Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thanks chris.

ps. i meant to say chris above i dunno what happened :Oops: :(

LOL!! no probs, Clint32 is a mate of mine

Let me know how it goes, did you want me to scan teh template thing I made or are you just going to fill the whole thing with the one scourer

Chris

I bought 3 packets of three, and used all but one of them, so I guess they where the smaller ones. 8 scourers to fill it, 4 both sides.

So what have you done with the extra stockings mate?

Otherwise very good job I must say.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 7 months later...

Hi

I just got one of these GReddy catch cans sent to me. I was expecting a 500 ml one but got the dirty big 1L one... It has no removable bottom!! Anyway is it worth keeping & setting this thing up. Will it work at all if i shove like 50 ****ing scourers in the big mother, & once they go in they aint coming out *with the size of the holes on it*.

I've attached a pic of what catch can my m8 got. Anyway i dont know too much about catch cans except they should be baffled one way or another.

So yeh anyways, what should i do!

Thanks! :rant:

well the above one appears to be venting to the atmosphere, so watch it with the cops..

I got one recently off somebody for $60.. which was just a thermoflask, with a couple of brass fittings drilled in and bonded. In the nice blue looks nice and ricey, in fact more-so than the greddy, etc one. Has the scourers in the middle with the stocking.

Best part is you just unscrew the "lid" to empty it, and/or replace the insides. It's so simple it hurts.

For $60.. anything else seems a bit silly if it does the same thing.. if you had the time, making your own would be even more cost effective.

Which is the best setup to go with in installing it? between the crank cases, or from the PCV valve to turbo?? I have seen both setups around, and wondering whether there would be any advantage or disadvantage to each?

hmmmm so it's leaning towards i should sell this one i got at the moment..... By the way, when exactly will the catch can fill up at all.... & with a big 1 L can, it'd really take a lot of filling to filter anything anyway if i did have scourers in there right *PS im reallllllly drunk right know if im not making sense, like really really drunk i duno wtf is goin on*....

My suggestions for plumbing up a catch can. Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right

Pretty much the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements.

I call the choices ;

1. 100% plumb back

2. 50% plumb back

3. Zero% plumb back

Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can;

rb25detOpentoAtmosphere.jpg

The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can.

This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve;

rb25det50PlumbBack.jpg

It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh:

rb25det100PlumbBack.jpg

The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

PS, the PCV valve on RB25's is screwed into the RHS cam cover. For the plumback options (50% and 100%) you would need to move the PCV valve so it is between the catch can and the plenum.

For RB20's the PCV valve is screwed into the plenum and so it doesn't need to be moved.

Hope that helps:cheers:

U can upload photos to your SAU user gallery then grab the URL of the image & post them that way instead of using photobucket.

Ah yes but then I can't use it for other purposes. All uploaded now....:)

SK how do I move the PCV on an rb25det? your help would be appreciated

Too easy......

The PCV valve fits into a rubber grommet in the RHS cam cover and it has a hose clamped over it that goes to the inlet plenum. I simply take it out of the cam cover, shorten (cut) the hose and clamp it closer to the inlet plenum. Then I clamp the hose from the catch can over the other end of the PCV valve, the end that used to be in the cam cover. I then insert a bolt of the appropriate size into the now empty grommet in the side of the cam cover to block it off, as I don't need it.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Thanks for the diagrams SK, I'm thinking of installing the Zero% plumb back. My catch tank doesnt have a filter *only 2 valves* I thought I'd have the hose running in, then the 2nd valve running out to the sump. What would happen if i had this setup & the catch can wasnt baffled & didnt have scourers in there? Would oil just build up in the can & more blow by would go to the sump? If I had the can baffled with scourers then it would just leave air to go to the sump right?

The cam cover outlets and the sump are pretty much under equal pressure, so no air flows when you are driving. The oil drain to the sump only works when the engine is turned off. You build up oil during the day driving around and it slowly drains into the sump when you stop (overnight is the best). So you have an empty catch can. The scourers separate the oil from the air, the air either flows out to atmosphere or back into the inlet of the engine. You can buy a small filter from the usual auto outlets (Auto One, Auto Pro, Auto Barn, Repco, SupaCheap etc). Some guys use plastic fuel filters, cheap and you just chuck them away when they get dirty.

Hope that helps:cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The attached document is fine. I just downloaded & opened it.
    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
×
×
  • Create New...