Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what ballancer do the japs recommend or use as prefference.?

In regards to rev limit, do you mean set it real high so you dont hit it?

What happens if you manage to get it to spin to the higher limit, wouldnt that be worse?

Your better off setting I higher limiter then bouncing off it.. What Paul said is ideal though

Damn... how will I be cool without banging and flames n shit?

But I never really hit limiter, only by accident...

So theres nothing bad about it hey?

Well lets say you set the "Hard cut" at 8600 RPM, and you start pulling timing from 8300 RPM but aim to change gears at 8000 RPM it won't make a difference as you're never in that bit of the map anyway. If you do find yourself up there, the car will feel sluggish, so you change gears.

He has a RPM limiter for 0km/hr of 1000rpm, it's no his fault :)

ohhh, so its gonna be like that is it.... ;)

Really?!

RB30's love dirty big launches. Dial up 8000rpm, drop the clutch and get ready to grab 2nd before the limiter :D

You sir, are not right in the head. 8000rpm and drop the clutch?? That thing of yours must love the abuse.. and your car does too.

Well lets say you set the "Hard cut" at 8600 RPM, and you start pulling timing from 8300 RPM but aim to change gears at 8000 RPM it won't make a difference as you're never in that bit of the map anyway. If you do find yourself up there, the car will feel sluggish, so you change gears.

Get a real ECU. :) Motec randomiser and soft cut allows you to pick a RPM window to cut. So if you set a 300rpm window it could start to cut some cylinders a 8000 and increase to full cut by 8300rpm. The wider the window the more gradual the cut.

ohhh, so its gonna be like that is it.... ;)

Give me a fair run at powercruise and I may stop the trolling... maybe haha

Get a real ECU. :) Motec randomiser and soft cut allows you to pick a RPM window to cut. So if you set a 300rpm window it could start to cut some cylinders a 8000 and increase to full cut by 8300rpm. The wider the window the more gradual the cut.

I think he has Microtech? That's a real ECU *cough* carby *cough* just joke piggaz xoxo

Give me a fair run at powercruise and I may stop the trolling... maybe haha

I think he has Microtech? That's a real ECU *cough* carby *cough* just joke piggaz xoxo

I'm sorry but I have to disagree

Carbies do a much better job. True story

  • 2 months later...

Quick thread revival.. Just wondering how the OP went in the end? Did you fix your problem??

I will find out within 2 weeks when I hit the track, I machined front lip on balancer down to 1mm over belt height, and bead blasted all the shiny black anodising off the belt grooves. I went back to the strip and did the same things that spat it last time, it stayed on. Will know for sure after I get to track. Ill keep you posted

I dont know about the OP but my Ross balancer was spitting powersteering belts, we slotted the powersteering bracket so it came 5mm forward and now after 5 trackdays and 3 drag days its all good.

Mine is a 25/30 also, using the 25 bracket and pump.

I think it has something to do with either using the powersteering pump and bracket of a 25, 26 or a 30.

Or I could be totaly wrong.................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...