Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Due to parting out my car this engine is for sale seperately. Engine will be removed tomorrow or during the week.

It comes with HKS Forged pistons. This will be confirmed when the sump is removed for inspection. They are definently not standard as they don't have 5mm ish round raised circle on them when viewed though the spark plug hole. I imported the car with this engine in it. The spec sheet mentioned HKS pistons. This can be believed as everything else listed replicated what was on the car.

Engine has never had larger injectors fitted therefore has never exceeded 300rwkw. Everyone knows these engine will last forever when run under 300rwkw and boosted around 15psi with a good tune. I drove it with 280rwkw just to be safe as engine rebuilds are the nemesis of GTR owners.

I cannot confirm yet if it has a N1 oil pump or R33 crank. It may even be an R33 GTR motor? Rods are also unknown? Never saw the oil light flash or gauge drop due to surge.

Cams are standard and fitted with adjustable cam gears fitted.

Engine has never been overheated in my ownership.

Rocker covers and cam cover have been painted in 2 pack metallic silver.

All electronics/accesories attached to the engine will be included.

-5 turbos have limited km's with adjustable actuators. Willing to sell these seperately.

With these turbos I drove it for a year. After that the car spent a year EPA'd noise (was cleared) and then driven a few times the following year. Last 2 years it has been de-reg'd just sitting in my shed. Started occasionally.

Front diff/sump included.

If bought in the next few weeks with the turbos I'll throw in some custom made 3 inch dumps plus twin 3 inch front pipes merged to 3.5 inch pipe with 3 inch flange.

Happy to do a comp or leakdown test after removal. Sold the gearbox before I had a chance to check it.

Need to sell these. I don't want them taking up space!

Pictures will be added during the week not that what an engine looks like matters. Its the condition inside that counts!

$5000ono for engine and turbos. Can supply everything needed to do a GTSt conversion for a few extra dollars. I've done the conversion before.

Also have a OS Giken Triple plate clutch in great condition. Prob 90% meat left $1500 - These are $3000 new and never ever thought of slipping.

Located in southern suburbs of Melbourne. Happy to feight but please organise you own prices.

Edited by Rowdyr32
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry guys. Forgot about this.

Engine has been just sitting in the car for months unbolted awaiting an engine crane.

Also I'm chasing $1300 for the turbos. Their in perfect condition.

Now there's a bit of interest in the engine I might lift it out over the weekend.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   anyone know where I can pick one of these up for a reasonable price? I just resprayed my rear trunk due to fuel stain and my new muse spat install.    added a photo for some content 🤣👍   thanks 
    • Consider a 35 too...
    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
×
×
  • Create New...