Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So what ballancer do the japs recommend or use as prefference.?

In regards to rev limit, do you mean set it real high so you dont hit it?

What happens if you manage to get it to spin to the higher limit, wouldnt that be worse?

Your better off setting I higher limiter then bouncing off it.. What Paul said is ideal though

Damn... how will I be cool without banging and flames n shit?

But I never really hit limiter, only by accident...

So theres nothing bad about it hey?

Well lets say you set the "Hard cut" at 8600 RPM, and you start pulling timing from 8300 RPM but aim to change gears at 8000 RPM it won't make a difference as you're never in that bit of the map anyway. If you do find yourself up there, the car will feel sluggish, so you change gears.

He has a RPM limiter for 0km/hr of 1000rpm, it's no his fault :)

ohhh, so its gonna be like that is it.... ;)

Really?!

RB30's love dirty big launches. Dial up 8000rpm, drop the clutch and get ready to grab 2nd before the limiter :D

You sir, are not right in the head. 8000rpm and drop the clutch?? That thing of yours must love the abuse.. and your car does too.

Well lets say you set the "Hard cut" at 8600 RPM, and you start pulling timing from 8300 RPM but aim to change gears at 8000 RPM it won't make a difference as you're never in that bit of the map anyway. If you do find yourself up there, the car will feel sluggish, so you change gears.

Get a real ECU. :) Motec randomiser and soft cut allows you to pick a RPM window to cut. So if you set a 300rpm window it could start to cut some cylinders a 8000 and increase to full cut by 8300rpm. The wider the window the more gradual the cut.

ohhh, so its gonna be like that is it.... ;)

Give me a fair run at powercruise and I may stop the trolling... maybe haha

Get a real ECU. :) Motec randomiser and soft cut allows you to pick a RPM window to cut. So if you set a 300rpm window it could start to cut some cylinders a 8000 and increase to full cut by 8300rpm. The wider the window the more gradual the cut.

I think he has Microtech? That's a real ECU *cough* carby *cough* just joke piggaz xoxo

Give me a fair run at powercruise and I may stop the trolling... maybe haha

I think he has Microtech? That's a real ECU *cough* carby *cough* just joke piggaz xoxo

I'm sorry but I have to disagree

Carbies do a much better job. True story

  • 2 months later...

Quick thread revival.. Just wondering how the OP went in the end? Did you fix your problem??

I will find out within 2 weeks when I hit the track, I machined front lip on balancer down to 1mm over belt height, and bead blasted all the shiny black anodising off the belt grooves. I went back to the strip and did the same things that spat it last time, it stayed on. Will know for sure after I get to track. Ill keep you posted

I dont know about the OP but my Ross balancer was spitting powersteering belts, we slotted the powersteering bracket so it came 5mm forward and now after 5 trackdays and 3 drag days its all good.

Mine is a 25/30 also, using the 25 bracket and pump.

I think it has something to do with either using the powersteering pump and bracket of a 25, 26 or a 30.

Or I could be totaly wrong.................

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He made that comment in my thread - In my case the vents ARE to lower engine heat, when the car is not moving, which is the only scenario I have heat problems with the aircon on, sitting in traffic, on 40C+ days. I can't imagine a scenario that this NC needs any at this point in time. I do not know if it will actually make my cooling when the car is MOVING worse, and I sincerely hope that won't be the case. If it does, well, um, f**k.
    • Nice, thanks. Thats why I was asking, there'd been a fair bit of discussion in the E90 world about vents and where it makes sense to put one (ie, over the filters is not great as that is inline or slightly behind the struts and in higher pressure area). I struggle with air flow and pressures. It sill weirds me out that a radiator in the boot can work. 
    • Neither really Vents, when located in the right place, will lower the engine bay "pressure", as air has a path to escape, thus lowering the engine bay pressure, thus.....improving the efficiency on the coolant stack (read: IC, condenser, radiator) This is why the Blits vented bonnet on my 33 worked so well, the vent was in the front 1/3 of the bonnet, which put it right after the radiator  If the vents are to far back toward the windscreen, which is a high pressure zone, it can actually force air into the engine bay, causing higher pressure and effectively loosing efficiency on the cooling stack, like the fab of raising the rear of the bonnet, which does allow heat to escape, but only when the car isn't moving  There's heaps of cool "fluid dynamics" info out there, but, I'll attach a video of a 'Merican joint that focuses on "Miatas" as I found it when looking into vents for mine, they explain it way better than me  
    • Poor bleeding. That stupid damping loop in the plumbing that should be completely replaced with a braided hose. Just the first 2 that come to mind.
    • Forgive the potentially silly question but are the vents for bay temps? I've been toying with how to reduce my bay temps because man, it gets HOT in there and a small subtle vent somewhere I think might help. Or, maybe they're to assist with just the intake temps? 
×
×
  • Create New...