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Rb26 Wont Start! Dont Know What Else To Try.


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Just trying to start RB26 after finishing the wiring for conversion into S14 200sx.

It has got me stumped, and here's why.

I have fuel. Fuel pump pumps, the petrol is a week old optimax after flushing out the tank, the lines are arround the right way engine side and injectors are clicking. Remove spark plugs and they seem to be wet.

I have spark. And all new plugs

I have good compression across all cyl (For an un run-in engine that is)

I have checked the setting of the timing with the cam wheels against the backing plate and the harmonic balancer against the lower cover mark.

If I remove the CAS, then turn it, I hear the injectors clicking, fuel pump activate and can test for spark.

Its running std injectors, on a std r32 gtr ecu, and cranks over fine.

AFMs are unplugged, Wiring seems to be fine (ecu recieving the start signal too).

Alot of the vacuum lines arnt linked up yet but it doesnt even sound like it wants to start.

EcuTalk shows no ECU error codes. (Code 55). Also tried starting with R33 GTR ecu too.

The only thing that comes to mind is not enough fuel pressure or no cold start enrichment.

What the hell have I missed?!?

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Does it even pop or show any hint of firing?

If it doesn't i'd check for spark. Is your ignitor plugged in properly, coil packs plugged in properly?

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You said afms are unplugged... stock ecu won't like that.

I didnt think it mattered if they were unplugged. It should idle perfectly with them unplugged. My R33 did.

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To the next asshole who uses aerostart im gona hunt u down and throw a can of aerostart at u lolol plug in the afm wont run without them also chek ur earthing

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To the next asshole who uses aerostart im gona hunt u down and throw a can of aerostart at u lolol plug in the afm wont run without them also chek ur earthing

I use aerostart all the time. It's a reasonably good/fast diagnostic tool for an injector problem when you have pulse and spark but want to quickly find out if the injectors are locked without having to remove them.

Come at me bro! :nyaanyaa:

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ok, definitely got fuel (absolutely flooded the bajesus out of it, had to dump the oil.)

3 injectors stuck closed. had them cleaned, now all back together. Fresh oil.

AFMS connected.

Added extra gounds everywhere (to ignitor pack and spark plug rail). Have good spark.

Get a pop every now and again. Still wont kick over...

Set TPS to .5v when closed.

Lined up harmonic balancer to mark on lower cover to 0 degrees (Ross balancer), and the cam marks lined up too on the upper plate (about 10 oclock on in gear and 2 oclock on ex gear), and also visually checked, when cyl 1 is TDC, both in and ex valves are closed.

CAS lined up dead centre in the holes

Still havnt got the cooler piping connected as it hast been made yet. (I want the engine to kick over before I keep going).

No Cam cover vent / PCV hoses connected yet. Vacuum lines from Air chamber under plenum (the ones that go to the BOV, boost solenoid, and carbon cannister) not connected.

I dont want it to idle perfect, just to start so that I know the conversion wiring is done so i can wrap it.

Its got me f*cked!

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Prime the fuel pump, then leave it disconnected, also leave the afms disconnected if the cooler piping is not sealed tight. See if it starts.

Put up a pic of the cam timing

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...AFMS connected....

...Still havnt got the cooler piping connected as it hast been made yet. (I want the engine to kick over before I keep going).

No Cam cover vent / PCV hoses connected yet. Vacuum lines from Air chamber under plenum (the ones that go to the BOV, boost solenoid, and carbon cannister) not connected.

WTF??????

Put the @#$%$# thing together, the way it was designed to be when running. Then you might stand a chance of it starting.

And if you think you have flooded the engine, use WOT while starting - don't release the throttle until you are certain the engine is actually running.

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  • 5 weeks later...

ok, there's $50 paypal money to whoever gives me the winning solution to get the fu*ker started. This is really starting to sh*t me.

I have fuel - plugs are wet after trying to start just now

All intercooler piping is on and AFMs connected.

I have spark - when I take the plug out and rest on the rocker cover, I see the spark. Have just tried a brand new set of BCPR6ES's.

I have timing - used a timing light and set the CAS to base timing and is set to 20 BTDC on the harmonic balancer.

All vacuum lines have be plugged up (for BOV , wastegates, etc)

PCV breathers connected.

I have compression ~150 - 160 psi across all cylinders (bear in mind the engine is still yet to be run in)

Every now and again I get a backfire or splutter. Tried start ya bastard and got a big backfire then nothing.

Could the spark be too weak under compression (hence the wet plugs)?

Tried to start while jumping from my daily so plenty of power.

I seem to have everything needed for a functioning engine.... but ignition.

Im ready to chuck this thing in the bin.

This was a parts bin special so all pieces came from different places and is untested by myself (CAS, ignitor, coils, etc.). Dont really want to start buying spares of everything so is there something that will give these symptoms?

Im at wits end...

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Can i make a suggestion, you sure the ecu is fine, sounds like it's opening all the injectors at once if its flooding like you said.

Had the same thing happen and the ecu was buggered,

Could be possible, but tried 2 ECUs, both R32 GTR & R33 GTR.

I could have it diagnosed in one hour but it would cost you more than $50.

If you are at wits end, take it somewhere that can diagnose it for you

I would have already if the car was rolling... but in its current state, wouldn't even make it onto the back of a tow truck. I dont want to put it back together until I know the engine / wiring all works.

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  • 7 years later...

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