Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It will be softer coming onto boost running just the actuator. Using a manual boost controller will see it come on a bit harder and gives you adjust ability

I honestly dont see why you don't just get one of those turbotech eBay boost controllers. Plenty of good reviews and its not expensive

Turbotech is crap from my experience. Go with the stronger actuator, you wont get defected for it (paint it black) and it will give you a much better outcome.

If you are good with your hands you will be able to make a bracket to suit, take some pictures if you get the Kinugawa as i'm sure more people will be heading down this path soon. ;)

Turbotech is crap from my experience. ;)

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

I had the original turbotech and it seemed OK...

what was your dramas with them? i did back to backs on all the boost tees and the turbotech works the best hands down, with gfb in last..

Perhaps on rb's and with hd actuators fitted already? I found the bleed hole was way too big. They are nothing on a HD actuator though, especially if the manifold pressure is getting up there, as it just blows the puck open.

The Turbosmart one seemed a little better to me, (smaller bleed hole) but a good electronic boost controller gave a noticeable gain. Personally I would run both a HD actuator and a good EBC.

Here is the info on the actuator. Just for anyones info if they are looking to do the same. I have ordered mine.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280892958327?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Yep, and use new hose. Take some pics for us on the fitment and quality, I was interested in these actuators myself as I want to modify it for a push and pull setup.

Make sure you check it doesn't overboost before you get on it hard.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...