Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Gtt Neo Engine Turbo Id Has Garett A/r .60 M24 N1 On Com Houseing And No Id Plate Has Ceremic Wheel Comp And Exhaust.


Recommended Posts

ok i know there has been lots of people on here asking to id their turbo's and i'm new to this so bear with me.

On the com houseing it say

GARETT A/R .60 N 1

on a raised section inbetween the N and the 1 it says oy2a or could be OY24

there is no id plate on the turbo as this would make it easy.

i do know it is a ball bearing turbo as it has the 10mm nut/ bolt in the centre between the comp houseing and exhaust houseing.

On the back side of the exhaust houseing it has cast into it c op6

The waste gate has part number ASN82 33 in large painted numbers/stamp then under that has 1221A

I have also notised that on the back of the comp houseing is marked 1D416 maked on with a pen/paint

Any help would be great

Thanks Dave

that tells me alot.

I want to know if it is a t25 t28 gt30 or what the hell it is

If it is a n1 turbo.

what is the max boost it can cope with and how long they last for?

It's a standard r34 gtT turbo. It can run infinity boost. And the best thing is its legal! Yayayay

Now don't be a tart and accept that it's stock.

Inbeforetailor

Stock neo turbo.

It will be good for about 200 - 210rwkw give or take 10kw.

Max boost is limited by your imagination but history shows that it will live a longer life if you stick to 10-12psi and won't make much more (or any more power) if you lean on it harder but you will end up with turbine in the cat disease sooner rather than later.

It is also in your interests to spend some time searching on SAU. Any question you can think of has been asked and answered many times before particularly when it comes to stock turbos.

i thought the neo op6 was a hitachi like the other stock RB25 turbos?

since when does a neo run a garrett?

Yeah but what boost level?

i thought the neo op6 was a hitachi like the other stock RB25 turbos?

since when does a neo run a garrett?

All RB ball bearing turbos are Garrett

Watch-out-we-got-a-badass-over-here-meme.png

LOL

Ok from what you have all said it's just a std turbo, thats fine and will only handle max 12psi thats fine too, as i have the engine in a lc gtr torana. i took it to willowbank and shit the clutch and roll through for a 13.6 @101 so i know the car has a lot more in it as i stuffed the start and killed the clutch and was only running 8psi.

Current mods to engine are s1 pom cams std ecu 3" turbo back exhaust 100cel cat and free flow exhaust split fire coil packs and a 600x300x76 intercooler. soon to recive new clutch from extreme clutch part # kni25003-1r

From what i can make out the engine is out of a s3 as it had the red writing on the engine cover and the turbo has a metal twin blade comp wheel.

Dose anyone know who is the best to talk to about hi-flowing the turbo and fitting steel exhaust wheel.

Cool, I had an LC Torana as a paddock basher when I was 16.

There is plenty of usable power to be gained in an aftermarket ecu...PowerFC, Vipec/Link, Haltech etc.

Aftermarket turbos has lots of threads here in Forced Induction with the most commonly spoken about being Hypergear but there are a huge number of options so name a target power figure and that will narrow it down. Click the search button and read.

Lol very funny old timer, I missed that one when I looked myself. I did actually check first as I didnt want to make a dick of myself. Want not want whatever dick made, hooray lol.

thanks tho, its something I wanted to know :P

Lol very funny old timer, I missed that one when I looked myself. I did actually check first as I didnt want to make a dick of myself. Want not want whatever dick made, hooray lol.

thanks tho, its something I wanted to know :P

lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
    • Don't do what I did, use a 300000km old housing with billet gears. The old pump probably was clearanced with saw dust, Edward Lee's special engine treatment sauce and a good odo wind back. I had oil pressure issues, then replaces pump with new housing, new billet gears and 2x track day later binned a motor due to other oil related issues due to a previous engine builder. Long story short, buy a M2 or 3 or 4 N55/S55/S58 and enjoy life.
    • Yeah. "New pump" does not have to mean "massive pump".
    • Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more.   Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.
×
×
  • Create New...