Jump to content
SAU Community

4Wd Light Now Permanently On

Sage222

By Sage222,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

6 speed conversion buddy. Should have done it last time the box melted. Its a shame loosing the AWD but the weight saving alone will make it all worth while I think.

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

Commsman Veteran

Commsman

Posted
Posted

I'm so over the auto, why won't it just shift when I tell it to...

A= BFS - numbers in map are too low. Low numbers = slow shifts; but don't know how you'd go about changing that since your injectors are controlled by F-con, correct?.

6 speed sounds like the best solution for you though.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Shifts are fast but the time it takes to decide is a joke. Usually it just bounces off the 7500 limiter on wot, not good at this power. Plus the gearbox won't drop in to a lower gear until the shaft speed has slowed enough, it's horrible changing gears in corners...

Added to the usual crappy reaction times, the box can only do 2 laps of PI without overheating, and causing weird transmission faults.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Not much point if it cant hold the power, even if I could fit the PM35 box. I'm not going down the 33/34 GTR box either, a whole can of worms.

As the easiest, most logical and cheapest option I decided on the 350Z box. At least I can swap back if I ever need to... But I will be leaving the console handbrake. ;)

Rather than clutter this Attessa thread I will start another to discuss it.

  • 4 weeks later...
Sage222 Rising Star

Sage222

Posted
  • Author
Posted

so i took my baby to kewish (thanks scott). Error came up as 4WD Actuator Relay C1205.

Sounds relatively inexpensive :) (i hope).

Anyone done one of these? Advise on where it is and part number would be appreciated.

Thanks gents.

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

Go to page 20 in the attachment, in the picture marked A the smaller item on the left labeled "E-TS アクチュエーターリレ" is the E-TS actuator relay. It's basically just beside the 4wd ecu, below the attesa fluid reservoir which is all in the boot wall behind the storage thingo on the drivers side.

I :wub: Google translate.

TF - Transfer.pdf

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402973-m35-attesa-ets-pressure-switch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

Brick Mentor

Brick

Posted
Posted

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch

圧力SW

or

圧力スイッチ

There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help.

There is also this thread http://www.skylinesa...witch-problems/

What symptoms are you having?

My prob sounds very similar to that post except i'm not getting the pump chirping. Also when my light comes on i loose 4wd all together(which is fun in the wet haha) i would say 90% of the time its ok, and seems very spiratic when it fails, just seems to fail at any random time.

pomnz Enthusiast

pomnz

Posted
Posted

You could try getting your battery tested I know that these cars seem to start acting strange when the battery starts to go. Otherwise I would try the multimeter tests mentioned in the service manual.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Getting a decent signal from all 6 throats is a challenge. I don't know for sure, but I suspect that the stock balance tube is not ideal for it. I have done it on an ALFA 4 cylinder (about 35 years ago, so don't ask for too many details). We drilled 4x holes in the manifold runners, put in some fittings and ran hoses to a decent sized (I think it was about 20mm diameter) pipe that ran the length of the inlet manifold. So, it was quite a decent volume. There is a "tuning" balance to be found between the volume of the common plenum on such a thing and the diameter of the pipes running from it to the runners. You need the volume to be large enough to damp out the sharp spikes in pressure signal you get as each runner gets sucked on by its cylinder, but not so large that it becomes too slow to respond to actual changes in MAP. And you need the hoses to be small enough to transmit the signal quickly, but not so small that they delay the signal. You might have to have more than one go at it, if there isn't any actual success based wisdom to be had here. Hopefully there is. Anyway, I would not do it on only a couple of cylinders. I would also not care about "permanently modifying a part". Just bloody drill holes and make stuff better. There is nothing sacred about any GTR unless it is a genuine museum piece that you shouldn't be modifying at all anyway.
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The strange thing is this is a URAS front bumper (or clone of it). The bumper actually does not sit flush with the GTT hood - You need the addon to make the hood 'long' enough to reach the bumper. I have no idea why they didn't incorporate this piece into the bumper itself.. instead of sticking it to the hood instead.
    • AdiR34
      R34 GTT front hood lip

      By AdiR34 · Posted

      Another thought on this OLD topic: When you paint your bonnet lip, leave a small unpainted back lip/line along the back of the lip, where it rests on the bumper. That way, the line in the back is much more prominent than the gaps in the front/under the lip - and it breaks the hood-to-bumper connection at the "correct" place, when comparing to a GTR. I'm gonna do this with mine this week, so stay tuned for pics!
    • Radical_Goodspeed
      Potential MAP Reference Point

      By Radical_Goodspeed · Posted

      So I'm in the final stages of assembling my single turbo RB30/26 and had a question regarding MAP reference points.  I've seen several recommendations such as tapping the cylinder 2/3 ITB, tapping the intake manifold at cylinder 2/3, or using a point on IAC. First two are doable but require permanently modify part and the third is "out" as I plan to delete the IAC.  All that to say my question is can I used the "bleeder" in the center of the ballance tube as a MAP Reference? I'm running a catch can so I don't need it for the PCV system. My thought process is it "pulls" from all 6 cylinder, and it's between the ITB and the cylinders making it ideal for MAP reference according to what I can find. Thoughts?
×
×
  • Create New...