Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Every1,

I have a R34 GTR and I put a Odyssey PC925 battery in it a few months ago.

The car has not been driven for a week and the battery has died.

My car has a standard alarm on it, dont think it would be draining the battery?

It also still has the standard factory Nissan stereo system in it.

Does anyone know if this is normal for the Odyssey PC925 to drain after a week? Or is my battery defective?

Any advice or info is appreciated.

Thanks.

Edited by iwanta34gtr

Normal for the Odyssey to self discharge, I had one for a while then I got a work ute and the car would sit around for 5-7days and the battery would go flat, and as much as they are a deep cycle they can only do it a few time before they died for ever, I would suggest a isolation switch if the car is going to sit around for a lenght of time even if you put a normal battery in it

you can get one from autobarn or the like that goes on the battery terminal and you just have to turn the knob and it disengages

Could be anything, you might not have closed the door properly and the interior light was going.

Need a multimeter inline with the battery and the positive terminal to see how much millivolts are being drawn to know for sure if something electrical drained the battery.

Exactly the same issue we had with the Evo.... Battery was fkd after a bit... Replaced it with the same battery and used the Iso switch and it's now ok.... BUT I recall a thread where Ash said they are garbage, I'd be searching for that

Hi mate,

Thanks for the reply.

That was my initial thought too however I recall the interior lights were off.

Will be interesting to confirm though when I jump start the car to see if any of the light switches are in the on position.

Exactly the same issue we had with the Evo.... Battery was fkd after a bit... Replaced it with the same battery and used the Iso switch and it's now ok.... BUT I recall a thread where Ash said they are garbage, I'd be searching for that

Nice to know im not alone.

I was under the impression that Odyssey was one of the best batteries you could get?

It cost me a fortune.

Nice to know im not alone.

I was under the impression that Odyssey was one of the best batteries you could get?

It cost me a fortune.

Exactly what we thought... And had to buy another as the box was built around it... A lot of money for a lot of dissapointment... Google battery's on SAU as u will find the thread where I posted then Ash did...

Thanks guys, just disconnecting or trickle charging is another option.

I called battery world today and they said that its still got just under 3 years warranty. So i guess that is piece of mind.

If only the battery was a little bit easier to access.

I'll second the rubbish call, replaced it with a normal battery and never looked back

Nothing wrong the Odyssey batteries, the last one i had lasted over 11yrs (accroding to the build tag)...same as any other high quality battery...they just don't like been left for long periods without a charge...again the same as most batteries.

I replaced my Odyssey with another Odyssey (although i went for the PC12xx)

Be careful with placing a normal (wet cell) battery in the boot. For one its illigal without ventilationa and 2, if it leaks it could cause a fire = no more gtr.

as terry, Ant and others stated, trickel charge is the way to go.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402368-34gtr-battery-recommendations/

and here's Ash's comments...sorry Ash... but this is like your view on the n1 pump saga, a couple of bad experiences doesnt mean there a crapy item....it comes done to how you use them.

Nothing wrong the Odyssey batteries, the last one i had lasted over 11yrs (accroding to the build tag)...same as any other high quality battery...they just don't like been left for long periods without a charge...again the same as most batteries.

I replaced my Odyssey with another Odyssey (although i went for the PC12xx)

Be careful with placing a normal (wet cell) battery in the boot. For one its illigal without ventilationa and 2, if it leaks it could cause a fire = no more gtr.

as terry, Ant and others stated, trickel charge is the way to go.

as I said once I stopped driving it on a daily basis it became a problem, if I left it for a week it was flat, this doesn't happen with a the lead acid battery for about a month. as for the Odyssey batterys going flat, the supplier told me that is normal for them as they are a deep cycle battery so either drive the car more frequently or get a charger and charge it before I want to drive it

so for a second or even third car they are not ideal so I stand by my previous statement, rubbish and add expensive rubbish

I get about 5-6 years out of all my lead acid batterys and at about 1/3rd the cost I know what I'd rather

as for legality of a lead acid battery in the boot, it is fine in a GTR ( I have only looked into it for a GTR so is probable the same for other cars ) because there is a solid divider between the boot and cabin, where an issue arises is when they are put in a hatch where it is just a parcel shelf seperating you from the fumes created from it charging as you drive, aswell as that the 33 and 34 GTRs ,as you would know owning a 34, have the lead acid battery in the boot from the factory and 2 that is why they must be solidly mounted but more so it doesn't short out on the car body then incase of fire from it leaking

why go to the expense of the dry cell battery and a trickle charger when a lead acid will do the job as good for a fraction of the cost

as I said once I stopped driving it on a daily basis it became a problem, if I left it for a week it was flat, this doesn't happen with a the lead acid battery for about a month. as for the Odyssey batterys going flat, the supplier told me that is normal for them as they are a deep cycle battery so either drive the car more frequently or get a charger and charge it before I want to drive it

so for a second or even third car they are not ideal so I stand by my previous statement, rubbish and add expensive rubbish

I get about 5-6 years out of all my lead acid batterys and at about 1/3rd the cost I know what I'd rather

as for legality of a lead acid battery in the boot, it is fine in a GTR ( I have only looked into it for a GTR so is probable the same for other cars ) because there is a solid divider between the boot and cabin, where an issue arises is when they are put in a hatch where it is just a parcel shelf seperating you from the fumes created from it charging as you drive, aswell as that the 33 and 34 GTRs ,as you would know owning a 34, have the lead acid battery in the boot from the factory and 2 that is why they must be solidly mounted but more so it doesn't short out on the car body then incase of fire from it leaking

why go to the expense of the dry cell battery and a trickle charger when a lead acid will do the job as good for a fraction of the cost

Thats your opinion and i gave mine.

And just to clarify, yes i should have said that 33/34gtr its perfectly legal for wet cell in the boot, however as for other cars/skylines that have had a conversion done, it is not.

Edited by wedge_r34gtr

Hi Every1,

Thanks again for your replies and help.

After jump starting the car this morning and driving for 20 or so minutes, I've started the car 5+ times with no worries.

I went to battery world today and got the battery health checked and they said its perfect.

Battery world told me it was probably an issue with my leads or something else with the car as the battery was fully charged when I brought it to them (and they said it wouldnt have had a chance to fully charge in the 20 minutes i drove it there). The guy at battery world also said I should be able to leave the car for a month or so before i'd experience the issue I described. Bit strange, not sure if this is accurate?

Anyway, I will invest in a trickle charger and go from there.

Also thank you for the hint about the positive in the engine bay, this will simplify the process.

Edited by iwanta34gtr
  • 3 months later...

Update:

Had this fixed a few weeks ago, some of the additonal security features in my car were not wired properly causing a drain.

Touch wood, has been great since.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...