Removed Boost Restrictor - R33 Gtr Question

[Booki]

Hey everyone,

I had been doing some reading about the little restrictor in the boost solonoids yellow hose, So i decided to see if mine was in there. And yep it sure was.

So i removed it and took my car for a drive, and wow what a difference...!!

The car ran so much cleaner, smoother, boost came on earlier and harder. Overall just had more power.

But...being a stock r33 gtr is it ok to run with the restrictor out on stock turbo's? or will they go kaboom...

I put the restrictor back in, because i felt i should play it safe.

Is it safe for me to run my car with this little olive lookin bugger out of the hose? Or should i keep it in? I don't have any aftermarket boost gauges so i am not sure if its running at a safe level or not. But isn't that what the solenoid is for? To keep it safe?

[scotty nm35]

The solenoid bleeds off air to raise the boost, it can only bleed so much with the restrictor in place. You can drill it out for a boost gain but I wouldn't suggest it on the stock turbo's.

[Booki]

Dam...Was afraid somebody would say don't do it on stock turbo's

[Moodles2]

Taking the restrictor out brings the boost pressure to about 14.7psi, is within the limits of a stock ECU. Whether you leave the restrictor in or not, stock turbos can let go either way.

[nomnomv8]

1 bar on the stock turbo's isnt a problem mate

[scotty nm35]

Until one lets go.

[R31Nismoid]

Exactly. It's always a risk even @ 14psi

Pretty slim @ 14psi (most seem fine), but your gamble, no one else's

[XKLABA]

I pulled the restrictor out of my 32 the week I brought it, 10 years ago, a year after that I fitted a boost controller and have run 15-16 psi since for daily driving with the occasional spurt at 19psi, have replaced the first set cause the bearings went

the stock ecu will run 19psi and on which I ran 11.9

driving style will kill turbos faster then the boost level run

[Booki]

Hmmm...

So i guess, i can take the restrictor out, but just don't hammer it all the time, it seems you guys are saying they can still blow even on the stock boost. May as well have some fun with them before the inevitable happens.

It is my daily, so i think it would be driven fairly nanna compared to most, I didn't even hit boost on my way home today ...!

I'm still deciding what turbo setup i want to go to, whether it be just a rebuilt kit for the stockies or something complete.

[XKLABA]

Hmmm...

So i guess, i can take the restrictor out, but just don't hammer it all the time, it seems you guys are saying they can still blow even on the stock boost. May as well have some fun with them before the inevitable happens.

It is my daily, so i think it would be driven fairly nanna compared to most, I didn't even hit boost on my way home today ...! your not a true gtr owner, sell it and buy a camry, I can't even get to the end of my street without boost

I'm still deciding what turbo setup i want to go to, whether it be just a rebuilt kit for the stockies or something complete. turbos depend on use, street only then -9s are the way to go, street with occasional trackdays -9s, GT-SSs or T517Zs with 8cm rear, street with the ocasional drag run -5s, 2530s or T517Zs with 10cm rear

[SiR_RB]

i was running 14psi with my stock r32 gtr turbos for over 1 year, no issues what soever, only used for street duties so they didnt see alot of heat like they would if it was tracked...later upgraded and they had zero shaft play and were in perfect condition

though ive herd people on here blow em with not much effort

[nomnomv8]

Just to add to the comments of a few of the other guys here its just luck of the draw i guess.

I was running mine on 1.15bar for an excessive amount of time dare say ~3 years and when I later pulled them out turbos had no shaft play and where in very good overall condition. Alternatively ive heard cases of them blowing at 6 months use on 1 bar also..

Your right foot is your boost controller mate and if your not flat stick every time you jump in your car chances are you will be ok, in saying that if your unlucky the risk is always there..

[Booki]

your not a true gtr owner, sell it and buy a camry, I can't even get to the end of my street without boost

Ha ha, Well in my defense, the temp's havn't gotten to where i like them, I think i am just over pedantic about my car.

I wait till coolant/water temps are at normal and the oil is at least 70degree's (going by the stock gauges in the gtr) before even hitting boost.

I appreciate all the comments fellas and have come to the decision its a gamble regardless it is in or out. More so if its out, but driving style has alot to do with it.

I took it out last night and went on my normal commute this morning no problems (XKLABA - Don't worry i actually hit boost...and man the extra boost is nice!), I guess if the worst happens. Stay on the throttle to keep bits of shit from going into my engine.

In the mean time with holiday's coming up, I want to look at replacing the Turbo's, adding a electronic boost controller and getting a tune.

Looks like http://www.nengun.com is the place to buy everything, although I didn't think turbo kits were so pricey.

Is APEXi Power FC's still the way to go for a tune? Or should I be looking at something else?

[nomnomv8]

Ben,

Its all up to your individual goals and aims of the car. How much power do you want, what are you going to be using the car for, what fuel?? etc..

Although nengun is a good website you will find that there are many local sources, business traders and private sellers who will provide you with a better price and a prompt delivery (2-3 days after purchase as opposed to the weeks it takes from nengun).

If your happy with the way your car drives now response wise and just want to be able to boost it safely with a little more power then go for the Garret -7 or -9s. In saying this I have no idea what modifications you have already done to your car but I am assuming that you know that you will also need to upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and AFM's (if your still using AFM's, again goes back to the first question of what the car is going to be used for).

Changing the turbo isnt as simple as buying the $2000 or so dollar units and putting them on in your engine bay. Have you done the clutch in your car? If not that will need changing too.

[Booki]

Ben,

Its all up to your individual goals and aims of the car. How much power do you want, what are you going to be using the car for, what fuel?? etc..

At the moment, I am thinking a long term goal of around 300-350rwkw. But in all honesty, just trying to get the best bang for buck mods for my car at this stage, because it is my daily ride for the moment. Performance for the Dollar is what i am looking for. Along with reliability, and hey if fuel economy can be looked into fantastic...otherwise I didn't really buy this car to save on juice.

Although nengun is a good website you will find that there are many local sources, business traders and private sellers who will provide you with a better price and a prompt delivery (2-3 days after purchase as opposed to the weeks it takes from nengun).etc..

I will have to look into some local source's and see what i can find! Been keeping my eye on the for sale section in the forum's but ill be honest. I am not really sure what i am looking for other then a good deal.

If your happy with the way your car drives now response wise and just want to be able to boost it safely with a little more power then go for the Garret -7 or -9s. In saying this I have no idea what modifications you have already done to your car but I am assuming that you know that you will also need to upgrade your injectors, fuel pump and AFM's (if your still using AFM's, again goes back to the first question of what the car is going to be used for).

etc..

I personally have not put any mods on the car, but the mods that have come with the car from memory are;

Ganador Exhaust - Looks like a 3/3.5 inch.

HiFlow Cat

HKPS Pods

Still using AFM's - Stock

Stock Injectors, Fuel Pump/Rail

Other then that, I believe everything is still original.

Also this will sound stupid but - wtf does -7, -9 mean? I am confused when people state these figures. Is it to do with turbo lag? or size of them? (initial thoughts..)

Changing the turbo isnt as simple as buying the $2000 or so dollar units and putting them on in your engine bay. Have you done the clutch in your car? If not that will need changing too.

Well thats a big let down, was hoping i could just start tinkering with it over my holiday's and with a bitta help from the old man we could swap them out. We are fairly mechanical minded. Although new to turbo cars.

Clutch has not been replaced, I am pretty sure my thrust bearing is out too (get that annoying whine when clutch is out and in neutral). I figured once the clutch gets worse ill change it, but if i am ordering parts/planning mods I will have a spare to go in as i have read they get chewed up fairly quick with extra power.

Edited June 25, 2012 by Booki

[nomnomv8]

325awkw which is smack bang in the middle of your goal is very achievable with the -9's.

As for -5, -7, -9 and -10 they are simply just the Garrett GT2860 turbo range. Theres a few threads that explain these in greater detail but essentially the general consensus is stick to the -9s (HKS GT-SS equivelants) for the best response vs power trade off for anything up to 330awkw. The -7's that i mentioned before are simply the N1 turbos ie steel wheel as opposed to ceramic.

As for your clutch that whine sound is typical of a twin plate clutch so you never know you might actually have one in there. If i was in your shoes i would:

1. Get a fuel pump (Nismo drop in would be best and easiest to install if your doing it your self, a bosh 044 will do as well and save you some $$$)

2. Get bigger injectors

3. Electronic boost controller (nothing too fancy dont go spending $900 on something that a unit half the price can do)

4. Nismo AFM's (100% direct replacement for factory units)

5. Get a ECU (PowerFC will be the easiest and most cost effective imo as theres a crapload of them going second hand for a good buy. Plus seeing as its a street car your still running AFM's so you can get away with "I just have an exhaust officer thats it" in the case you get pulled over)

6. Garrett 2860-9 Turbos

7. Tune car and enjoy

If the clutch shits itself during Step 7 or a week or 2 later then obv that will need changing too. Aside for that thats a pretty basic and rough guidline you can always add more if you like but thats pretty much your bread and butter for changing the turbo on a GTR.

As you can see its a rather expensive hobby

[Booki]

Thanks for the reply!

And your not wrong about it being expensive

What is the difference between the -9 and -7? Is one more restricting then the other? I take it the -9 is the better turbo?

If (one day) i decided to want more then 350kw's, would the turbo's be my limiting factor?

I just feel that if i spend about 3k or what ever they are worth now, and want more. I will only have to spend it all over again, rather do it once and just leave it be. Even if the initial cost is reasonably higher in the beginning.

[Moodles2]

The reason why we call them -5's, -7's, -9's, -10's etc is because it's the postfix to the common part number. The part numbers are: 707160-5, 707160-7, 707160-9 & 707160-10. The is no logical order (-5's are the smallest while -10's are the biggest or vice versa) to the turbos, it's just easier to use the postfix to refer to these turbos.

-9 (aka HKS GT-SS) are a tweaked design of the -7 (R34 N1) turbo by HKS. -7's are exactly the same as R34 N1 turbos while -9's are exactly the same as HKS GT-SS turbos, to say the Garrett GT2860 range have steel wheels is inaccurate since the wheels are made from Inconel (steel + nickel) so stronger and lighter than oldschool steel wheels.

In terms on response, -7 and -9's in my opinion have slightly better response than stock turbo (well R32 GTR units anyway). As for comparing -7's and -9's against each other, some people say -7's (older design) are slightly more responsive while others say -9's (newer design) are more responsive. As for power, you will get more flow (power) from -9's. It's generally accepted -9's can see up to 320kw while -7's about 300kw.

-9's are slightly more expensive because they don't come with actuators, but you would probably want to put adjustable actuators on them anyway. -7's do come with non-adjustable actuators but they are 14.7psi (1 bar) actuators from memory.

[XKLABA]

Ha ha, Well in my defense, the temp's havn't gotten to where i like them, I think i am just over pedantic about my car.

I wait till coolant/water temps are at normal and the oil is at least 70degree's (going by the stock gauges in the gtr) before even hitting boost.

I took it out last night and went on my normal commute this morning no problems (XKLABA - Don't worry i actually hit boost...and man the extra boost is nice!), I guess if the worst happens. Stay on the throttle to keep bits of shit from going into my engine.

don't worry about me I'm just shit stirring

I don't move the car till the water temp needle moves and with the setup on my 32 I can get full boost (16psi) by 2800rpm so even light throttle gives me boost

This is some good advice I am just going to add some stuff

325awkw which is smack bang in the middle of your goal is very achievable with the -9's.

As for -5, -7, -9 and -10 they are simply just the Garrett GT2860 turbo range. Theres a few threads that explain these in greater detail but essentially the general consensus is stick to the -9s (HKS GT-SS equivelants) for the best response vs power trade off for anything up to 330awkw. The -7's that i mentioned before are simply the N1 turbos ie steel wheel as opposed to ceramic.

As for your clutch that whine sound is typical of a twin plate clutch so you never know you might actually have one in there. If i was in your shoes i would:

1. Get a fuel pump (Nismo drop in would be best and easiest to install if your doing it your self, a bosh 044 will do as well and save you some $$$)

or a genuine walbro quieter then the bosch

2. Get bigger injectors, if you get the ID1000s then they will cover you past 350awkw

3. Electronic boost controller (nothing too fancy dont go spending $900 on something that a unit half the price can do) when it comes to these you get what you pay for, I have tried a few different ones and now only use HKS EVCs

4. Nismo AFM's (100% direct replacement for factory units), if you already have pods them I'd go the Z32s with the Apex'i pod kit to suit ( that is what I have on my 32 )

5. Get a ECU (PowerFC will be the easiest and most cost effective imo as theres a crapload of them going second hand for a good buy. Plus seeing as its a street car your still running AFM's so you can get away with "I just have an exhaust officer thats it" in the case you get pulled over) this

6. Garrett 2860-9 Turbos and this

7. Tune car and enjoy , tuning is a important part, I would do alot of reseach about the tuners in your area and go have a chat with some and see how you get on with them

If the clutch shits itself during Step 7 or a week or 2 later then obv that will need changing too. Aside for that thats a pretty basic and rough guidline you can always add more if you like but thats pretty much your bread and butter for changing the turbo on a GTR.

As you can see its a rather expensive hobby

[Booki]

Cheers XKLABA!

Been doing some quick reading on the above advice, and i have a few question's (lol..)

1. The bosh fuel pump, isn't a straight swap is it? What kind of modifying is involved to put it in?

2. Nismo vs Z32 AFM's. they are the same unit arn't they? Just physically different? I already have HKS Pods on my car, so does it mean they will go straight on? (The Z32's, they are heaps cheaper)