Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

So as some of you are aware i had the intermittent 4WD light on my m35 since i got it. Used to come on about once a month. Though the last 2 weeks its every day. Just wondering should i care?

I am not really fussed if the car runs in 4WD or RWD mode as long as its not causing damage.

Does anyone know the root cause or where to start troubleshooting this issue? If it's an easy fix ill do it.

The only thing i have done recently is change the gearbox oil though i doubt that's related.

Appreciate your help gents.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403668-4wd-light-now-permanently-on/
Share on other sites

Gearbox oil as you said isn't related. You really need to see what codes it's throwing up.

Even if it runs just rwd it still ends up wearing the clutch pack in the transfer case over time and you'll end up with a chatter and or vibration from it. With the attesa ets we have they can't be left in rwd mode permanately without transfer case damage. I've only found all this out while researching my attesa problem as I was going to leave it permanately rwd.

damn.. anything i can buy? will a nissan dealer be able to do it? or do you know the name of the units that work? thanks for the info mate!

On the C34 Stagea the attessa ecu shows error codes via a flashing light. The only problem is that the attessa ecu is in the boot behind the lining and can't be seen!

I'm curious with this too!

I have a C34 that was originally auto but the previous owner pretty badly converted it to manual and slowly but surely we're fixing the crappy job he did (had to change the gear box after it died 2 weeks after buying the car, turns out he barely had any screws or bolts holding the bugger in!!)

But my AWD light will come on when I'm just sitting at the traffic lights? any causes for that, is it doing damage to my car?

My partner is a diesel mechanic / auto elec so we will eventually get around to fixing it but for now I'm just wondering if its doing any damage to the car?

Madcat it all depends on what fault code your getting but if it's switching the pump off then it will promote clutch pack wear in the transfer case as it won't have enough load on the clutches.

Like most things the quicker you get onto the problem the less wear/damage it will do.

It depends if you like rwd...

I wouldn't want to leave it for more than a month or two, there was a fair bit of crap in the splined hole of mine when I decided to refit the shaft, took a while to clean out and regrease.

i had a rare start without the 4WD light on the other night so took it for a thrash in the wet. Lots of 4wd kicking in. Been for 4 drives since and no more error!

I guess its true. use it or lose it :)

lol anyways hope it's gone will post again in a week or so.

  • 2 weeks later...

hmm.. now that the light is back to intermittent.. (usually happens every 4th start or so) will i be able to see the error on a scan tool? or does the 4WD light have to be on for it to register on the tool?

its quite odd. i am finding the gearbox change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd to be pretty rough when the 4WD light is off (4WD is working). Though when the light is on (RWD only) the gearbox is smooth as silk.

Strange..

May consider changing it to RWD permanently.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Mine is still coming on.. every other day.. usually when its cold though not always.. Car still drives sweet either way though..

took it to Import Factory at Nunawading they told me there was an error though no error code.. (doesnt sound right does it?)

They said they cleared it and checked the points though next day it was back.. they also said it could be to do with the wheel size and rubber profile.. (really??)

I run ARX rims with 245 45 18.. seems close enough to factory to me.. though interestingly enough the light did come on around the time i changed the rubber on them from 235 50 18

not sure what to do now.. maybe just pull the drive shafts...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • NoS, 2 of the big ones.
    • Oh, that's grim. Something bad has been happening there.
    • Put an endoscope down the hole and saw this. Not quite all around the bore but a good 60% at least. Chin to the chest and towards further disappointments I guess.
    • 2 does "sort of" applies, maybe......but looking at what parts would be needed for the swap to get engineered, registered, and insured, and basically that's everything under the car, the modifications the make it legal would be problematic and horrendously expensive, all for a street car that just cruises around and hits a few twisty roads on the weekends Also, from looking at the NSW rules and Regs, with all modifications that is required just to make the car safe and not twist itself to pieces, and then actually get registered for street use, may still be impossible nowadays As for 1, when you add in a fresh engine, fresh transmission, rear cradle and diff, tailshaft, suspension, brakes, cooling, and all the other fabrication required, your probably looking at up to $100k to do it right, all for a 20 year old MX5 that is over engineered and you would never be able to actually use the power it has on the street, much like your beastie, which I love, but you actually track that thing and can use all of its powers in anger, in a safe environment  Hell, the old Bogan Cruise Ship had more power than I could use on the street, and in hindsight, I went a bit silly on that thing, it didn't really need the 500hp it had for what I actually used the car for, it was fun, but basically unusable on the street if you value your licence  As for cams, yeah, I'll probably book it in for them to get installed and tuned soonish, like next month after MX5 Mania are back at work....... and yes, I've already sent a email to bin the turbo quote and quote instead to install cams and a new Fluidampr balancer that will suit the 2.5 better than the OEM 2.0 balancer that is swapped over for the 2.5 install, as the balancer needs to get pulled to time the cams it's a while your in there sort of thing I did think a bit about flex fuel for a laugh, but being na, and no where really around locally anymore to get E85, I've binned that idea, so no sweet sweet corn smells are set for the car I wish E85 was more of a standard fuel, it's better for the environment, better for tuning, plus that sweet sweet smell we all love As for fitting in the family, that's not needed, as everyone in the family already owns a car that can seat 5 humans comfortably enough, the MX5 is "my toy" As for buying a car that is already built, nah, I would rather pick and choose my parts, I enjoy the process, and in the big picture, the additional cost is well worth the enjoyment, and the occasional frustration, I get out of doing it, albeit with other people spinning the spanners, and me, just paying the invoice 🤣
    • Excuse me, but 2) does apply 1) Would also apply if you consider how much is spent in the alternatives. Also there's the option of 3), buy one pre-built that you can put your family in (it's me, it's my car)   That said, I went on a ~500km drive the other day. I didn't use anything more adventurous than 3rd/4th gear at about ~3000RPM and 50% throttle and I was going as fast as anyone has any sense doing on a public road, with enough grip to the point where I didn't want to go any faster. I was obviously under the limit of the current car etc etc. MX5 with 2.5 N/A to achieve the same speed would be more fun for any road scenario. Maybe consider cams. I wouldn't boost it. The use case is just not there and it won't actually make the car more enjoyable unless you really do plan on wringing gears from 1st to 3rd (at least) at 100% WOT on a public road to 150+kmh.
×
×
  • Create New...