer.Nice fit, doesn’t hang down.

Engine was serviced before install so no gremlins. Work included:

•Fresh spark plugs, filter & oil

•New O2 sensor

•TPS calibrated

•TVIS tested.

•EFI loom tested for continuity, no error codes.

•All sensors tested & working right (water temp, cold start, air temp)

•Genuine Toyota gaskets used for assembly

Drivetrain:

•JDM T50 gearbox and bell housing (clutch slave on driver’s side).

•T3 short throw shifter.

•JDM late model T-series diff, disc brakes.

•Cusco 2-way LSD, nice and tight.

•Button clutch by Western Clutch in Sydney. 4-puck, near new.

•Smallport 212mm flywheel, freshly machined & new Toyota flywheel bolts.

•New throwout bearing.

Suspension, brakes & steering:

•Tokico HTS102 dampers all corners. Best you can buy, all adjusters working.

•Cusco cambertops.

•Thick front swaybar, unknown brand, have whiteline rear swaybar needs to be installed.

•AJPS 8kg/mm front springs – fully captive

•Shortened falcon rear springs – fully captive

•Stock ae86 control arms.

•New T3 NRCA’s.

•New ball joints.

•New inner & outer tie rods

•New steering rack boots

•New urethane control arm bushes.

•Urethane trailing arm bushes.

•JDM power steering arms

•JDM vented front disc brakes & JDM calipers

•Rebuilt brake master cylinder

Interior:

•JDM pin stripe dash cluster.

•Full interior, good condition.

•Freshly re-trimmed door cards.

•Good condition parcel tray (blue, not brown).

•AJPS dash mat, black.

•dildo shifter

•small dished steering wheel.

•T3 spin turn hand brake knob. (drift button)

•Sony head unit but presently 4 " speakers

•Brand new remote mount battery in boot, fully sealed type. TIG’d stainless cradle to secure it.

•Wider accelerator and brake pedals

•Carpet replaced with new Knox auto carpet. Still have original carpet as well.

Uncracked dash

Has 2 black monza bucket seats (non fix back)

post-95754-0-76280300-1340342314_thumb.jpgpost-95754-0-02494600-1340342316_thumb.jpgpost-95754-0-07117900-1340342317_thumb.jpgpost-95754-0-53984700-1340342318_thumb.jpgpost-95754-0-09606800-1340342320_thumb.jpgpost-95754-0-38599300-1340342321_thumb.pngpost-95754-0-61798600-1340342322_thumb.jpg

Body:

•hole car recently sprayed white (everything beneath guards & bonnet).

•JDM fuel tank.

•New fuel pump (oem replacement).

•New “Toyota” rear tail-light centrepiece.

•JDM doors rust free.

•VGC hatch, rust free with demister.

•All guards well flared.

WHEELS:

15x8 -4 superlights some gutter rash

Comes with 2 25mm bolt on spacers so the wheels fill out the rear guards well (stick slightly out of guards)

THE BAD: rear right guard is cracked because the car rubs if you have 25mm spacers on the back and have people in the back.

call or text me on 0424 901 763 preffer text thanks izaac.

CHASING $10G may consider trades for something of interest, preffer cefiro, 4 door 32, rx7 fc (no commys or falcons) PRICE DROP 8 GRAND!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403125-clean-ae86-for-saleswaps/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...