Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I am just finishing my turbo build on my L24e R30 I was wondering where the best place to fit my air flow meter is I was thinking prob after the intercooler before the bov? Not 100% on this just want to make sure before I cut any intercooler pipes up.

Thanks in advance,

Paul

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403880-afm-position-with-turbo-build/
Share on other sites

i'm going to assume it's the stock L24E AFM, not sure how it would go under boost pressures so before the turbo.

Pretty sure it would shit itself under boost being a big flap and stuff,

thanks for the reply I didnt think of that only going to run 8psi untill i get a new ecu anyway will try it before turbo and see how it goes I just heard it can cause stalling and idle problems mounted their but thats prob with a bigger turbo then I am using anyway.

After seems to be the new trend. Ideally the afm goes in the bin and u get a good ecu

Let me clarify the above statement - disregard the first suggestion, and follow the second...

:)

The AFM on the R30 is useless, and has a sawtooth resistance curve. Not only that, it's got a rectangular mounting face which is a PITA.

If you must use an AFM, retro fit an SR or RB one (of course this would be if you fit an ECU with an AFM input).

Seriously, don't bother with the factory EFI if you're running a turbo conversion, it's just not worth the hassle.

As Ben says, the stock L24E AFM aint worth a pinch of pelican poop and further to that, the air box is a dudd too! It will all depend on what you have planned, but a stockish look to confuse the NSW law, you will have to have an air box of sorts. The DR30 air box is the best, along with a DR30/FJ20ET AFM would be my pick. The DR30 air box flows heeps more air than the L24E will.

Failing this, you're going to have to enclose a pod filter attached to your AFM.

The ECU is your biggest and foremost issue, as it has to have a feed for the AFM.

My suggestion is find an after market ECU, but it also depends on what state you have to pass registration in.

Cheers, D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What can't be done with a little bit of decking board or similar timber bolted to a hub flange via 2 wheel nuts is not worth talking about.
    • I noticed something. On the tps sensor and the sensor behind the adjustment screw is adjusted towards the far left. Are these screws supposed to be centered? (this sensor was in the same position before the tune as well)  Also attached a photo of where my car usually idles at when warm (sometimes a tiny bit above that). I think I might have screwed up the calculation and it might have better than I thought lol at 750rpm still not 650rpm though.      
    • So for both general interest of engine health, and to rule out any coolant/oil issues, I organised an oil analysis done on the 125,000klm oil Results below, all good, just a bit of fuel dilution which I'm not too worried about
    • This is actually a really good way of measuring what wheels fit. If only there was a similar measurement between hub face and suspension :p That said, it's probably pretty simple to actually measure it all with the wheel off the car for the rear. The front is a bit more complex but.. 
    • Being the top Google search result for R34 wheel-related inquiries, lemme throw down my experience. I calculated that 100mm from hub face to wheel face is about the perfect fitment for my ENR34 sedan.  I've been running 18x8.5s, ET35, with a 1" spacer. So, 8.5in to mm = 216mm. 216/2 = 108mm. 108-35 = 73mm. 73+ 25 (1" to mm) = 98mm.  If you wanna get close to this on dif widths, here are the offsets you'll want: 9" - ET around 15mm 9.5" - ET around 20mm 10" - you're crazy, but ET around 30mm All these should fit perfectly on a non-widebody, non-GTR Skyline. Note that it's probably the absolute max, and you're probably better off running a couple degrees of camber in this config, but it looks great, super flush.
×
×
  • Create New...