Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

another thought is that the shifter is a little offset from the normal SR box position and more forward, we customized the shifter to get it into a better position and it could be as simple as me needing to change gears better and when i try to change quickly between 3rd and 4th i am slightly off causing the crunch.

What do you mean by customised??

And i'm with birds on the oil thing, redline is a waste of money. I only run 75-90 in mine and never have problems

Redline is a great product when you have a hard lifed gearbox with buggered synchros that you want an extra 15-20k of smooth driving out of. Used in a healthy gearbox, it's a waste of money.

How does the stick feel?

With the car off, try 3rd to 4th a few times and see if it catches.

I say this because 2 threads down the list is this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402989-is-this-normal-shifter-movement/

Looks like stick alignment can have an impact on crunching.

Mine is a reco box (previous owner spent $1800). Never saw a track day while he had it with stock power.

Crunches 4th like the stocker boxes ive had previously. Sometimes even on light load on the way back from a track day. Same as the stockers.

He was using mineral, after some crunching I changed it too redline. Didn't make it go away, but its noticabley better. The stocker boxes used motul.

I just put it down to a combination of shift style and loading...

i dropped the oil today and used a chux cloth to filter out any potential filings, i did pick up a bit of sludge of very fine particle's over the sump plug and after using my chux draining system switched to a pot filter from bunnings and ran the oil again through this to pick up anything else.

I have put some full res photos up here as you kind of need to see the fine particle's to understand what i am saying.

http://200sxweb.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/gearbox-crunching-4th_08.html

Particles are likely shavings from the new bearings in a new gearbox. You need to change the oil after 1000km of running in a new or reconditioned gearbox because of this, or they end up doing nasty things to the oil and consequently the box - another reason Redline is a waste.

Put a reco gearbox in my R33 GTS-T last week, running $20 of 75w90 mineral oil, not a crunch in sight :P

Do have to remember that these were built to a certain specification as street vehicles for driving on the street - once you start modifying the vehicles or driving them in any manner that isn't daily driving, expect crunches and noises to start happening...

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...