Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I have a question.

My base timing is set at 20 btdc by my tuner, and im sure it was 20 degrees before this, but I have just put on a ross balancer, and whenever i pull stuff apart I disconnect CAS so as to check everything over before re-connection and starting. Now I had a tune 1000 ish kms ago and I had Adjusted CAS previous to that to 20 degrees, he checked it and locked it into the ecu, and said it was good. However when I adjusted it, I hadnt tightened the bolts right up. 2 loose and 1 just nipped up a bit. All would be good but i may have moved it when disconnecting. So I tightened it up where it was. Check timing and its at 15 degrees, now the only variable is the balancer marks, My old one looked ok, I thought it might be rotated a little but seems fine. Now i trust the ross one is perfect.

So having retarded timing (i think) i figured no damage can happen, so i went for a drive, I only take it out every few weeks so I didnt notice any power difference. However I did a 4th gear pull right out and it had the odd cough feeling hesitation on full boost a couple of times and throughout the drive. It never has before.

So ill get to the point, is there a way to tell where it should be vs where ecu thinks it is?

Would the ross timing marks be perfect with stock balancer?

Just need some confirmation I dont want to set it at 20 and it be wrong. Im sure iv just bumped it around a tad but not sure if theres a way to make certain so I hope someone can clear this up.

Oh and I wasnt doing the 4th pull on the public road either. It was a local private air strip.

Thanks in advance

Thats what I have done, but im getting a different reading now with new balancer, im not sure if balancers are a bit different with readings or iv accidentally moved cas. Im thinking number 2

What ecu have u got! If ur base timing was 20 degrees btc then u had a tune, if u have a sftermarket ecu and the tuner has advanced the timing via the ecu to make more power then there is quite a chance that it wont be 20 degrees' all timing marks on any balancer should b as good if not better thsn standard.

Bedt bet would go to ur tuner and get a touch up tune just to b shure!

Im no expert though but thats what id do!

A tuner would rarely adjust the timing around idle unless there was a timing problem. There is no gain from advancing timing in these cells

Adjust your base timing back to 20 degrees if this was where it was set

I would go back no worries but its a 600+ km drive to do so.

If everyones confident the marks will be spot on I will just set it back to 20 degrees. Just sucks I didn't tighten it up properly!

I will contact tuner tomorrow and check but im dead sure it was 20 on balancer.

Just needed some confirmation thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest option, find a NEO head. Put in good springs, decent cams, and send it to the moon. I rev mine to 8600RPM, gets me about 232km/h down the main straight at SMSP bouncing off the limiter in 4th. I've never dared to grab 5th 🥲
    • Gday mate, Personally in my car i run 450kw in an s2 rb25 so also hydraulic lifters and have always run it to 7500 RPM and using some baby 256 poncams with new but stock springs and retainers. While i cant speak on any experience with solid lifters i personally have had no issues with my hydraulic lifters which were just cleaned and set in an oil bath before assembly over 7 years ago. Over 8k RPM is cool IMO and if you are using the stock gearbox or just a box with longer ratios the higher rpm certainly could aid to maintain boost into the next gear as that was always something i struggled with as i have a 3582r also but a hypergear equivalent could aid that issue. In summary i would make a choice on the cam you want to use first then decide which springs and retainers work best with it and then you can toss up if you really need the solid lifters, if the car is mainly street i would learn towards keeping the hydraulic lifters as when installed properly and nothing too hektik going on around them they do the trick.  
    • Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
×
×
  • Create New...