Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at extracting a bit more power out of GTR. After blowing the turbos at my first track day, I have done the following upgrades:

  • Installed Garrett -7's, dumps & front pipes
  • Vipec & tuned @ 260kw on 17psi (standard injectors)
  • FPR, pods, boost controller, exhaust already installed
  • Some other shit I can't remember :P

I would like to reach about 300-330kw safely, but more importantly I want the power to come on earlier. The turbo spools up between 3400rpm to 5000rpm. Is there any way to get it to kick in earlier? Aside from bigger injectors, what else would you guys recommend to get more power out of it without opening up the engine. Also, is there any advantageto switching to E85?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/403940-getting-more-power-out-of-7s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Im pretty sure if your getting full boost at 5k rpm then you have something wrong or you have to go and get a different tuner.

Do the basic shit!

Bigger injectors

Fuel pump

Dump pipes

Big cat

Good exhaust

Mainly GOOD TUNER!

No reason why you couldnt get 300 if you do all that!

I also forgot I have a walbro fuel pump. What's the benefit of E85? I also should've mentioned this car is for the track only if that makes any difference.

I'm trying to find a dyno sheet from the last tune hopefully that will explain things a bit better.

cam gears

injectors

boost

tune

stock airbox

Whilst there are a whole swag of other parts you could buy... spending anything more realistically than the above list with those turbos, will not give you worthwhile gains for the money you'll need to spend.

I make around 300kw on that boost with -7s, and that boost hits at around 4000rpm. But you wont do it with stock injectors at stock rail pressure and stock cat/catback. So get 550cc or similar injectors, and a 100 or 200 cell metal cat and 3 or 3.5in catback. Cam gears can make the turbos spool earlier, and if you change them you'll need to tune, so you might as well get them now and have it all tuned together.

-7 come with new adjustable actuators, but they may need more pre-load. IIRC 10mm is a good starting point.

  • 4 months later...

Car is getting ready to go for a tune. At this stage I can't really afford switching to E85, so I was going to get a tune with the following items:

  • Bigger injectors (Bosch 750cc)
  • adj cam gears
  • tune
  • tomei poncams

Firstly, which type poncams should I go for? Secondly, are Bosch injectors any good? They're only $480 from ebay. And thirdly, are the cams useful in this setup? I probably should've mentioned the car already has 3.5inch exhaust and modified cat. Are there any other mods that might be more useful?

Thanks guys.

I don't know that much about the cams, from what i've read the poncam type b's would be suitable. Wait for someone with more knowledge to have a say on that though...

As for the exhaust, you mentioned you have done the cat and catback, by "modified cat" do you mean gutted? Cos if its a track car maybe you could just run a straight pipe in its place. What about front pipes? Those would make a big difference.

For -7s, no need for cams of some sort, stock cams are more than enough. Just need to arm it with adjustable cam gears.

On pump, -7s will do 300-330-ish kw at wheels depending on boost, motor condition.

The poncams are going to give you very little for a lot of expense - they're really a waste. Also, you shouldn't need to modify a cat...

If you dont get ~320 on 20-22 psi, then you have some troubleshooting to do. Eg, drop exhaust to check if its restrictive, compression check, etc.

Car is getting ready to go for a tune. At this stage I can't really afford switching to E85, so I was going to get a tune with the following items:

  • Bigger injectors (Bosch 750cc)
  • adj cam gears
  • tune
  • tomei poncams

Firstly, which type poncams should I go for? Secondly, are Bosch injectors any good? They're only $480 from ebay. And thirdly, are the cams useful in this setup? I probably should've mentioned the car already has 3.5inch exhaust and modified cat. Are there any other mods that might be more useful?

Thanks guys.

ditch poncams, new Walbro pump is like $180-190 i think? shove that in, and you're E85 ready - you've got everything else, and if you're going to get injectors, just get some 1000's and be done with it, although i think you'ld be ok with E85 and 750's. And it's a track car, even more reason to go E85, so much more protection available via the fuel.

the "can't afford" line doens't really make any sense?

the "can't afford" line doens't really make any sense?

I keep forgetting they make injectors to drop in for E85. So fuel lines don't need to be changed for bigger fittings or anything? I was also told the tune costs about $1800 for a flex fuel.

I'll look into pricing, am keen to switch to e85 for sure.

Also, it has a walbro already installed :)

Doing a flex fuel tune can be done depending on the ECU you have,

ID 1000's are great for $700 odd delivered, Give Tu Speed a call, Don't forget you will need adapters to fit STD rail, Call Tuff car parts for a set.

stock dumps are good if you can your hands on R34 ones, FPR are really needed... So ive heard.

you say you have exhaust set up already, Make sure its a free flowing as possible, What are current specs do you know? Either way. Start with big injectors and a tune. Wind the boost up to 20 psi + and should be happy days.

I keep forgetting they make injectors to drop in for E85. So fuel lines don't need to be changed for bigger fittings or anything? I was also told the tune costs about $1800 for a flex fuel.

I'll look into pricing, am keen to switch to e85 for sure.

Also, it has a walbro already installed :)

The newer e85 400L walbro flows twice what your 342 walbro will. They are also designed to be e85 friendly and come with sealed connectors.

Bosch ev14 1000's can be had for $600 including the adapters and plug tails locally, with warranty. ;)

^ hence i don't understand the affordability aspect... you have to do these things anyway, or already have...

you don't need a 'flex fuel' tune - you said it's a track car, so just leave it on an E85 tune, simply.

'flex fuel' is ability to run any mixture of 98/E85 - required ethanol sensors etc, this is not at all needed from what the OP has posted. Just needs an E85 tune and happy days :)

Yeah you're probably right, spoke to a few tuners and looks like the way to go. Are the stock fuel lines an issue?

This is what I've costed for so far:

  • E85 tune - $1300
  • Bosch 1000cc injectors - $600
  • adj cam gears - not sure whether to get ISC $200 ones for tomei ones for $380
  • Walbro 400lt fuel pump - $275

Have I missed anything? Thanks for the help guys :)

Race Pace make some great adjustable cam gears, they modified the stock ones and from i understand, it's a more durable base to start from. You could go that route, you'd either have to see if they have any in stock, or just send them yours.

Red R racing probably could modify stock cam gears as well. No real $$ advantage over new, the ISC definitely seem cheaper than what i paid for RP to modify mine

stock lines are fine in terms of concerns about degredation etc (not an issue)

i'm not 100% if there is concerns with a 'capacity' issue? i'm wouldn't think there would be an issue - i made near 300rwkw on my prev GT-T with E85 and stock lines, 98 car. Still fine on high % ethanol after 4-5 years

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Because all parts that are put into your papers usually are assigned a badging if they did not come with one. So other people can just check that badging to tell if it is the parts your papes outline. But my pipe has NOTHING on it whatsoever. No idea why this even passed as a Mines pipe to begin with. I see this going two ways: -nobody cares and it's a non-issue, but that is unlikely -the pipe will just have to be assigned a bagding, for sake of argument, a Mines logo, and the papers corrected accordingly If it interests you I will post what the actual solution ended up being. All I care about is that it has to sound equal length and nobody can screw me later on because of a pipe being illegal.
    • The fasteners to the pipe are not subject to TÜV I guess, if we really start putting nuts and bolts through technical tests I'm going to hang the people responsible and then myself. Usually on a modern-ish EU normed car, you would just replace the pipe. Because if you start hacking away at it and welding new pieces on the cops will definitely find a reason to tow your car. That is just how it is sadly. On old cars and imports with no clear "standard" stuff like that won't matter too much. Most cops or inspectors probably won't even really know what they are looking at. But there is experts for this stuff even among cops, and some of them know the rules to a T and even have extensive knowledge about many vehicles. For "just a pipe" to be legal it usually is included in a set of parts, like a complete intake kit or a full exhaust. For example my exhaust needs to pass a noise test, meaning they have a standardized test track with a set of instructions and they run the car through there 3x for an average noise value that is 75dB(a) at point x of the test track. If it's above that, fail. For a turbo setup to be put in your papers you have to do dyno runs, emissions testing etc. So quite costly
    • Would this not be the same for the exhaust you've posted up?  If your exhaust volume and emissions are fine, why does the brand of pipe matter? 
    • The issue is more the fact that there is inspectors that deal with japanese cars a lot and they might know what a real Mines pipe looks like. And then they're gonna get antsy and not pass your car. But I'd have to talk to one of them about this, because you know as well as me that it's just a damn pipe and it effectively doesn't do anything. As I need to have my GT2860s and my exhaust setup (and the increase in HP) TÜV'd anyways maybe they can just correct the entry in the papers or assign a badge to the front pipe. I'm no expert either though, will inquire about this.     Thanks for the insight. Not sure if having a custom made pipe is good or not. Will find out in due time I suppose. Would be kind of funny if this was made in Germany though.
    • See this is a really tricky topic as technically the same rules apply to all cars but for cars but there is a difference. If you want to modify a car like the Skyline which never existed here you have a bit more freedom as they do not adhere to EU specs anyway. Any modification you do has to be in dividually checked anyway so as long as one of the inspectors think it's ok and within the TÜV ruleset you can get stuff like a top secret rear diffuser put in your papers. Which frankly would need a shitload of tests and certificates for EU spec cars, like a 2010 BMW M3 for example. But if you DO run these tests and all tests come out ok (safety stuff for the most part) there is no problem running such a part legally. It's just way too expensive to do for a single person on one car. The most touchy parts are emissions related mods, like an exhaust, turbos, air intakes. If it makes noise or alters the carbon emissions it's essentially illegal until you prove it's not. Meaning it doesn't exceed noise limits or have worse carbon emissions. I'd say for hoses if you replace them same same it doesn't matter what material they are or what brand you use. Same for nuts and bolts usually, they won't go and specifically check that your water hoses and some bolts are 100% OEM parts, that is nonsense.
×
×
  • Create New...