Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all just bought a r34gtt the last owner took it for a wash and got the coil pack wet i let it dry out it runs fine now but some times at low oraround 4k revs when boosting it has a spitting noise from the back cold or warm dos not matter just geting old do u think i need to replace the coil or?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403392-r34gtt-spitting-underload/
Share on other sites

hey stock boost i think its like 1 bar dont realy know how to read the stock 34 gauges but it gos all the way to the 1 it only has a dump pipe and no havnt cleand the meter and would that be the sensor in the pipe with the pod filter? sorry new to skylines

lolol didnt wont a auto but couldnt afford a manuel and i seem to give em more when in a manuel + gota drive to town daily so meh yer man il go over ti tmozz i think cuz they got wet yesterday prob need a good warm day to let them dry up if not new coils ant that bad first upgrade haha

http://www.justjap.com/store/search.php?mode=search&page=1

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=splitfire+r34

^^^ Check these out ^^^ or Ebay.

Fitting is free cause you DIY.

Airflow meter is the tubish type thing after the pod/airfilter. Search on here to find how to clean it.

A bit of the correct spray in the right place.

First time I test drove my car, the guy had gotten water in the coils, Sounded a bit like that but was waaaaaaaaay worse. Pretty much undrivable.

I would say, Dry those suckers out real good, see if it changes anything, go from there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for advice chaps   so you would change idler and tensioner bolt as well ? I guess because you thinking they have stretched once ?   i have done some research and on nissan belt and seem to hold 700hp but thinking HKS to be on safe side   i think I put nissan there last time   also thinking of changing cam cover to glass style:)
    • Nissan/Pitwork is fine stuff. HKS is just marketing wank. I personally wouldn't do the idler if it is already new. If it looks and feels fine, it is fine. But as D says - it's cheap to add it to the job. The water pump ditto. Even more so. If it show no signs of problems, then it is nearly new - leave it.
    • 1. I can't see a location on your profile but you do mention GBP so I'll assume you are in UK. In Australia, CBC make a timing belt kit with the gears and idler and tension bearing and that is what I use without any problems. I'm sure OEM or HKS are also fine but I wouldn't pay extra for HKS over anything else. 2. Yes, I would always change the idler and tensioner and the stud and bolt that hold them in. Assuming they were all done last time it is highly unlikely you would have a problem, but they are very cheap to add to the job considering the time it will take anyway.  3. No, you don't need to lock them as such (I think that is more for engines without timing marks), but you should make sure they move as little as possible once the belt is off as you can hit pistons on valves if they move too far. As always, make sure you line it all up to top dead centre with the timing marks aligned before you take the old belt off.
    • How to wreak havoc at a bogans party... Swap out the goon bag hanging from the clothes line with oil bag... Watch chaos ensue during Goon of Fortune....
×
×
  • Create New...