Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A mate was moving my car off his front lawn, when he started it spluttered and stopped and now there is not a hint of it even wanting to fire.

I have checked my power fc sensor check and every thing looks fine, i changed the ignition module with no luck, the cas is showing 2-3 degree's when cranking and 0 if unplugged, have unplugged the tps, cas and afm with no difference but they all do should up as faulty in the sensor check screen, i can here the fuel pump prime but just to be sure i took the fuel line off and there is plenty of fuel flow.

From here i have no idea what to check next, any idea's would be great.

check for spark, check for fuel. If there is spark, and there is fuel coming to the rail, then check fuel pressure (pinch the return hose and see if that changes anything).

if u have spark, fuel, pressure, then put an LED/noid light on an injector plug and make sure uve got injector pulse.

if uve got everything, it should start and id be asking my mate what else he did other than moving it off the lawl :P

I know there is fuel there but not sure of pressure, i'll check that, as for what my mate did, he was as hung over as f**k and didnt even want to go out side so im sure he wasnt cutting hoops around the block lol, he wouldnt do it if he was sober.

  • 3 weeks later...

+1

Check spark and injector pulse

Check spark plugs

Check fuel pressure

Check timing belt

Check compression

in that order

I have checked everything except compression which im sure would not drop low enough on every cylinder that not 1 cylinder would fire and checking if the timing belt has slipped a tooth or two, the belt is still intact and tight.

Also tried a different ecu and once again not a hint of firing on any cylinder.

Any other suggestions?

Is the cas aligned with TDC compression stroke?

how do i check that?

I did replace the cas with another one i have here but its been sitting out in the car port for a while so im unsure if it works, the shaft has surface rust so im unsure what condition the internals would be in, it has not been in the rain tho.

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..sounds like when my cas broke..

Edited by SliverS2

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

Have you checked all the fuses, any major vacumn leaks? also you can take the CAS apart to check the shaft isnt broken..

No vac leaks, but even if there was one the car would still atleast fire on a couple of cylinders, have not checked fuse's or relays tho, will do that when i get some light.

Yes but wen u penetrate the opening u have to have it aligned correctly....

Theres a keyway in the exhaust cam as the cas must be aligned with TDC compression stroke otherwise the ecu has an incorrect reference.

Hard to explain but pull the cas out and have a look in the centre if the shaft. Then look inside the opening. U should notice a key way which should stop the cas being inserted incorrectly but if the keyway is missing its a little harder to align

It is in properly then, had to fiddle with it before it would slide into the D shaped keyway, untill it did the cas would not slide all the way in.

I think your cas might be broken inside, its happened to me before and i wondered why the car wouldnt start , then when i took it apart i could see the shaft was broken..

I also decided to not use the front timing belt cover anymore cause i wasnt sure if it was stuffing up the alignment..

Edited by SliverS2
  • 2 weeks later...

For those with the same problem check the fuse marked "starter" dont assume that this is for the starter motor and dont bother checking because the starter is working fine, its actually for a "starting circuit" which is apparently separate from the ecu, and even if it looks fine change it any way.

Also after flattening the battery many times trying to start it you have probably screwed your plugs and cleaning them wont help so get a new set!

Lessons learnt :/

  • 4 weeks later...

So it was just a fuse? If so you must not have checked ignition/fuel correctly, as it will only cut one of those out.

Apparently The fuse reduces the injector pulse to a point where it wont get enough fuel to fire but still enough to show a pulse on a multi meter.

No idea why its there or even if that info is correct but it does explain why everything checked out fine but it really wasnt.

Wow that is annoying, we had a similar problem where the wrong earth had been used for the ignitor, it could sink enough current to spark, but the spark was really really weak and wouldn't actually fire.

Had to strip the loom apart to find the proper earth when we wired it up again, took ages to figure that one out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...