Please Help Me With My Very Lazy Gt2860-9's!

[Don Dada]

Forget bleed valve all together and get a good ebc. Your results sound pretty similar to mine ie. 13psi by 4k,and I have yet to figure out how they rate acts, but I dont think you have 15/16 psi acts, probably the same 9 psi units like mine.

Anyway wind some more preload in there......

[tommis85]

Ah ok so you'd probably have the same kinda basic mods as me? They seem to ramp up very sharply after 4000rpm. What are you gonna do at your end to make them spool up a bit more than 13psi by 4k? Personally it's a bit too laggy...this feels like a big single lol, not twins

I suppose I could try adding some more preload...it's just that if I add too much it may spike over the max boost of 18-19 pounds that I want to run

[tommis85]

Don, further to that - yeh my invoice said 15.something pound acts but hey u never know, may have to check the serial number.

I wonder how people make 16 pounds by 3800-4000 with these 9's

[levinboy]

Don, further to that - yeh my invoice said 15.something pound acts but hey u never know, may have to check the serial number.

I wonder how people make 16 pounds by 3800-4000 with these 9's

What actuators are they?? i think i missed it

I am using the HKS heavy duty adjustable actuators like THESE

adjustable cam gears will help if you dont have them yet and a good ebc

In the end the tune plays a big part

[Don Dada]

Basically same mods except I havent installed my cam gears yet and run std R33 dumps, but I run a profecb2 and it does help a bit keeping the gates shut until target boost is reached.

My intention is to wind in some more preload and use the gears to bring it down further as I believe 16psi @ 4k is definitely possible, but that will be a while still due to some technical difficulties

I'll check this wkend to see how much preload I have on them now.

[tommis85]

Don, Levinboy,

Hey nah mine aren't quite as chunky as those. Mine are the ones that "apparantly" come with the -9's...they're definitely firmer than the 1 bar ones I bought for my N1 turbos. I dare say that somewhere along the line the springs do hold 16psi but I know for a fact that even the strongest actuators (under 20psi) will crack down low....ie, they will budge a little.

Yeh I do have cam gears installed by the tuner wasn't able to make them make positive numbers. He told me he was very quickly making negative figures so I believe they're dialed in very close to zero on intake and exhaust. But then it also didn't occur to my tuner to add more tension to the rods. It would appear to me, that they only knew how to work the efpos machine! ....can you tell I'm still very bitter about it all??

Yup, I'm hoping that a re-tune and dialed in camgears will move the whole show forward by about another 500rpm. I've already gained about 1000rpm by tightening the act's....now it's the tuner's turn! Unfortunately I don't have an EBC yet.

Don, I think I have about 10mm now...the outer end of the actuator just touched the boss that the flapper shaft/spindle passes thru. You'll see what I mean when you check yours

[Hadouken]

Can you please try a different tuner and then tell us if it is better?

[tommis85]

Can you please try a different tuner and then tell us if it is better?

That is the idea mate...was thinking Godzilla Motorsport. He only does tuning now...nothing else. One would assume he knows what he's doing and I've had him recommended to me a couple times now

Anyone want to make some donations to the cause?

[SiR_RB]

New tuner

+ ebc

+ cam gears

= winner

[XKLABA]

New tuner

+ A good ebc with stepper motor

+ adjust your cam gears

= winning

Adjusted, Fixed seens a bit incorrect and impolite as you are right, unfortunately I'd say you are going to have to fork out for a good EBC, preferably with stepper motor, as it will help keep the wastegate shut longer and help the turbos ramp up quicker, also by reducing the overlap of the cams it will let the motor make better use of what boost it gets and load motor up better which in turn turns turbos quicker, aswell by adjust when the exhaust valves shut will force the air out through the turbos instead of letting the exhaust pressure back into the engine

[tommis85]

Fixed, unfortunately I'd say you are going to have to fork out for a good EBC, preferably with stepper motor, as it will help keep the wastegate shut longer and help the turbos ramp up quicker, also by reducing the overlap of the cams it will let the motor make better use of what boost it gets and load motor up better which in turn turns turbos quicker, aswell by adjust when the exhaust valves shut will force the air out through the turbos instead of letting the exhaust pressure back into the engine

Yeh the more I think about how it all works the more I'm realising that I will need a EBC. Guess I should start looking around for one eh? It would be nice to make at least a nice solid bar by 4000...that should equate to some good streetability for everything below 4000.....and fun times above 4000

I wonder if the Haltech solenoid is any good? (I've got a E11)

[scotty nm35]

Just buy a MAC valve off ebay for $50, half the price of the Haltech ones. I have a few here but they have 24v coils on them. (new 12v coils are $30)

[levinboy]

Don, Levinboy,

Hey nah mine aren't quite as chunky as those. Mine are the ones that "apparantly" come with the -9's...they're definitely firmer than the 1 bar ones I bought for my N1 turbos. I dare say that somewhere along the line the springs do hold 16psi but I know for a fact that even the strongest actuators (under 20psi) will crack down low....ie, they will budge a little.

Yeh I do have cam gears installed by the tuner wasn't able to make them make positive numbers. He told me he was very quickly making negative figures so I believe they're dialed in very close to zero on intake and exhaust. But then it also didn't occur to my tuner to add more tension to the rods. It would appear to me, that they only knew how to work the efpos machine! ....can you tell I'm still very bitter about it all??

Yup, I'm hoping that a re-tune and dialed in camgears will move the whole show forward by about another 500rpm. I've already gained about 1000rpm by tightening the act's....now it's the tuner's turn! Unfortunately I don't have an EBC yet.

Don, I think I have about 10mm now...the outer end of the actuator just touched the boss that the flapper shaft/spindle passes thru. You'll see what I mean when you check yours

Did you buy the turbos brand new or 2nd hand?? as i know (in mycase anyway) i couldnt get them with actuators for some reason hence why i bought the HKS actuators. Some people re-use the std actuators and have issues, just to rule out all possible issues

The blitz ebc are good bits of kit just make sure you get the dual solenoid or spec r variant i believe, can pick them up reasonably cheap

That is the idea mate...was thinking Godzilla Motorsport. He only does tuning now...nothing else. One would assume he knows what he's doing and I've had him recommended to me a couple times now

Anyone want to make some donations to the cause?

Godzilla have a good rep from what i have heard anyway, Queenslanders jump in here thanks, NUR33 has his families white R32 drag car tuned there and the results speak for themselves

[Piggaz]

good streetability for everything below 4000.....and fun times above 4000

Stroker!!!!

[hypergear]

Once every thing tired and nothing makes a differences then you can have them removed send it to us for the FNT turbine setups which proven differences in response. I'm also personally interested to see the differences they makes on a GTR.

[Piggaz]

Once every thing tired and nothing makes a differences then you can have them removed send it to us for the FNT turbine setups which proven differences in response. I'm also personally interested to see the differences they makes on a GTR.

More info?

PM if you like!

[hypergear]

For example:

.82 rear housing using identical chra. Standard V Type A FNT.

Use above .82 Type A V Type B FNT

The power to response trade ratio after compressor maximization is 1:10 means the lost of every Kws can be converted to the gain of 10RPMs.

Take example that ATR43G3 CHRA is capable of making 330rwkws pump, how ever based on factory manifold and internal gate restrictions it can only archive 280rwkws, resulting a dead weight lose of 50kws. Assume the maximum power level this turbo can reach based on factory setup is 300rwkws, I can configuration the fixed nozzle in my turbine housing for it to max out at 300rwkws while trade the dead weight power for 300RPMs of response, as shown on type B housing graph above.

[tommis85]

Just buy a MAC valve off ebay for $50, half the price of the Haltech ones. I have a few here but they have 24v coils on them. (new 12v coils are $30)

Hey, that sounds alright. I had a quick look and there are a fair few on ebay. Will just have to check out how many people have used them and what sort of results they have been getting. But yes, the idea would be to let the E11 control it if possible rather than having a second little computer module for just boost control.

[tommis85]

Did you buy the turbos brand new or 2nd hand?? as i know (in mycase anyway) i couldnt get them with actuators for some reason hence why i bought the HKS actuators. Some people re-use the std actuators and have issues, just to rule out all possible issues

The blitz ebc are good bits of kit just make sure you get the dual solenoid or spec r variant i believe, can pick them up reasonably cheap

Godzilla have a good rep from what i have heard anyway, Queenslanders jump in here thanks, NUR33 has his families white R32 drag car tuned there and the results speak for themselves

Yeh mate I bought these two turbos brand new from a trader on here by the name of Boostn Imports. He matched the price of the local shops in town and also threw in some gasket and stud kits.

As for the actuators....I carefully checked both of them with a pump and gauge. Footpump to be precise because then you can hold the pressure wherever you want to etc. I made sure both of them open identically etc. They "appear" to be working alright with the extra preload but cannot put too much on because they'll just overboost then.

Yep, the whole situation is screaming.....EBC!!! However, I need to check them out first (hopefully it won't take me 3 months like with the -7 vs -9's ) and now MAC valves have been thrown into the mix too.

[tommis85]

Hypergear, thanks for your comments....however, I have been assured numerous times that I'll be able to make the 2860-9's come on hard down low. There's a thread on here that displays what they're capable off so I'm not going to adjust the geometry of the turbos just yet.

If all goes pear shaped and I don't end up happy with the end results (for some reason) I'll probably just step down a (small) notch to -7's which were my original choice till I saw how good the -9's go. However, I don't want to go there right now as I want to give these -9's a decent chance to impress! 1 bar by 4k is good...I'd be happy with that