Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Nice to know im not alone.

I was under the impression that Odyssey was one of the best batteries you could get?

It cost me a fortune.

Mine failed after a year with dead cell

If its not a grey import it should have a warranty ??grey market no warranty at all

a stuck relay can draw power

easy to put a meter on it and yank the fuses watching it for current draw

If you dont do a long drive weekly it will die ? buy a trickle charger designed for agm cell batteries

Or any battery will be dead , on GTR your current has to travel to the front and 925 is enough with big wiring , factory not so much

My agm battery with long drive weekly at speed , stereo etc off it becomes a bit sluggish if its cold out but still cranks decent , hot its is still strong for weeks even with massive draw of mutiple layers of security

Edited by Carbon 34

Thats your opinion and i gave mine.

And just to clarify, yes i should have said that 33/34gtr its perfectly legal for wet cell in the boot, however as for other cars/skylines that have had a conversion done, it is not.

Wet cells are not legal unless vented outside the car , hydrogen gas is explosive the relay boxes a few mm away can spark , boom flash fire with acid spray , overcharge a wet cell , acid bath in the boot nice!!

always mount your battery with a layer of bulk rubber mat under it , vibrations kill batteries and skylines are rough riding on oz roads , clark rubber , 4 mm thick or so cost f all

  • 1 month later...

I thought i would bump this thread,

my car has chewed through 2 battery's in the past 12 months.

The first one was a wet cell battery (car came with it) which died due to me not driving for 4 weeks when i first got the car, i put it on charge with a trickle charger, came back to it and there was acid in the boot, not to bad because i caught it just in time, but could have been everywhere. Have neutralized the acid, and prevented further rust, but i have to respray/clean up the boot and behind the rear passenger seats. Just light spotting where the acid dripped.

And it has done it just before Christmas now, how convenient, usually it takes about 2/3 weeks before it goes low and i will usually drive the car before that happens, all it took was 1 week to go flat, so either my alternator is not working 100% or there is another cause?

The new battery will be a Optima.

While i have my boot completely emptied to respray during Christmas holidays, is there any electrical work i should be doing?

I will be putting a new Nismo fuel pump in too, will the standard wiring be up to the job?

Edited by Grimesy

Look for the fuel pump direct feed rewire thread, it gets rid of the fuel pump speed controller and shows you how to upgrade your wiring to suit the pump and give it the juice it needs. Now, the battery. I have had 6 batteries in 6 years, and its mostly to do with discharge and not bieng able to bring it back. I had invested in a C-TEK battery cycling charger and i have never had an issue since. I went to an optima spiral cell sealed battery, on its side so i could get a bigger one in there. You pay a little more for a spiral or a calcium battery, but imho, its worth the outlay for piece of mind, and the warranty that comes with it. remember to invest in a cyclic trickle charger though, will do your battery wonders mate.

Thanks for the post mate, so the optima's are fine to have laying down, well thats handy to know. Thought i was gonna have to mount it differently because they are a large battery. I already have a C TEK charger, usually have it on, just surprised after a week my battery was flat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As strange as this sounds (as they are fixed back), my Bride Xero CS seats are the most comfortable seats I've used.  I vote go genuine.  The only downside I've found is on very long drives, you can't reposition your body while driving. So even though its comfy, being locked in the same position eventually becomes uncomfortable. I find myself stopping every 3 or so hours to stretch my legs on long drives. 
    • You don't have to be bored driving a Camry. Not based on the way that a couple of f**king Ubereats/Didi/othersortofmethaddlednightshiftattheservicestationrecentimmmigrants were piloting them on the way to work this morning. f**k me dead!
    • FWIW, the Bride reps are really nice to sit in. The only complaint I have, other than the tear in my bolster, is that the velcro used to hold the backrest cushion in place, up under the headrest, is a little obvious and intrusive and could probably be done better. I don't know if that is a "feature" on the genuine ones also though. I haven't looked at a genuine one like the ones I have, only some of the older models. The other thing is, even though I bought the CF ones, I think the CF is really just decorative, over the top of the same FG as the normal seats. And so they really aren't light. Between the solidly built CF/FG seat, the steel frame in the recliner mechanism, and the solid-arse seat rail, they are probably heavier than even the stock seat. They are a serious lift to get in and out of the car.
    • Yes, and so the barest minimum power target is the one that makes the most sense. Massive power is fun, but you can only use it for 1.5s at a time, and only every now and then. Medium power levels allow you to enjoy the car far more often and for longer. 500 engine HP is just below 300 rwkW which is about the maximum that is sensible for any street car really. And for a 2.6L six, it will still leave you with a decent boost response and some sort of linearity of power delivery. As you get up towards 400rwkW the onset of power tends to be increasingly like a cliff and you need drag radials to keep the ground in proper contact with the car, and.... it's just not a car for driving around any more.
    • I already reached that conclusion myself after reading up a whole bunch and watching various videos from multiple sources. Don't know yet how I'd best manage that with the least amount of headache. Probably pulling the sump and just welding on a AN10 adapter or something. I also think it's healthy to take most opinions with a grain of salt, because experiences differ wildly and especially Aussies - when talking about RBs - don't know a world below 600whp drag builds. Personally I doubt I will ever take my R33 racing, so it's going to be a street car with the occasional spirited drive. Hence why I am (so far) under the impression that I'm going to be fine with a stock-ish engine for a while.
×
×
  • Create New...