Thinking Of Buying An R35...key Differences Between My09, 10, 11 & 12?

[Marko R1]

It is a good topic Ryan & as we both well know, the effort required to crack the 400awkw mark with an RB requires a long list of mod parts which is a convoluted pain in the butt!

The R35GTR on the other hand achieves this with a midpipe, cobb & intake...this for me is 1 of the major attractions of the new generation GTR (alongside the other technological advancements it has to offer)

Chalk & Cheeeeeese

Edited June 27, 2012 by Marko R1

[domino_z]

The R35GTR on the other hand achieves this with a midpipe, cobb & intake...this for me is 1 of the major attractions of the new generation GTR (alongside the other technological advancements it has to offer)

not quite

you'll need the sugar juice (which also means injectors + pumps) to crack 400

or you can just ask the tuner to turn their dyno up to 11

i made 388 awkw with 98ron and full bolt on's on Martin's heartbreaker mainline

Edited June 27, 2012 by domino_z

[Marko R1]

mainline from what ive experienced personally are relatively tough in terms of dyno numbers

your boost pressure seems very low (16psi?) - is this due to the fact that you dont want to run a higher boost/keeping it safe?

btw - those torque numbers are MONSTROUS, thank you Mr Capacity

[domino_z]

torque numbers wouldn't be corrected i dont think

re boost i left all that to Martin's tuning - pretty sure that's all you can ask of the stock turbos to keep them within their safe operating limits

my cobb accessport datalogs show boost peaking at 18+psi

Edited June 27, 2012 by domino_z

[Marko R1]

388awkw on a 'low boost' setting with 98 is incredible with only minimal supporting mods required

[domino_z]

18 pound would be high boost for stock turbos and that is pretty much every bolt on you can do - downpipes, midpipe, exhaust, injectors, intake, turbo inlet pipes, fuel pumps, bovs.

there's more headroom in those mods but limit is now the stock turbo

....maybe minimal gains by switching to a speed density dyno tune which is my next move

Edited June 27, 2012 by domino_z

[ecl]

Bit late to the party but I agree.

For me, the factors for my purchase was (in order of importance): Price - Condition - Colour

I have an 09 and personally it doesn't phase me that I don't have some of the luxuries such as auto lights/wipers etc. I currently have them on my BMW and I currently have them set to Off.

IMO, the MFD would be the biggest reason for justifying the 10 over the 09 but I did not see the need (based on what I was looking for in a car) and rather spend them on other things. Resale was also not a priority as it is used as a DD so I am prepared to have higher KMs and less resale value later down the track anyways.

I still have a few more months of warranty left (late 09 model) and then will tune and mod further (itching to as I am now already used to the car/power). I personally wouldn't be able to justify voiding the warrany on a 10/11 (assuming it has another 1--2 years of warranty left) in case something breaks.

[Marko R1]

Bit late to the party but I agree.

For me, the factors for my purchase was (in order of importance): Price - Condition - Colour

I have an 09 and personally it doesn't phase me that I don't have some of the luxuries such as auto lights/wipers etc. I currently have them on my BMW and I currently have them set to Off.

IMO, the MFD would be the biggest reason for justifying the 10 over the 09 but I did not see the need (based on what I was looking for in a car) and rather spend them on other things. Resale was also not a priority as it is used as a DD so I am prepared to have higher KMs and less resale value later down the track anyways.

I still have a few more months of warranty left (late 09 model) and then will tune and mod further (itching to as I am now already used to the car/power). I personally wouldn't be able to justify voiding the warrany on a 10/11 (assuming it has another 1--2 years of warranty left) in case something breaks.

is there a visual comparison of the 09 MFD v's 10 MFD? I'd like to see the actual difference here...is it just the resolution quality or is there a functional/feature difference as well?

[Martin Donnon]

Hi res vs Lo res mate

(Note JDM also had the Hi res screen in all years)

[skiids]

not quite

you'll need the sugar juice (which also means injectors + pumps) to crack 400

or you can just ask the tuner to turn their dyno up to 11

i made 388 awkw with 98ron and full bolt on's on Martin's heartbreaker mainline

Hey Domino, just curious with the full bolt ons 388kw is good but theres plenty of US tuners on NAGTROC pulling over 400 with same mods

Out of interest have you taken it out to the strip to see what numbers you can pull?

[domino_z]

chief difference is the dyno's and corrections used for the marketing thread glory on nagtroc - bigger is better and sells as such

car's are also quicker down the strip/in mags given all the correction factors, roll-out etc used

here's a dyno log Martin did with US style correction factors - full bolt on e85 producing a US tuner like ~670awhp

Edited June 27, 2012 by domino_z

[Martin Donnon]

chief difference is the dyno's and corrections used for the marketing thread glory on nagtroc - bigger is better and sells as such

I remember when we were the first in the world to run an 11 second pass in an SST transmission Evo X

Some of the guys on US message boards were adamant it was simple in Australia as due to our equatorial proximity, and being upside down, everything weighed less in Australia. True

[domino_z]

Martin your key advantage was that the fuel was being pushed through the injectors in a clockwise flow rate due to the coriolis effect... and every tuner knows clockwise fuel flow gives you better 60ft times

I called one tuner (forum sponsor) out for dyno'ing his gtr in rwd only and he argued it made no difference to power figures - he was consequently rejoiced and hailed as the second coming for just cracking 1000awhp on a dyno with the least amount of mods - sales would have spiked that week

So does my car make 422awkw on e85 or as per doctor'd graph above 499awkw on e85 - that's up to the op

Edited June 27, 2012 by domino_z

[Marko R1]

What is the limiting factor on the OEM turbos running up to 18psi? Do they simply loose efficiency due to their size?

I am guessing that they steel wheel/ball bearing units

[Marko R1]

my mate just bought a new my2012 gtr in black - picks it up tomorrow.

he is going to take me for a drive but i told him not to bother until its run-in (needs to put 2000km on it) - he has a heavy foot & highly skilled driver (races a superlap r32gtr)

might be my biggest mistake going in this car as it will expedite my upgrade path hehe

[Wardski]

he is going to take me for a drive but i told him not to bother until its run-in (needs to put 2000km on it)

I've just done 2000kms on mine, seems to rattle just the same as when I bought it with 43kms on the clock.. These cars are run in on the track @ Nissan before they're exported.. you do realise that don't you

[Marko R1]

In that case, I better remind him

[Wardski]

In that case, I better remind him

Of course Nissan recommends you follow their break-in proceedure, but no harm in a little spirited driving as well. Probably the only thing I didn't do during the first 2000kms was launch it.

[GT-R OZ]

Wardski sounds like your R35 is a garage queen, let me know you're ready to offload it.

[rehab2010]

not quite

you'll need the sugar juice (which also means injectors + pumps) to crack 400

or you can just ask the tuner to turn their dyno up to 11

i made 388 awkw with 98ron and full bolt on's on Martin's heartbreaker mainline

Is it possible to crack 400awkw's with the DBA's on 98/100PULP - didn't get get slightly bigger turbos then CBA's?