Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In a recent flurry of purchases i have found myslef with a spare race seat.

Its a new fibreglass Velo Espirit race seat (no rails), yellow trim with back of seat painted black. Has lumbar and thigh supports, and if you are real mad punter then you can even buy the optional head restraints for it (ala Touring car style seat)

Seat is FIA and ADR approved, seat retails for $700-800, without rails Price change - $520....and im in Melb.) :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/40403-new-velo-race-seat-sold/
Share on other sites

Hey Roy,

Can you give me the measurement of the bottom of the seat (fabric side) to the bottom of where the rail would go (floor)

I need to get as low as possibly cause my bloody head hits the bloody sunroof which is crap.

I think you may remember, didn't we swap cars at Eastern Creek Moto concepts day?

I think you may remember, didn't we swap cars at Eastern Creek Moto concepts day?

Yeh that was me, i remember the head clearance thing too. :P

I have a set of MOMO rails for my other seat, they look similar to the Velo mounts...so ill use them and give you some measurements.

My thinking is that you will sit lower, even if you use the std rails with the Velo side mounts,

The mounts go up the sides of the seat, so in essence you are almost sitting on the rail itslef, with the bolts going into the side of the seat at about the mid point of your thigh when you are sitting in the seat??? Making sense?

Their website is down at the moment, bu tif you look at the top right of the front page you see an Espirit seat with the rails, a pic should help decipher my rambling

http://www.velo.com.au/

Ill post up the dimensions on Monday

Ok, so if you are using std R32 GTST rails, then the height of the bottom of the seat (fabrioc side where our bums contact) to the top of the seat rail is approx 35-40mm.

So the floorpan height to the top of the rail, (can measure on your own car) plus 35-40mm is the height you were asking about. (Floorpan to where your bum contact the bottom of the seat)

If you use aftermarket rails then you may be able to cut a few more mm from the height, but even modding the std rails to accept the Velo mounts/brackets, you are saving at least 3-4 inches (i dont have my car at the moment so cant measure up for you...otherwise i would)

Any help???

Oh and the seat actually weighs less then the carbon/kevlar Momo race seat i have, its not quite as rigid, but i was very impressed by the fact that its lighter then a $3,000 Momo race seat as was used by HRT.

Hey Roy how wide/big is the seat? You know me. . . im a big sorta fella and having trouble finding a seat that will fit me in, let alone sit me deep enough (the R32 GTR stock seats are nice, abit snug around the shoulders but the rest is fine).

Can you take a measurement on the inside where ya bum sits ?

The thinnest part of the base is 275mm, which is where the backrest meets the base.

Up towards the front of the base (under knees) is 380mm wide.

You would have to be pretty big not to fit the seat accross the shoulders...its normally the seatbase that causes dramas (or so i found)

....and if you EFT the money to me by COB Friday 21st May, then you can have the seat for $550 + postage....

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...