Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 speed conversion buddy. Should have done it last time the box melted. Its a shame loosing the AWD but the weight saving alone will make it all worth while I think.

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

A= BFS - numbers in map are too low. Low numbers = slow shifts; but don't know how you'd go about changing that since your injectors are controlled by F-con, correct?.

6 speed sounds like the best solution for you though.

Shifts are fast but the time it takes to decide is a joke. Usually it just bounces off the 7500 limiter on wot, not good at this power. Plus the gearbox won't drop in to a lower gear until the shaft speed has slowed enough, it's horrible changing gears in corners...

Added to the usual crappy reaction times, the box can only do 2 laps of PI without overheating, and causing weird transmission faults.

Not much point if it cant hold the power, even if I could fit the PM35 box. I'm not going down the 33/34 GTR box either, a whole can of worms.

As the easiest, most logical and cheapest option I decided on the 350Z box. At least I can swap back if I ever need to... But I will be leaving the console handbrake. ;)

Rather than clutter this Attessa thread I will start another to discuss it.

  • 4 weeks later...

so i took my baby to kewish (thanks scott). Error came up as 4WD Actuator Relay C1205.

Sounds relatively inexpensive :) (i hope).

Anyone done one of these? Advise on where it is and part number would be appreciated.

Thanks gents.

Go to page 20 in the attachment, in the picture marked A the smaller item on the left labeled "E-TS アクチュエーターリレ" is the E-TS actuator relay. It's basically just beside the 4wd ecu, below the attesa fluid reservoir which is all in the boot wall behind the storage thingo on the drivers side.

I :wub: Google translate.

TF - Transfer.pdf

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402973-m35-attesa-ets-pressure-switch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesa...witch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

My prob sounds very similar to that post except i'm not getting the pump chirping. Also when my light comes on i loose 4wd all together(which is fun in the wet haha) i would say 90% of the time its ok, and seems very spiratic when it fails, just seems to fail at any random time.

You could try getting your battery tested I know that these cars seem to start acting strange when the battery starts to go. Otherwise I would try the multimeter tests mentioned in the service manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, just wanted to let you know about an app I use to track the modifications, repairs, servicing etc I do to my R33 GTR. You might like to use it as well. I'm biased because my son just wrote and released it! But I think you might find it useful to... https://trackmymods.com  
    • Hey everyone, been on here for a while, but never introduced myself before. 1st import was a R32 GTS Type M, then R33 GTS, now R33 GTR - each one sold to help pay for the next one. Over the years my son has seen me modify and do changes to my imports and was one of the reasons for him to build an app for car enthusiasts like us. (He can only afford a 2007 Honda at the moment, but he'll get there!) Anyway, bit of a proud Dad moment as he's released an app that I use and you all might like to as well. https://trackmymods.com  
    • It will sound tragic and you wished you didn't have 1x exhaust per turbo. There's a reason why most S55 owners change to a single mid pipe.
    • Echo the comments about the well preserved condition it's in. It has the aero bumper too for extra points. Nice car, and please keep it like that! 🙂
    • 1. There are no real performance benefits. It sounds different, and as the pipes are not as large diameter you can claw back some undercar clearance or run lower (if that's your thing). 2. Twin pipes, offering exactly the same cross sectional area as a single pipe** will have higher pressure drop - so will not flow as well. That's because there is more surface area of wall per cross sectional pipe area, hence more frictional losses. ** But of course, it is almost impossible to get 2 pipes that are exactly the same XS area as a given typical single pipe. eg, 2x2" is not the same as 1x 3", although it is close. If the 2x pipes add up to less XS area than the single - it will just be flat out worse. If the 2x pipes add up to a bit more than the single, then it might come out as a wash. If the 2x pipes are substantially more XS area than the single, then it will probably flow a little better. 3. No. Why would there be? What have cats got to do with boost creep?*** ***But for f**ks' sake, please run a cat. 4. If you want.
×
×
  • Create New...