32 GTR mods on a budget

[Whoneedstherapy]

Hey guys, i've basically got a 89 model 32 gtr and i'm tossing up spending about 6K or so on it. Basically im looking for a nice quick streeter, but also something that will handle the occaisional track day. So far the mods are as follows

brand new stock clutch

HKS pods

front pipe

cat back

Brake master cylinder stopper

slotted discs

good pads

coilovers

oil cooler

avs 17" rims

front & rear strut braces

a few guages etc

basically i'd like some opinions on what i should go for next. I'm kinda split 50/50 at the moment between changing the turbo's or just looking to optimise what i've got, ie cams,ecu,fuel pump, injectors etc.

any feedback welcome

[Laurence]

$6k... spend it on, coilovers, strut braces, oil cooler, entry fees, brake pads, tyres, fuel and oil.

If you are hitting the track the biggest performance upgrade you can get is practice.

Unless you can lap as fast as Mark Skaife then I would suggest doing as little as possible to increase the engine power of what is already an old and powerful engine. Also the R32 is underbraked as it is, and you have to upgrade so many other things on it when you get more power.

Just remember that the car will be chewing through rotors, fuel and tyres.

Then keep saving until you have $20k and you can start having some fun

[G0DF4Th3R]

dun get a brand new stock clutch wont last long

[Whoneedstherapy]

dun get a brand new stock clutch wont last long

yeah i wasn't planning on it, but the clutch it's coming with is a stocker and it's slipping like buggery so the place im getting it off has put a brand new stock clutch in there. I figured it'll hold for a few months or so, it's a weekend car anyways.

[predator]

The first thing you should do before going down the upgrade path.. not to be rude or anything, is to get the engine fully checked out, compression tested, leak down tested, turbos checked, etc. Timing belt replaced, oil flushed, etc. That may set you back $1k, but it will be piece of mind.

But before spending all the money you have on mods, just make sure the basic mechanicals are not likely to go, or no signs they are developing signs of weakness. No point going for massive power when cylinder x or something is already way down, as its just going to blow the engine that much more quicker. Once the mods go on, and maybe something big goes.. that $6k might be needed.

That's what I'd be doing. Once you've done that and sure you have a good base to work with -- go sick!

[lwells]

Personally I would get a PFC to lean out the A/F mixes and get some "free" power. Plus, no matter what you add in the future, the PFC will be able to optimse it; infact, if you decide to go bigger turbos, etc you will need an aftermarket ECU anyway, so why not get it now?

LW.

[rev210]

1) look at how many kms the car has already done.

2) Check all the components that will be reasonably knackered by the kms they have done.

3) save to replace them when they fail (and they will).

I reckon you won't have too much change from the $6k over the next two years from just ordinary replacement of worn parts.

Make more power = motor doesn't last as long (it's a kind of law of engines). On a very worn motor this means you will have months of enjoyment before a rebuild as opposed to years (maybe) if you go leaning out the AFR's and turning up the boost.

I'm in the same boat since my good old RB26 has done over 230,000kms. Out of respect I'm trying very hard not to be tempted into increasing it's power (i was naughty and bolted an adjustable cam gear on though). Instead I'm going to do a few little things like a lightweight flywheel to improve the accelleration without further stressing the old motor (and save for a rebuild).

Generally RB26 engines go 100,000kms and then shortly afterwards need a rebuild, mines been very well looked after but, I expect it to die any moment.

[Gav]

1) look at how many kms the car has already done.

2) Check all the components that will be reasonably knackered by the kms they have done.

3) save to replace them when they fail (and they will).

I reckon you won't have too much change from the $6k over the next two years from just ordinary replacement of worn parts.

Make more power = motor doesn't last as long (it's a kind of law of engines). On a very worn motor this means you will have months of enjoyment before a rebuild as opposed to years (maybe) if you go leaning out the AFR's and turning up the boost.

I'm in the same boat since my good old RB26 has done over 230,000kms. Out of respect I'm trying very hard not to be tempted into increasing it's power (i was naughty and bolted an adjustable cam gear on though). Instead I'm going to do a few little things like a lightweight flywheel to improve the accelleration without further stressing the old motor (and save for a rebuild).

Generally RB26 engines go 100,000kms and then shortly afterwards need a rebuild, mines been very well looked after but, I expect it to die any moment.

Some sound advice there Rev.

My '93 GTR gave up the ghost pretty fast after strapping on a big pair of low mounts. In hindsight - should have done some diagnostics first and then could have saved duplicating some of the labour going into my present rebuild.

[Whoneedstherapy]

1) look at how many kms the car has already done.

2) Check all the components that will be reasonably knackered by the kms they have done.

3) save to replace them when they fail (and they will).

I reckon you won't have too much change from the $6k over the next two years from  

thats fine, as i said before, the budget was for modification, not for ongoing maintenance which is sorted out. I am well aware of what these things cost to run and maintain.

The first thing you should do before going down the upgrade path.. not to be rude or anything, is to get the engine fully checked out, compression tested, leak down tested, turbos checked, etc. Timing belt replaced, oil flushed, etc. That may set you back $1k, but it will be piece of mind.

I have a budget for this and it's all being catered for.

Generally RB26 engines go 100,000kms and then shortly afterwards need a rebuild, mines been very well looked after but, I expect it to die any moment

is that 100,000kms aussie or 100,000kms jap? because according to my odometre i'd still have 45,000kms to go on the latter wear indicates closer to 130ish

[franks]

if you're going to be doing some trackdays i would recommend pulling out the engine and getting a gated sump baffle and oil gallery restrictors. the strong word around town is rb26's pop quite easily because of dry sump issues...

$6k is quite alot of money for mods, having said that im sure you could spend it very quickly i'm considering the same thing as you if i were to sell my GTT. the aforementioned is exactly what id do. infact....this r32 gtr is exactly what i want...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34652

[Whoneedstherapy]

if you're going to be doing some trackdays i would recommend pulling out the engine and getting a gated sump baffle and oil gallery restrictors. the strong word around town is rb26's pop quite easily because of dry sump issues...

$6k is quite alot of money for mods, having said that im sure you could spend it very quickly i'm considering the same thing as you if i were to sell my GTT. the aforementioned is exactly what id do. infact....this r32 gtr is exactly what i want...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=34652

hey franks, i bought that white one that you test drove

[franks]

how much dude?

you mean this one?

[Whoneedstherapy]

how much dude?

you mean this one?

too much. It was a mutually agreeable end to an awkward situation due to the other similar white 32 that was there being built by some sea hunt's and being an abortion of a thing after 10 months of work on it.

[franks]

luke, is that you???

i've heard stories about that...............id love to have a yarn with you about it

[mickr32gtr]

my advice is to prepare the groundwork - replace the plugs with platinums, regap to .8mil, check and replace the timing belt if necessary, adjust the timing to make sure u dont have any detonation due to a loose timing belt, especially with a 32 GTR. I bought mine last year and it was sluggish and totally stock. I changed the plugs as described, changed the timing belt and did an engine carbon clean. Once you sort that out and yr sure there are no probs with the heads, turbos and cooling system (pressure test is vital), the key is to get the air in and out of the engine fast with no restrictions, so change the filters (as you have done) using proper aftermarket stuff designed for the GTR, like HKS rampods. Use a full 3 inch exhaust system to remove backpressure (the standard system has 7 baffles and can cause up to 4psi backpressure at 5000 rpm!). Finally, install a fully programmable ECU like the APEXI Power FC, up the boost to just under 1 bar (safe level) and dyno. Your car will then rip the rubber off its tyres. Those are the things i did in that order and in 1st gear on a launch at 5000rpm all 4 wheels spin off the mark for about 5 meters on standard rims. Bang for buck? the full 3" exhaust, Power FC, AVCR Boost controller, HKS filters and dyno tuning cost me $4,600.00 ($1,500 for the Power FC, $550.00 for the AVCR near new, HKS filters $200.00, Hi Tech new exhaust $1,800.00 dyno costs approx $600.00 total). Timing belt was genuine Nissan for $120.00 and carbon clean (3 full flushes) about $250.00. Result? Standard 150kw at all 4 wheels to 210kw at all 4. Happy as Larry

[rev210]

*do not to use platinum plugs, they are a waste of money.

*do not to use the poisonous mushroom HKS filters, they filter beach sand and nothing finer. A K&N or piper cross panel filter replacement is good enough and you save a hundred on the 'rice' pods with no heat sheilding.

*pull the boost restrictor plug out of the vacume line to the factory boost controller, will give you a little under a bar of boost, costs nothing.

[Whoneedstherapy]

Thanks for all the help guys, I've pretty much decided on a course of action.

I'll let everyone know how it goes once im sorted with it.

[mickr32gtr]

*do not to use platinum plugs, they are a waste of money.

*do not to use the poisonous mushroom HKS filters, they filter beach sand and nothing finer. A K&N or piper cross panel filter replacement is good enough and you save a hundred on the 'rice' pods with no heat sheilding.

*pull the boost restrictor plug out of the vacume line to the factory boost controller, will give you a little under a bar of boost, costs nothing.

I disagree. The plugs last for about 3 times as long as ordinary plugs, allow for a better spark and are recognised by every professional and GTR tuner ive ever spoken to. As for the HKS filters, if you care to look on the reverse side of the mushroom, you'll see a fine sponge type element underneath similar to the pipercross material. There is also a cold-air intake behind the passenger side headlight which should take care of any 'heat soak'. Pulling the boost restrictor out allows for volatile boost fluctuations. Its dodgy and causes boost spikes above the 1 bar 'safe' limit, so if you dont care about yr the possibility of yr turbor's failing, thats cool. If u own a GTR and yr gonna be a tightass about plugs, boost control and other aftermarket equipment, sell it and buy a WRX or something which doesnt require genuine race equipment.

[rev210]

mickr32gtr,

Plugs. I yet to see a platinum plug outlast a copper plug by a factor of 3 (3 times what may I ask?), considering they cost 5 times as much I think....sorry, I know you are wasting your money.

As for better spark I'd like to point out there is no evidence what so ever to demonstrate improved performance on that claim.

So you 'asked' a couple of performance tuners. I base my recommendation on years of personal experience and I happen to know a few very good tuners who recommend coppers over platinum. Strangly enough I don't know of any who would say platiums were worth the $, I'm sure there might be some I just haven't had the pleasure of meeting them yet to discuss their ideas on the matter.

The cold air intake is great if the cold air is forcably directed into a cold air box. If it's left open it's rather ineffective. better than nothing but not by much at all.

Pulling the boost restictor and retaining the factory boost control as I mentioned provides stable boost, it may not hold as well as an EBC at higher rpm but, it's certainly not going to spike over 1 bar. Plenty of GTRs have done this and it is commonly regarded as a simple and effective modification. I'll be happy to present a boost curve for you once I get a dyno done but, I can assure you there's no issue.

If your going to own a performance car period you need to start learning the basic point of efficient modification.You ought to learn how and why things work or spend lots of money based on other peoples intentions. I'd rather do it the easy way.

Last time I saw something about 'genuine race equipment' it was in refference to a 'rice boy' BOV. Does this mean if I'm not prepeared to be a rice boy I should buy something else?