Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

not that i know off??

I have bought a set of rims and they arent sitting the same as the exact same items on my old 33 GTR. I cant understand why... just need some comparisons.

And if anyone is running 18x10 +18 id love to come over and just see how they sit

Its going into a suspension place today to check it out for me, camber etc. But to the naked eye it doesnt seem to bad... i mean on my last GTR the rims sat around 3mm inside the gaurds. these sit a solid inch!

I may have found the problem. Has anyone ever heard of this. The place measured the offset and said it's around + mid to late 30s and not +18, even tho they are clearly marked +18?? This would explain a lot but I've never heard of this happening before? ? ?

Does anyone else have XD9s in this size?

I may have found the problem. Has anyone ever heard of this. The place measured the offset and said it's around + mid to late 30s and not +18, even tho they are clearly marked +18?? This would explain a lot but I've never heard of this happening before? ? ?

Does anyone else have XD9s in this size?

Maybe they have had the mounting face machined down at some stage.

Make sure that they measured them to the tyre bead not the edge of the rim, 12 mm isn't much difference.

Yer I just got home and measured it myself. The rims right, they were wrong.

Back to square one....

Does anyone in Adelaide have a stock 33 Gtr that would allow me to test these rims front and back on?

Or better yet have a set of 18x10 + 18s on a 33 Gtr?

Really need help guys...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to come I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...