Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

and here, we do not run E85 ;) we run 94.

Lol, you did brag.

Considering what sean posted, then you should get ahold of some e85, better than that 94 stuff you boys seem to run :P

dont laugh, my mate is making 286kw @ 14.5psi with gt-ss

Yeah on my built motor i made 280rwkw @ 1bar as well

seriously? I was at the tuner yesterday for 5 hours.. sure it must be a dream loll I just do not brag about my setup on the internet like some of you. I have nothing to prove and couldn't careless if you don't believe me.

but for the people really interesting ( because, yes I actually got 3 pms regarding this) about the -9, yes its possible ot achieve great number.

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

If you really "do" have that power, take it to the strip and run near 130mph.

I bet you don't get any better than 124mph :)

End of the day mate -9s aren't going to flow 380rwkw @ 18psi, that's the simple truth.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

Edited by tommis85

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc. just a standard RB26, nothing else. Add bolt-on power adder and he could easily break the 500hp marks.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Edited by cobrAA

Already did. Last intervention in this thread.

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you'' . Well, unless you pay the plane to ship my car and me to australia, unfertunately, you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

Look at some japanese setup, they can achieve 600whp with gt-ss.

We're just all very astounded that's all mate. Like Piggaz asked, do you have any examples to load up? Even some video of your own car in action?

Edited by tommis85

Jing R34 GTR

http://blog.nengun.c...26-tuning-world

The Jing R34 GTR has been slightly modified with Tomei and Reimax internals and two low mount HKS GT-SS turbo's. Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps this GTR has been perfectly tuned for the street. Volk Racing CE28N wheels cover Brembo Monoblock brakes and Ohlins DFV suspension.

The concept from Jing was to retain the standard engine and easy maintenance and combine it with improved power, torque and appearance. While mildly modified, this R34 looked great.

at 18psi he managed to make 467hp but he doesnt talk about any cam and cam gear tuning etc etc.

Okay I'm seriously done here. do your own research, I did 3 years ago, and I'm 100% happy that I went with gt-ss instead of -5 or -7

Either way, even if hks gtss can make 380 odd kw, a bigger turbo would make that much eaiser and less stress on the internals.

Though do you have hks gtss or -9s. Even though most say its the same dam tubo, There is a comp sheet thats shows otherwise. but thats not the real point here

Edited by sydking

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

So where are you at with your ride these days Sydking? From memory you were in my boat with too much lag? I've ended up sorting out my actuators and am just waiting to get my diff's sorted and possibly get an EBC of sorts

Did he tune it?

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

True, I also referred back to the dyno comparisons spreadsheet on here and the -9's (GT-SS section) average at 303.1kw at 18.3psi which is exactly what I'm aiming for.

Maybe Cobra was running ridiculous boost? Some guys get around the 330-340kw mark with 22psi....but even that is still 40 odd HP short of 500. Not sure how far the -9's can be cranked but if you can run R33 N1s up to 25-26psi then I'm sure you can do that with the 9's as well....and that might be getting you quite close to say 360kw even though there'd be more heat created than anything else....guess it depends on where the -9's sweet spot is.

There'd always be some people out there who push parts to or past their limits....like Xkalaba and his ceramics :yes:

CobrAA said 18psi

If he said 28 psi than I would believe him....maybe

But for now I still maintain mostus dynos (mustang excepted)

Over inflate by approx 100hp to what we see here

Generating 1.3kg/cm2 of boost and producing 467ps

That's 340kw... which is nowhere NEAR 600hp. PS is also measured at the motor.

So 340kw, minus drivetrain losses... It's under 300rwkw (at the wheels).

Do you know how to convert?

I'm just trying to help out the folk considering buying the GT-SS and all I get is whining and '' your a liar'' i don't believe you''

you will never see me rollin on your drag strip.

You don't have your own drag strip?

Doesn't matter where the drag strip is, you'll never run more than 124mph - and if you do run 128-130mph, i'll gladly eat my words that you can make 380rwkw @ 18psi on pump gas.

End of the day a turbo can only flow, what it's compressor wheel will allow in terms of airflow. Simply put, at 18psi you cannot make 380rwkw on pump gas. The turbo's are not flowing enough air to do so on a 2.6ltr motor. It's simple fact mate regardless of what you have printed on a piece of paper.

Yes i tuned it. Theres a few bits of info that have not been told with the setup. 2 main factors are built motor and higher comp.

Also all my dyno runs are done in 4th gear. Piggaz had the same question about the end speed with my GTR. I have alot of mechanical sympathy so i dont like to rev the engine to redline on the dyno. Most runs stop around 7000is maybe 7500.

Ah, I assumed you went to 8000 RPM man. Maybe I missed that bit.

Never assume anything haha

Seems like people in here wanna make 20psi @ 3000rpm and make 350kw at wheels LOL

Not me lol gees...I'm hoping to run around 18 pounds for now and make around 280-300kw. I made about 270kw with my N1s so am hoping to improve on that a bit.

Which reminds me, I should throw them up on here for sale :D

Hoping to have mine at about 25 psi,

Though if its not making much extra power past 20 then theres no real point pushing them in my books

The bloke who owned my built engine before me was running GT-SS's and he reckons it made 355rwkw at something 26-28 pound (can't remember the exact figure). Tuned and built by Creatd in Vic, so dunno if their dyno is happy but it was impressive

Edited by GTR_JOEY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...